Back to the original question, why did 10mm make a comeback? Because it is the cartridge that all semi-auto cartridges want to be, but can't be. It has it all, velocity, energy, easy to reload, versatility of bullets.
It just took awhile to get over the bad wrap that the FBI gave it over recoil. I have never found it objectionable. Like I said in the beginning they all aspire to achieve 10mm ballistics but without recoil, laws of physics won't allow.

50BMG, is your full length guide rod aluminum??? if it is that could problematic, i would change to steel or stainless steel. i don't know if anyone has mentioned it yet, but if you want to slow down the recoil impulse you need to look into upping your mainspring (hammer spring) and going to a square/flat bottom firing pin stop, if you have little to no radius your slide less mechanical advantage. your recoil spring has more to do with returning your slide into battery than it has to do with slowing the recoil impulse. i read a write up a guy did running a heavy mainspring and flat bottomed firing pin stop and no recoil spring at all, just to prove that the recoil springs main job wasn't to slow the slide. My Delta Elite that I had a full custom rebuild on and cut down to commander length is running a 26lb. recoil spring and a 23lb. mainspring and a firing pin stop with very little radius. hope this helps

Quote from: HoytFlinger on June 09 2018 12:01:37 PM MDT
Bud's does hundreds of transfers a week. The problem is the one guy unpacking that doesn't work every Saturday. FedEx dropped off 250 rounds of Fiocchi ammo a couple of hours ago. Thought I was going to have a great day at the range. Oh well.

Good weekend to start reloading

Quote from: Mistman on May 23 2018 08:08:14 AM MDT
I bought one new in '15. Did the hand racking 100's of times, used only the supplied oil. Mine locked up after 12 rounds fired, it galled pretty badly. Sent it back, they lapped it but the rails were still nasty looking. Seemed to function alright after that though the slide stop would engage all the time. While trying to work through that the
firing pin stop fell out. I got a little frustrated w/it and let it go. I have a bunch of 1911's, only 1 10mm now, a Springfield custom shop gun. I don't have any DW 1911's, I hear good things about them but have no interest in trying again.

mistman did you discuss your issues over in the 1911 forum in the DW section??? If you did I'll get the popcorn out!!!

I'm surprised the 1095 isn't gaining much traction here, it's such a simple design and mine is working so well. I think we should take up a collection and buy a 1095 for azcrawler, in appreciation for for warning us about Tactical Edge. It really changed my thinking about Hi-Point

The galling issue is not as frequent as it was in 2015 & 16 but it occasionally Still raises it's ugly head, I spoke with the gunsmith that worked on mine he said that DW was using a bead blasting media that was not giving a surface that was needed for sliding parts, also when it came back from DW  you could see faint machining marks after they polished the rails, indicating to me that they should have been polished all the way out before bead-blasting. I work in the petro/chem industry, many years ago a engineer came up with the bright idea to replace all the studs and nuts to close pressure vessels from carbon steel (a very high grade) to stainless steel, the next shutdown we were cutting all the galled stainless studs off and replacing them with carbon steel. Stainless can be a tricky material. I still prefer a forged carbon steel knife, there is no magic alloy to replace good old fashioned forged carbon steel

I have an RZ-10, I bought brand new and I am pleased with (now). The model I have is the brushed stainless one, the issue I have is the tight fit of the raw in the white stainless steel, and not enough polishing of the rails before bead blasting, leads to the slide locking to the frame occasionally, how often I can't say. Back in 2015 when I bought mine the issue raised it's head quite often over in the 1911 forum. I hand racked mine a 1000 times empty, cleaning it multiple times along the way, it was oiled with Dan Wesson supplied oil. Somewhere along the way it got very sluggish returning to battery, upon stripping you could see faint burrs raising. I returned it to DW they polished the rails and did a number of modifications on their dime. It has run flawlessly since it's return, it has had a hiccup with with reloads that came out of my G20, the DW chamber was to tight to accept the Glock bulge, I now perform a push through sizing as my as my first step in reloading, problem solved. The only thing I wish they included is front strap checkering (as previously stated) I have old school Pachmayer  wrap around grips on it for now, eventually I will get it checkered (to many gun projects). In conclusion I would recommend the RZ-10 finished in their Duty Treat (I think that is their current finish) as they have had no issues with galling with those models. If you prefer the brushed stainless steel model, I would suggest hand racking and cleaning before shooting, run it soaking wet during break-in, clean it often. And by all that is Holy DON'T bring up galling over at the Dan Wesson Forum   

Quote from: Bat Rastard on May 11 2018 05:11:51 AM MDT
Any problems with plated bullets going that fast?

I didn't see any trouble running over the chrony, I'll have to try some for accuracy, and shoot some into wet news print to see how they hold up.

The trigger needs help, when I scaled the trigger I held the hook of the scale on tip of the trigger, it gave a false impression of the trigger pull. I am going to replace the trigger with a flat one with adjustable overtravel. It has quite a bit of overtravel. I didn't expect a Ed Brown trigger pull on a $340 gun, I think there is room for improvement. Overall I think it is performing well, I don't usually put just 10 rounds of factory ammo through a new gun and then start feeding it handloads. It should have choked on my slow loads, those came out of my Glock from before I started doing push through sizing. The Glock smiles can make my tighter guns choke. The feed ramp could use polishing, it hasn't affected feeding, just needs polishing, and you asked. And I am trying to give a accurate, unbiased review. I have seen nothing that's a deal breaker. Yes I would like a D/I AR style also. I really wanted to break my prejudice about blowback 10mm carbines.

Here's my second impression of the Hi-Point 1095TS carbine, as far as stripping and cleaning goes, this is not a military firearm, there are to many steps and parts to remove. It's not to difficult, seeing as I am not in any military organization and I am not a armchair operator, the stripping procedure doesn't bother me. Now for the first range report, I didn't put a lot of rounds through it, as I was working up some upper end loads. Hot for me as I just a chronograph for Christmas. I shot the same loads through my Sig P220 as a control to base my results against. I didn't take time to figure extreme spread or deviation as this was my first using a chronograph CED M2. Both firearms functioned flawlessly.
1) Sig P220
   Sig 180gr. FMJ
   1221fps.
   1212fps.
   1206fps.
   1228fps.
   1218fps.
1.2) H/P 1095
    Sig 180gr. FMJ
   1405fps.
   1391fps.
   1401fps.
   1369fps.
   1372fps.
2) Sig P220
    Berry's plated 180gr./ 4.7grs. Bullseye volume measured by Hornady lock n load.
    899fps.
    936fps.
    947fps.
    947fps.
    947fps.
2.2) Hi-Point 1095
    Berry's plated same load.
    1114fps.
    1065fps.
    1068fps.
    1095fps.
    1055fps.
3) Sig P220
    Gallant bullets 180gr. Powder coated/ 9.0grs. 800X hand weighed +/- 0 grs.
    1315fps.
    1313fps.
    1313fps.
    1301fps.
    1320fps.
3.2) Hi-Point 1095
    Gallant bullets 180gr. Same load
    1558fps.
    1552fps.
    1525fps.
    1583fps.
    1514fps.
4) Sig P220
    Rainier plated 180gr. HP/ 9.0grs. 800X
    1311fps.
    1305fps.
    1272fps.
    1313fps.
4.2) Hi-Point 1095
    Rainier 180gr. Same load
    1478fps.
    1490fps.
    1541fps.
    1510fps.
    1442fps.
5) Sig P220
    Gallant 180gr. Powder coated/ 9.0grs. Power Pistol
    1307fps.
    1315fps.
    1332fps.
    1300fps.
    1295fps.
5.2) Hi-Point 1095
    Gallant 180gr. Same load
    1519fps.
    1501fps.
    1512fps.
    1487fps.
    1500fps.
6) Sig P220
    Rainier plated 180gr. HP/ 9.0grs. Power Pistol
    1265fps.
    1281fps.
    1292fps.
    1279fps.
    1281fps.
6.2) Hi-Point 1095
    Rainier 180gr. Same load
    1772fps. (Error I think)
    1432fps.
    1420fps.
    1419fps.
    1388fps.
I don't know what happened with the 1772fps. Shot all loads were hand weighed. I was aiming for 1250fps. Out of a pistol load, I think this is about as hot as I should load plated and powder coated bullets. The Sig looks a little more consistent. The target was set up at 10yds. The chronograph was set up at 10ft. When I paid attention the 1095 was shooting 1 hole @ 10yds. The next time I will test for accuracy at realistic carbine ranges, with a red dot and optics. Thanks for reading, it's been lengthy
   

I have 5-10mm's, 2-629 hunters, 1-357mag M&P 340, and 1 Freedom Arms 475 Linebaugh. When you have the need to go big John Linebaugh gets the job done. If you want a surprise every time you pull the trigger get an airweight snubnose 357. I have no desire for a S&W 500, one of my Apprentices had the dreaded double tap

I have some that measure as low as .977 most are in mid .98s. I have never bought new empty brass does anybody produce in specs brass?

Quote from: The_Shadow on April 17 2018 09:45:55 AM MDT
With most straight wall semi auto cases they tend to get shorter, where cartridges like 357 and 44 using heavy roll crimps do stretch a little from the crimp pulling when fired.

Bottle neck casings do stretch down in the lower web section, the resizing pushes the tapered neck area back and lengthening the case. 
This is due to loose chamber fitment of the cartridge being expanded to fill out the chambers when fired. (semi auto mostly) (the bolt action guys use dedicated cases & neck sizing only to reduce over working and stretching)

Here is an example of rifle case stretching

well that explains why I have never had any 10mm brass that I needed to trim. I was wondering if they were all trimmed to the same length might I get a more uniform COAL. My reloads haven't been to bad in the past, but I have never loaded hot in the past.

I've tried searching this with no luck, what do you guys trim your brass to, I know .992 is max. none of my brass is at .992 but it is all over the map. So what would you consider the minimum to still get good head spacing. I have been reloading 10mm a long time my brass has never stretched to .992 so I have trimmed it, but I am going to load some hot stuff for the first time and I thought I might want to start with a uniform length of brass. Thanks

AZ, I have been followings your tales of woe with great intrest, It is very disappointing to hear of these kind of malfunctions, thanks for all of your work testing this firearm, it will help other members avoid the frustration of dealing with this company. I hope they can get it right so we can see what kind of accuracy and long term functionality this firearm is capable of.