I read a thread some time ago(I believe it was on a knife forum) where they tested a number of products, and really all I remember from it was the wd40 specialist did really well at preventing corrosion.

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Will, saami spec for the case mouth is .423, so, I'd go a thou, maybe two max, under that, at the mouth. 421 should be fine, but it's too much for what I'd do. I think people crimp far too hard. Just about everyone crimps 44 Magnum WAY harder than I crimp my 454 casull, and I load it pretty hot. Even there I'm at about 2 thou crimp. Never had any bullet displacement there

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You don't need to crimp a ton, you want a thou or two of taper crimp. Really, just enough to bring the case mouth back to spec. You don't need or want a ton of crimp

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I don't think it's a misprint, I think it's simply the fear of being sued, probably coupled with people wanting to conserve powder

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I've used federal standard pistol plenty in 10mm.

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I've seen brass turn black. I've cleaned it up in a wet tumbler with stainless chips and citric acid(aka lemi shine, et Al. Takes a bit.

Good to see another 9x25 fellow!

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So. I've been fighting some feeding issues. pistol is a rock island 10mm double stack with a custom reamed bar-sto barrel. every once in a while a round wont QUITE chamber, and usually a soft bump of my palm sorts out the issue. I believe its either the neck area bulging during seating, or an issue with the shoulder. I believe the neck is the issue, but I decided I'd measure from the case base to the shoulder, since its an easily measurable dimension. My chamber is a bit unique, and im trying to get the gun to run in uspsa open, and shes almost done! just this last small issue!

A bit of fore-word. cases were decapped using a universal decap die before first measurement. Dies are Dillon carbide dies, press is a Dillon 650. cases were measured and ran through the press individually, measured before and after each step, measured 3 times, making sure the calipers reset to zero, and making sure I got the same number three times. I used a forester datum dial kit, with the .400 hole. dies, toolhead, and the press is all secure. the calipers never touched the table, and were held securely in my off hand while using the press.

after looking at how wildly the shoulder is moving, and not going back anywhere near the same number. I'm coming to the conclusion that the .400 bore is just too large, since it sits at the very bottom edge of the shoulder. before I order a custom dial from forster, I just want to verify that I'm coming to a valid conclusion. I believe the diameter I need would be .380 looking at the chamber drawings?

since i cant get the image small enough, I'll link the google sheet.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1YONw4w140vEnJ1M-zXjY8VJ1KPP4P_6UOJtNr4ZJD3U/edit?usp=sharing

Alright, I think I found probably the actual cause. The neck is buckling. I just loaded 158 rounds, and 33 are buckled, preventing them from plunking correctly. I ran these through the seat and crimp stations on the press and reran them through the 10mm bulge buster. The only two things I can think of are, I'm not flaring enough, or crimping too hard. I know I definitely could use more flare, since I pretty much have to hold the bullets as they go into the die. I remember Randy talking about buckling of the necks being an issue they had way back when. I might back my crimp off a tad and flare a bit more.

Would a 357 sig factory crimp die(if such die exists) iron out the buckles?

I'd like to keep my load in the 15 grain area, since I hear charge weight and gas volume are proportional and boy is she a sweet shooter with this current load. Just... Loud[emoji1787]

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Quote from: The_Shadow on February 01 2021 12:34:39 PM MST
Glad the pass through sizing helped, It help in mine.
Have you tried Hodgdon Longshot powder ?  Accurate #9 ?

Just be sure the ogive of the bullet isn't radiused to be loose as seated and crimped

I haven't. I know I have longshot on hand.

A quick update, I'm pretty sure pass through sizing fixed my issue. I had to switch bullets because I wasn't able to get my normal 115 gr jhp, so I went with a 115 jhp, so this run I made was mostly just a chrono check to make sure they still made major. I pass through sized all my cases, sized and deprimed, wet tumbled, let air dry a few days, then loaded up 10 with 17.3 grains h110 at an oal of 1.170. after loading, I had one case that didn't quite drop in, but with the tiniest amount of pressure, would fully seat, so I ran it back through the fcd sans guts again and it dropped in. But I don't really like the idea of pass through sizing live ammo, so I hope that was maybe just a case that got missed somehow .

A side question. This load averaged 1513 fps, which is a power factor of 173, but with an es of about 70 fps, the same load with the 115 jhp ran an average of 1550 ish with an es in the low teens. With major pf being 165, I'm tempted to try and get the load closer to 168-170 pf, but fear I'm already on the low side for h110, as I had to switch to magnum primers to get a clean burn, and I tried vv 3n37 and boy could I tell it wasn't working the comp NEAR as well as the h110. I also fear the reason the load with this new bullet is so erratic is because the h110 is on the low side, but the cases aren't sooty. Thoughts? Run it as is? Reduce the charge? Try another powder to get closer to major?

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Quote from: BEEMER! on January 21 2021 10:37:12 AM MST

Quote from: nhyrum on January 20 2021 07:17:49 PM MST

Quote from: BEEMER! on January 20 2021 04:02:33 PM MST


Why not just use your barrel for a gauge?  I have always done that and it has never been a big problem.

Because taking the barrel out of the gun isn't easy, it's not the kind that just a flick of a lever and the slide comes off, yank the spring out and the barrel just pulls out. The comp on the front means the barrel has to go out the front, non captive recoil spring, etc. Ideally, I'd have a 100 round block.





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I apologize for not reading your post well enough to see you have a comp.

Have you tried talking to whoever chambered it to cut you one?  He should have the reamer yet I would think.

Hey, no worries. I do currently use the barrel as a gauge, but I'd rather have a separate gauge. I'll see about contacting the smith, that's not a bad idea.

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Quote from: therognp on January 20 2021 02:20:52 PM MST
I would suppose you could send them a cerrosafe casting of the chamber . They would have the exact within time dimensions of your chamber. Brass can vary a bit due to hardening and springbuck.  I believe Midway and Rotometal both sell Cerrosafe.

I kinda wonder if I could just send them the barrel and have them do it. That way, I can't screw anything up.

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Quote from: BEEMER! on January 20 2021 04:02:33 PM MST


Why not just use your barrel for a gauge?  I have always done that and it has never been a big problem.

Because taking the barrel out of the gun isn't easy, it's not the kind that just a flick of a lever and the slide comes off, yank the spring out and the barrel just pulls out. The comp on the front means the barrel has to go out the front, non captive recoil spring, etc. Ideally, I'd have a 100 round block.



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Quote from: Mike D on January 18 2021 02:40:23 PM MST

Wilson will make you a gauge based off fired and resized cases. I recently had the make me one for 10mm magnum.

Cost and turn around time seemed reasonable.


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I'll give them a go. Did you have to contact them directly about it?

Quote from: The_Shadow on January 17 2021 10:16:47 AM MST

Also as mentioned I run all cases through the LEE 10mm FCD with the guts removed as a pass through setup...ie "Bulge Buster".  That step has been very helpful with 10mm, 9x25, 40S&W & 357Sig. 

Do you have to have the bulge buster kit? Or can I just have the fcd sans guts, and use, say, the stem and cup from a pass through bullet sizer?

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Neither Dillon, nor Wilson make a 9x25 case gauge. Plus, with my chamber being non standard, they would be of no use to me. Whidden can customize gauges, but they need one to be supplied to them. I'm thinking this will be the type of endeavor where I'm either have to send them a few pieces of fired brass or the barrel in and have one made from scratch.

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