I have both a Caldwell and Competition Electronics Pro ChronoDLX. Hands down the Pro ChoronDLX is my favorite. It always connects via bluetooth and it is very rare when it doesn't record a shot, can't say how frustrating my Caldwell is. I can neither confirm nor deny that my Caldwell has had a flesh wound down the edge of the unit, however it didn't make the connectivity any better or worse.

For replacement rods I have heard of individuals using bamboo skewers. From what I've heard if you hit the original aluminum rods you will most likely knock the chrono off of the stand onto the ground where the bamboo only breaks.

I add a cap full of NuFinish polish to my corncob media ever so often and I don't have any issues with dust.  The lack of dust is a side effect of using the NuFinish polish, not the reason for its use.

Stumbled across a Lone Wolf LW-1040N for the G20 this weekend.  I have been collecting 40S&W brass from the range for a while and wasn't sure what I was going to do with it, but for $65 (after taxes) I couldn't pass the barrel up.  It was an impulse buy without any research, other than my knowledge that Lone Wolf produces pretty good aftermarket barrels.  Plan on loading up some 180gr Berry's RS bullets in front of WSF powder.  More to come on load development.

Here is a link from The High Road forum.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-alliant-sport-pistol.816514/page-4#post-10559773

Congrats on the new 10mm pistol!!!  Sounds like you are addicted.

Quote from: The_Shadow on July 07 2018 08:43:35 PM MDT
Yes, I also wonder about longevity and long term storage.  These new catalyst primers may be why we are seeing the yellow priming mix coming loose in some of the newer pull downs.  Hitting the kinetic puller has knocked some of the priming pellets loose

Usually whenever I have to unload a round at my bench it is due to failing the gauge check, which that case is bulged and never used again.  After your observation I will make sure that I don't ever use a primer after pulling the bullet with my kinetic puller.  Primers are cheap enough to discard vs. having a dud round at the range.

Thanks for all of the info above.

Thanks for the data.

Beam scale explains the results.  I use an RCBS beam scale that I purchased back in the early 80s. 

Thanks.

Never used Longshot before.  Did you weight each charge or did you use a powder measure?  Very close spread on the velocities.

Quote from: sqlbullet on June 27 2018 08:36:01 AM MDT

http://www.massreloading.com/reading_pressure_signs.html

Have this site bookmarked and use it, probably learned about it from here.  Great info.

Drove the wrong vehicle to the range so I didn't have my chrono with me.  I was wondering if I was pushing them too hard.

Quote from: CurtisM on June 19 2018 05:37:03 PM MDT
Working up a load using 180gr Berry's RS, CCI 300, and Alliant BE-86.  10 rounds of each powder weight starting weight with 8.4gr working up 0,1 increments to 8.8gr.  Hope to make it out to the range this Friday with the G20 to test them.

Don't know what the issue is, however none of these loads would hit the bullseye! 

I shot some of my other rounds with the only difference is the powder is 6.7gr of Winchester WSF.  No issues with this load.

Working up a load using 180gr Berry's RS, CCI 300, and Alliant BE-86.  10 rounds of each powder weight starting weight with 8.4gr working up 0,1 increments to 8.8gr.  Hope to make it out to the range this Friday with the G20 to test them.

The Military Arms Channel on Youtube had a video on the firing pin issue recently, don't have the link.

Edit;  Didn't see the link in your post, you have the one I was talking about.

What I purchased some once-fired brass for was approx .16 cents a piece.  I have since looked at the Starline Brass website and you can get new for just about the same price.  https://www.starlinebrass.com/brass-cases/10MM-Auto-Brass/

Shop around!