Plan is to continue writing everything down while I am at the range, the MTM hand-loaders log looks like it will be way better than my spiral notebook, then copy everything to the computer which is also backed up so if my computer crashes or SHTF I will still have my data. I found the 10mm Stat's google doc that should fit my needs for all my preferred loads.

I have been reloading for almost 2 years now and have been writing everything down in a notebook journal style. While I only have to keep track of my .270, 10mm, and now 6.5 Grendel, I think I can organize my data better with Excel spreadsheets. I was wondering if anyone has any handy templates they use or know of so I don't have to reinvent the wheel.

Took down two deer with Buffalo Bore 180 Grain hollow point this season. Shot placement on the first was abysmal on the first when I jerked the trigger and required a second shot, however the bullet went through several bones without issue. Second deer was right through the boiler room and left a blood trail you couldn't miss to its final resting place 30 yards away. Both shots where approximately 20 yards.

Looking for a second slide to put on my G40 but all I can find are Gen 3 slides in 10mm.

I love my G40 with Deltapoint Pro for days at the range and for hunting, however the reddot just collects wood chips and grass clippings when I am working in the woods. My understanding is that the Gen4 G20 uses the same frame so it should be a simple swap. I have found a few stock uppers for sale on auction sites from time to time, but was interested in something a little more customized.

Quick update, about 6 months late... used some Federal 180 grain JSP from the factory to dispatch a little buck in November. Found the lead just under the skin on the exit side, so I personally feel like the 155 grain xtp's would make it to the vitals but I would feel better using 180s. Smaller critters and targets are in the future for the boxes of 155 grains I have.

No worries.

My use of "components" may have lead to some confusion. My books list the barrel length, case, and primmer used and these are the "components" I was referring to. A variety of bullet weights and powder choices are also listed of course. Primers and cases can be purchased and where discussed earlier in the manual as far as what to expect when switching brands of primer or case lot, but no mention was made about the barrel length. I wasn't sure if the longer barrel meant I could bump up the powder a little or if I should leave it alone and deal with the problems an under-powered load can cause.

It may not have been exactly relating to a starting load, but now I know I cannot use the published data for velocity.

Perhaps fundamentals need to be grasped before loading.

Peak chamber pressure has nothing to do with barrel length.
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Why do you think I am here???

Not all the components listed in my books match what I have, so I assume that I should see some changes from the data charts included. I would like to know what changes I should expect to see while I still have all 10 fingers, so I asked. 

Thanks everyone,  good resources!

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Ok, good to know.

I went with the IMR-4831 because my Hornady manual said it showed the best uniformity and accuracy and my Lyman had it a touch faster burn than their recommended load (H4831), for the 130 grains I am shooting.

I don't have 3031, 4895, or 4895 listed in either manual, but this should get me going in the right direction.

IMR 4831 at 52.0 grains was the loading

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Semiautomatic is correct.

I have to check my notes for the exact number and load, but it was an IMR powder.

From what I have read, a light loading can dirty up the internals pretty quick. I was using the suggested starting point in my lyman manual, so that might have something to do with it.
I plan to give everything a good cleaning and up the charge since I don't have any high pressure signs.

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Any thoughts on what might cause this to happen?

First time reloading my .270 and several of the brass are dinged up. I was on a concrete slab but don't recall seeing them getting banged up just from hitting the ground with the factory loads. Then again I wasn't really inspecting them for pressure signs at that time either.

Most of the information I have found online and in books list 4 or 5 inch barrels. Wondering how much I can deviate from the recommended starting point when working up loads for my G40's 6 inch barrel?

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Good info on the cavitation. Wasn't sure if water was a good choice, but then again as long as I dry everything off it can't be any worse than when it's raining or snowing. Mainly putting pins, springs and other small parts. Sounds like keeping the slide, barrel and frame out would be best and they are easy enough to wipe down.

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Picked up a ultrasonic for cleaning my deprimed brass. Heard they can work well for cleaning up detail stripped internals as well as barrels, but haven't read what people actually use in the bath. Same solution as the brass? Solvent of some sort? Specialty parts cleaner solution?

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