It sounds like a pretty good selection of cartridges to work with, at least to me. 

Regarding specifically your thoughts of trading or selling the .243:  I couldn't help but see that whenever there has been an ammo shortage, .243 was one of the very last to go.  The supply of .243 seems to get built back up readily also.  I have owned them before, but don't currently have a .243, but want to add one or a barrel for that reason.  If I already had one, wouldn't let a .243 go.

95% of the time it's a Browning HiPower, and a S&W 442.  Sometimes a Kahr PM9 rides along also.
Ammo is 9mm Winchester Ranger 127+P+ and .38 Spl 158 SWC-HP +P.

Other honorable mentions:
1911s of different varieties
HK P7M8
S&W 65 3"
S&W 69 4"

In no particular order:

S&W L-frame 10mm
Bren Ten return
Ruger PC carbine 10mm
Odd one: Any number of carbines in .357 Auto Mag caliber
S&W 547 9mm revolver return
S&W 547 extractor design widely applied to other cartridges and new gun models
HiPower pistol return, by someone who will update it a little (SA Loaded HiPower?)
Semiauto bullpup shotgun
Huge improvement in Marlin and Remington QC
Good quality all-steel medium size .22 auto pistol (i.e. Beretta 87)
More pistols with optics-ready slides

50 FPS isn't bad at all. 

Has anybody done any chronographing with the 3"?   I'm a bit curious about muzzle flash also. 

I guess by asking them to sell the bullets, they took "bullets" as "ammunition".    Maybe I should've gritted my teeth and called them "heads". (That's like fingernails on a chalkboard for me.)

In my reply, I sent a link to the (component) bullets page where the 200s would be if they sold them.  Maybe that will clear it up.

I asked for the 200 Gold Dot (unless they could give me a 210-220 also).. I got this in return:

Speer Ammo
Barry, we do have the Gold Dot bullets 10mm in the 200gr. Check out SKU# 54000 on our site!

I still don't see it, and replied saying same. 

If they had to put the warning on there- and Ruger can't seem to help themselves- that's better than any exterior spot I can think of.

I've already heard something like this a couple of  times from people I know:   "If I didn't already have a 1911 in 10mm, the Ruger is likely the one I'd be looking hardest at. "

That is their market.   There are quite a few people who would like a 10mm 1911, but haven't seen one they've been willing to buy.    Maybe they don't think a Delta is worth it, some have never seen certain brands in their favorite shop, maybe they are unaware of some guns that are being made, etc 

And, whether right or wrong, they won't buy a handgun that isn't a S&W, Colt, Sig, Glock , or Ruger.

That's the big one.  It's for all those guys who want a Delta Elite because it's a Colt, but think it costs too much, also because it's a Colt.   
Maybe it's not entirely reasonable, but this puts a "legitimate" make of 10mm 1911 out there at a relatively good price.   

I was looking at their LW Commander.  I guess I need something else.

Here is a possibility.   In the late 80s, I can recall Midway selling specially headstamoed brass.   The examples I remember were .45ACP headstamped "Cooper .45ACP", and .357 Magnum marked "Jordan .357 MAG".  Maybe there was a ".Keith .44 Mag" also.

Perhaps they made some 10mm marked as you found also.  I don't remember any, but I didn't see the others I just listed until maybe 1987-88.  Since this was after the Bren Ten was gone and just before the Delta Elite appeared, the 10mm future was looking bleak. It's possible the 10mm brass had been made and already discontinued by the time I saw the others. 

Jus a wild guess.   

Perhaps this a good time for a reminder, or for any new reloaders a tip:
Always keep an eye on the powder level when reloading. 

You know what X grains looks like in a case because you have your first case as an example.  It was loaded after adjusting the powder measure and checking it on the scale. From there, it went straight back into the case.
That is your standard for comparison.

If using a single stage press, comparing is easy.  You hold a light above your case loading tray, angling it so you can see the level in each case.  As you go down each row, you are just eyeballing for a consistent level.  This won't tell you if each charge is absolutely dead on the money, but if a charge is very much low or high it will be apparent.   A double charge is so obvious it can't be missed.   

On a progressive, it isn't much more difficult.  Many types of flexible stem "snake lights" can be mounted to the press and set so the beam shines into the case mouth after it receives the powder charge.  Again, you've set the first case's charge by the scale and know what it should look like. As you go along, they should be monotonously consistent in powder height.   If not, you will catch it.
But you have to be watching for it.   It might add another quarter second to each run of the handle (which I know will feel like a lot when you do it) but it's worth doing. 

I always thought the guide rod was probably a sacrificial part also.  It is by far the cheapest item that could get pounded to death. 

I remember some of the early tests in the 80s had this guide rod practically destroyed in testing, but they always seemed to last a long time in actual use.  This made me wonder if the guide rod material was changed to something a little tougher. 

Quote from: The_Shadow on August 06 2012 02:02:09 PM MDT
Barry in IN, I have a Saeco two cavity mould for 44Mag which is a TC design at it doesn't cast very well.  Hard to get clean sharp  edges... it could be the mix & temp but I try it from time to time. 

What are the length of the bullets from the H&G 315 mold?  The Speer SWC 200's are 0.7135" and so far I don't get case bulges with those I have tried.

I have a Saeco 428 (.44 240 TC) and it has to be kept hot to make decent looking bullets.   I like the shape though, because it loads slick and smooth into chambers and magazine tubes.
Edit- I was thinking about it, and realized that of the dozen or more Saeco moulds I have, only that #428 and the #301 (.30 cal 196 grain) are this picky.  The others are noteworthy in that they cast fine at most temps, so I can jump right in when I'm casting something else.  The 428 needs hot alloy, and the 301 needs hot alloy, a pressure fill, and maybe the right moon stage.  The rest don't care as long as the alloy is liquid. 


I'll measure some 315s tomorrow.  We just got back from an emergency run to the vet with the new pup.   I doubt it's that long, though.  But then, I have to keep OAL on the short side to get them in my Delta mags, which is part of the bulging.     
   

I know this thread seems to have slowed down over a week ago, but I just joined, so...

I'm a caster.  I only have two 10mm moulds, but they have been sufficient so far.  I have a 4-cav H&G 315, which is a 200 grain TC (although they run around 208 or so from WWs) and the RCBS .40-180CM, which was meant for the .38-40 and casts about 185 from WWs.   I got that one with the plan of it doing double duty in 10mm and my .38-40 New Service, which it does.

Neither design is without problems. 
The H&G casts beautifully (shocker, I know) but those are some long bullets.  I thought of that mould when I saw pics of The Shadow's loooong RCBS 200 SWC earlier in the thread.  I have trouble with that 315 bulging thicker cases so they don't chamber in my Delta Elite.
The RCBS has that RCBS mould fault- it's only a two cavity.   Other than that, I like the shape, with a big wide flat meplat, which is different from RCBS's drawings make it look. 

I swapped another caster some bullets from my H&G for some Lee 175 TCs.  That's the only three cast bullets I've used in 10mm.

I'd like to try the RCBS 170 SWC or the Saeco 045 (also a 170 SWC).   The thing is, I'd like to use the SWCs in IDPA and that calls for more bullets than I'd like to make from a two-cav mould.  That makes it hard to go with the RCBS.  The Saeco is made in 3- and 4-cavity, but... well, I've never even heard of anyone using that Saeco mould, so I hate risking over $150 on a mould that I know nothing about, even from others using it. 
Come to think of it, I don't know if I've heard of anyone using any Saeco .40/10mm mould. 
Anyone?