As a novice-never-reloaded-before I started on a Dillon 450 circa 1980.  Jumped up soon to 550, loaded on it for 20 years.  Sold it for more than it cost me new (with dies/tool heads) for step into 650.

Now closing in on nearly 40 years reloading.  Never had nor needed 'single stage' nor anything else.  If I want I can use my 650 as a sort of single stage.

For me it was a question of 'would you rather spend your time shooting' or 'would you rather spend your time reloading'.
I learned how to operate the Dillon, which in reality is just like a single stage only 5 different aspects of that single stage going on at the same time.  You learn to pay attention to nuances, the way a musician in a symphonic orchestra learns to play their instrument together at the same time as everybody else.

Stimulating and very efficient!  One handle pull, one bullet reloaded. 

Outstanding technical support as well from the factory.

regardless of that report, I continue my search for suitable additional 10mm to supplement my Sig 220-10. 

Perhaps a CZ or something with a P35 style grip.  Recent G40 didn't work for me very well.
Prefer double stack.  Any links for a good comparison review?

I'm amazed to learn at this late date, that I can get far better accuracy from my 10s, just by sitting down, not touching bench or rest at all.
The entire falling plate rack falls regularly, IF I use a chair and otherwise 2 handed 'Weaver style' hold.  If I stand up in the same position at the same
falling plate rack, missing 1 or 2 regularly.  Further unexplained as of yet, the vertical plate tree at same distance, is harder for me to hit than the horizontal presentation.

Sig 220-10 Hunter
standing bowling pin distance; two handed: minute of bowling pin 6x8 if not hurried;
bench rested some way or other: best group was : minute of peach pit;

varies from day to day;

Have yet to shoot farther than 75 yards; most distances are 25-50 yards;

Mostly reloads looking for the magic recipe;

I've been reloading 10mm in a variety of recipes much of the past year.

While I've come up with some satisfactory loads based on published data sheets, rather embarrassing to admit this:

My "best" loads, defined as 'most pleasant AND most accurate at all range games thus far explored, has been the SIG factory 180 defensive stuff.

...give him a pair of 1 gallon water jugs at 40' , one for each caliber.

See what motivational  enhancement that produces.

weather uncooperative lately with 2 ice storms & unusual amount of snow, after high water & road closures....

Last time I loaded the 155 plated RNBB from Berry's, I was astounded at the accuracy on the falling plate rack...just couldn't miss. 

This  time putting 'em on paper to see just what the comparison is to my other moderate recipe favorites.

Results pending, maybe early next week.

re: "as for using magnum primers,"

I too ran chrony tests years ago and had little data supporting any conclusion one way or another.

My own observations from using mag/standard primers, has been absolutely ~zero~ differences in my target groups or (admittedly large POI) results on steel targets at least out to 50 yards.

There was a move to run small primer 45 acp a few years ago.

The argument for large/small primer sizes is a different discussion.  Seems to be 2 groups similar in the vague advantages of either as the 'daylight savings time' conundrum.

another issue I heard about brass being 'too weak to stand up to reloads'.....

I'm no beginner at reloading pistol cases, although fairly new to 10mm reloading.
Even my local lead casting supplier, of much exposure to the frailties of all sorts of reloader blues, told me not to expect more than 'just a couple at most' reloading cycle before case failures.

I've been reloading the same basic 800 Starline cases repeatedly since last February.  Have gone thru 8 cycles so far, using same brass with a variety of recipes from 180/165/155 cast and plated boolits.

These have all been in the 1050-1250 fps range as published by the Lee 2nd & Hodgdon on line data.

The only brass I've lost to date was one I stepped on and mashed too bad to recover.

These have loaded in the same 2 handguns, either S&W 610 revolver or Sig 220-10.

I'm pleased with the round so far.

thanks for the ideas gents;

Trying to match data available with 155 hard cast SWC .401 with 'WSF' seems seems to escape my search. 

The RNHB plated 155 Berrys worked so well was hoping to repeat the performance.
Going to town tomorrow; maybe something is waiting for me 

Hard to find; I've loaded 165 & 180 cast lead, neither of which satisfy.


Of a half-dozen recipes in Berry's plated in 155/165/180, *my* absolute best accuracy to date has been Berry's 155 round nose hollow base.

These are also hard to find locally.  May have to order direct I guess.

Given the bulk of my reloading has been cast lead over decades, the mystery of fitting 'best POI' for range games largely has been satisfactory with minimal effort regardless of the caliber or pistols involved.

Meanwhile, have cast 155 SWC but can't find recipe on hodgdon or other web sites.
My old printed charts(some of them REALLY old) don't have 10mm OR 40 S&W. (!!!)

Tips/tricks/links/recipes/ appreciated.

re: "    Would a 10mm fit in a Sig 229?

I would say no. I have 229 in .40
The magazine is too short to accommodate the 10mm"

in addition the 220-10 weigh additional 5 ounces more than the 229; something has to tame the added recoil.  From what I read in the development of the 10mm version of the 220, considerable engineering was required to make the resulting pistol safe/accurate/reliable/safe.

why, the Sig 220-10 Kryptek of course...

Cheers and good luck.  Please post your results.

[lust ON]