Yea, mine came with a glob of red, I assumed, loctite. Though, it acted like it was applied to an oily surface. Would make sense that it wasn't actually loctite.
I have blue in it, now, I believe, but I have only a few hundred rounds through it since remounting it.

Just want to wake up the thread.
I picked up a 220sse last year. Easily my softest shooting 10mm.
I had to switch the grips out for a set like yours as the rosewood grips were slicker than salmon.
Trigger took a few hundred rounds to break in, but it's very nice, now. I do wish the pre travel was about half of what it is.. just don't feel like spending the money on a GG trigger or something of the like.
Curious if you've had any issue with the rear sight coming loose?
Mine came loose the first time out, and I discovered Sig only has a single set screw to anchor it. I cleaned and re-loctited it, but after speaking with another guy with a similar issue on the Sig forum, I think I'm going to drill and tap a second hole to help secure the sight.


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I can't say anything about velocity where I've never choreographed anything, but I can at least share my personal experience with the Hunter.
I've had mine for about 3-4 years, now. Got it when they were still under a $K. Out of the box, the slide to frame fit and finish feels hand lapped. The overall finish is superb and looks beautiful. The bluing is extremely thin, and easily scratched, unfortunately..
Stock SAO trigger was really good, but far from the best I've experienced- I have since upgraded.
The stock spring was way too light for anything even remotely stout, this is a known detail with these guns. I think I have a 20# long slide spring in there, now. It handles well, but is a pain to rack. (Not a lot of purchase on the slide.)
Despite the extra length of the slide, this gun feels a little more flippy than my Stock III. That extra mass moving backward is felt more, and does not help keep the muzzle down as I thought it would. Not terrible, but noticeable.
Accuracy is stupid on this- I mean that in a good way. I can hold a couple inches at 20yards off hand with this pistol. The tight lockup and extra sight length really help.
The ejection is very erratic, shells go everywhere. However, it hardly matters as this gun runs so flawlessly otherwise.

So far, I've upgraded the trigger to a Henning flat trigger kit, upgraded the springs, polished the guide rod shoulders, and I think that's about it. I did put a rail and scope on it this year for fun. Have taken it out to 100yards, successfully, even with a cheap scope.
Anything else you want to know?

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I have a Stock III and Hunter. The Hunter is the competition frame, I believe. At least that's what I picked up somewhere else in a forum.
The frames are essentially the same except one has a rail (stock iii) and the Hunter/Comp is just drilled and tapped for optic/thumbrest mounting.
The SAO on my Hunter was pretty dang good, though that didn't stop me from upgrading.
The DASA on the Stock is quite crunchy and rough, but I've seen mixed reviews about it. Some people think theirs is okay.
I think I will upgrade it to SAO at some point, anyway, as it's primarily a range toy for me.
I would attach pics for comparison, side by side.. but they're too large for the forum I guess.

Great pistols. Did it only ship with 1 mag? I can't remember if mine came with 1 or 2.

I haven't forgotten pictures, just haven't had a moment yet!

Quote from: Stilgar308 on March 17 2018 06:08:05 PM MDT

Quote from: Bud White on December 25 2017 05:03:50 PM MST
Very nice looking gun i just wish i could get one with ambi safety and i'd have one

I'm a lefty as well. I ahve a Hunter 10mm on order and I will be ordering this safety.

http://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-standard-ambi-safety/

I suggest spending some time with the pistol before installing the ambi-safety.
I only say this because a few people, myself included, choose to upgrade the stock parts- and this safety can be a pain to take off if you choose to upgrade other parts. The tiny roll pin that stakes it together fits very tight.

Quote from: Gzig5 on March 16 2018 10:19:34 PM MDT
Thanks for the reply!  It definitely is helpful.  Too bad there doesn't seem to be a drop in solution.  I've looked at that straight trigger and I'm just not sure I would like the feel but I'll keep an open mind.  Wasn't aware the EGW defeated the FPB, I need to understand it's function better to make  a judgement how I feel about that.  I'm not running and gunning either.  Too old, too fat.

I've looked at how the sear engages the hammer and my first thought was to shorten the engagement by thinning out the sear from the bottom side.  That would leave the engaging surfaces fully hard except when it rolls over the edge.  Shortening the hooks on the hammer is probably a little more fiddly.  I don't need glass rod-breaking crispness.  If I could get rid of 50% of the creep I'd be pretty happy.

I need to do some research and figure out what it takes to harden that sintered or molded metal, whatever the sear is made from.  I have a heat treat furnace to play with as well as Kasenite.  Maybe the Melonite process, that seems to be popular and makes stuff hard and slick.

I'm not against sending it out either, but I don't know to whom and I want to have a go at it first.

Looking forward to anything else you can come up with.

One thing I had considered during my first experiments was kind of along the lines of what you mentioned: I wanted to remove material from the bottom of the sear, but at an angle. What I found though was that removing material there allowed the sear to tilt more into the hammer hook and allow more play on the other side where it engages the safety. The trigger got heavier as the sear needed to push the hammer back more to clear it..
What I did do to really shorten the creep was shortened the hooks on the hammer- taking material from the top, not the face, to leave as much of the hardened material on the contract surfaces as possible.
When I did that, I ended up having a noticeably larger overtravel in my trigger when the hammer dropped. Problem was that if I adjusted my trigger to minimize that, then the sear would hit the second hook on the hammer as it dropped- so that also had to get filed and shortened.
If you look at the Henning Ultimate Hammer (it's not a race hammer, I was thinking of my CZ) it's an EGW part that's been made with shortened hooks and better engagement angles. It, by itself can improve your creep a lot. The trade-off being that you'll really want to put in the sear to optimize.. Which needs smithing.. At least mine did. I'll get pictures up later.
I had considered heat treating my parts as well as I make tools for a living and also have some great heat-treating options. Unfortunately, our metal analyzer is set up for the steels we use and gave me varying readings off other parts I've tested in the past.
If you email Henning, they're very helpful there and might give you some insight as far as how to go about hardening the parts, or can better explain how their parts work.

As far as the firing pin safety, it's the opposite of series 80 1911s and other firearms with similar safeties that I'm aware of.
What they all have in common: A plunger with a spring in the bottom of the slide that's actuated by a moving part in the trigger group. Pulling the trigger unblocks the firing pin, in good timing, just before the hammer drops.
What's different: in certain 1911s , the firing pin is block needs to be pushed up into the slide to allow the gun to fire.
In the Tanfoglios, it's the opposite- the plunger is depressed until the trigger is pulled- dropping the block out of the way of the firing pin.
So by using an EGW sear, the arm that engages that plunger is omitted, meaning the firing pin is never blocked. Some guys remove the extra parts, but I didn't, because I don't like having a big hole allowing dirt directly into my firing pin.

Quote from: Gzig5 on March 16 2018 06:42:32 PM MDT
Sorry to drag a year old thread out of the bushes, but I have the same concern as the OP regarding SAO trigger creep on  Witness Hunter and this thread didn't seem to have a wrapup.  I've adjusted out the pre-travel as much as possible and  I still have about .100" of trigger travel for the sear to release the hammer.  The pre-travel wasn't too concerning, acts like a two stage trigger which I prefer on a rifle.  But that creep on the second stage is very distracting for deliberate trigger pulls.  I haven't done the polishing routine but the trigger is already very smooth and likely get better.  The weight is about right just over 4 lbs.  None of the info I've found online addresses sear engagement.  Any luck with the EGW hardened sear?  Does another hammer have shorter engagement?  I don't want it on the hairy edge but right now it has way too much engagement for deliberate shooting.

Since last year, I have done a bunch of playing with the internals.
I probably had a solid 8-10 hours into trial/error testing with hook shape and sear engagement- and though I ended up with a really sweet pull and break, I knew it wouldn't last a very long time where I had removed the hardened material from the parts..
I ended up purchasing the egw hard sear, and later, a Henning trigger and hammer.
The EGW sear by itself doesn't do a whole lot in the stock setup. I believe it has a slightly different engagement that is best for if you plan to change other parts out (like the hammer)
Biggest downside (or upside depending on your preference) to the EGW sear is that it eliminates the FPB lifter. Meaning it defeats a safety. I don't shoot competition, so the firing pin block isn't a major concern of mine, but take that as you will.
Another downside is that the hard sear requires some careful modification to fit the sear cage. Even the "EGW prepped sear" from Henning needs some smithing, but I believe is prepped specifically to engage a new hammer- the Race Hammer.

The flat trigger definitely wraps up the whole thing.  It really let's you tune in the pre and over-travel.

I'm not sure how to load a video on here without posting it to YouTube first, but I've attached a picture of the final product.

If I get a chance this weekend, I'll get the parts together and post pictures of everything in and out.

I feel like I'm missing some details, but feel free to ask more questions.

The slide stop on my Hunter loosened up where the pin is attached to the lever- it has not caused any issue.. I'm with sqlbullet, I don't see it causing the issue described.

Got the Henning parts installed.
Part of the kit for the hammer was an EGW hard sear- I already had one fitted to the gun from previous experimentation- to my amazement, it worked with the new hammer perfectly.. The downside being I paid for a part I don't need.
The trigger feels very nice, now. I was really close with the stock parts, but the tightness of the Henning trigger makes a very noticeable difference overall.

I'll do a full review and picture set in the smithing section this coming week.

Here's a screenshot from a video I sent to my buddy- not that you can get much from it, but you can see how it looks!

Quote from: Canoe on December 28 2017 05:18:07 PM MST

Quote from: 8strings8rounds on December 28 2017 08:16:57 AM MST
I am currently waiting for some Henning parts to come in for my Hunter.
I did spend some time modifying the stock parts to see what I could do (with the intention of replacing them, anyway) and I got an amazing trigger out of it- the issue being that upon shaping the sear, sear leg and hammer hooks, one is potentially removing the very thin, hardened surface.
I managed a very light, clean break with a short reset and have run about 400 rounds of Sig ammo through it without issue.
I have a Henning Flat Trigger and Ultimate hammer/sear+ extended FP all coming in the mail tomorrow.
Planning to install it all by tomorrow night. The down side to the new sear is that it is lacking a FPB leg, so anyone planning to do this kind of upgrade is automatically out from certain competition for disabling a safety.. I don't shoot competitively, so I don't really mind.
I'll probably post in the smithing page once I get into it.

Good to know.  I'm going to start with polishing the parts.  Sounds like you managed to get a good trigger. 

Similarly, I was told by a Tanfoglio smith that the next course of action (if the polish job didn't get me to the desired end point), would be an aftermarket sear and hammer.  Let me know how your project goes.  I was looking at the Xtreme hammer and sear combo but will check out the Henning as well.  However, add in a sear cage (if that is even necessary?) and this is not an inexpensive upgrade so hoping the polishing job is adequate.  Sound like my trigger is a little heavier than what is typical so I am hoping it will.

Curious as well to see how you like the Henning flat trigger and what difference it makes.

Mine started with a fairly heavy, crunchy trigger.
Polishing the internals and the sear/hammer surfaces really helped out the stock setup.
I had done the extra work to see what I could get out of it.
I was looking at the Xtreme parts pretty hard before deciding to go with Henning. I love the looks of the Xtreme hammers and stuff, but I found myself enticed by the "best trigger available for Tanfoglio" line on the Henning Group page.

I'm not entirely sure what a different sear cage would have to offer.. I see people get the Xtreme cage, but best I could tell from pictures, it's identical to the stock cage, just in the white.. So I don't know. Perhaps someone in the forum would know for certain.
Like I said, I'll post with first impressions when I get the parts in.

I am currently waiting for some Henning parts to come in for my Hunter.
I did spend some time modifying the stock parts to see what I could do (with the intention of replacing them, anyway) and I got an amazing trigger out of it- the issue being that upon shaping the sear, sear leg and hammer hooks, one is potentially removing the very thin, hardened surface.
I managed a very light, clean break with a short reset and have run about 400 rounds of Sig ammo through it without issue.
I have a Henning Flat Trigger and Ultimate hammer/sear+ extended FP all coming in the mail tomorrow.
Planning to install it all by tomorrow night. The down side to the new sear is that it is lacking a FPB leg, so anyone planning to do this kind of upgrade is automatically out from certain competition for disabling a safety.. I don't shoot competitively, so I don't really mind.
I'll probably post in the smithing page once I get into it.

Quote from: asilcot10 on June 05 2017 12:31:52 AM MDT
As usual, I got sidetracked and just got this trigger installed this weekend. As I expected it was a bit more involved that the Glock and Springfield triggers but I found a decent YouTube video on disassembly and reassembly of the Witness. The "oh crap" moment came when I was polishing the trigger bar with a dremel after attaching the Henning trigger. There is no thread lock on the adjustment screws and the vibration from the Dremel caused the pretravel adjustment screw to back completely out and fall to the concrete floor in my shop. I must have found a couple of dozen steel pins from my Frankford Arsenal tumbler before I finally found that screw. The trigger does come with a spare of each screw but I really wanted to find that one.

  I have not fired the pistol with the new trigger yet but I really like the feel. My hands are larger than most people and I almost ordered the long trigger but decided at the last minute to go with the medium. That turned out to be a good decision. I was satisfied with the length of the factory trigger and Henning says that the medium is the same length.

  An allen wrench is included for one of the adjustment screws but the other one requires a T8 Torx bit to adjust.

Hey, I know this thread is a few months old, but I just now found it after ordering the Flat Trigger and Ultimate hammer/sear kit.
How did yours end up turning out?
I had my Hunter pretty well tuned with the stock parts, but can't wait for this to come in this week.

Back when I got my 1006, the guy who sold it to me threw in a new set of trijicon night sights that he bought but never installed.
I noticed immediately that the pistol shot low about 4-5" at 20 yards. The night sights do look like they would help a little (front sights a hair shorter and rear a hair taller) but I didn't think it would be enough and started looking for an adjustable rear.
LPA came up in my searches.. But I never heard of them and they were $90 for the TPU10WE30 for the 1006..
Fast forward- just found the TPU10WE30 on fleabay for a third the price and took a chance.
Anybody have experience with these on this pistol?