There is something about the Alaska Penn that stays with someone. Love the country and people. Wintered in Nelson Lagoon, Port Heiden, fished out of Sand Point, King Cove.
  Still like the 10mm for general woods carry but when in big bear territory the 454 just feels a little better. The feeling of needing to get as many shots off as possible because your at the bottom of the energy range can get a little bit to exciting  . Grant it, it's enough, but why not the 454. Might only be able to get that one quick shot off and not placed exactly where one wants it either. The Ruger Alaskan being a snub nosed is a specialty item for just that, a get off me gun that you hope you never have to use for the purpose it was purchased. Besides a good excuse to buy one more gun that is hard to argue with and I really like shooting it.
Having said that if all I had with me was a 10mm I wouldn't hesitate to beat the brush on some adventure in big bear territory. Went deer hunting on Kodiak last fall and had a mighty 257 Roberts and G20 with me. Turned out to be a fantastic hunt, 3 was limit and shot two more on a proxy tag.
Old timers like my dad used 270/30-06 for everything and a .357 for packing out meat so guess I'm used to not carrying hand cannons.
  Started looking into the Sti after we had a passenger on our landing craft that had two open carry Sti 40s, hmm. Upon closer look I just had to have one. May end up using for woods carry if it becomes a reality, trying to push the justification element a little to hard perhaps though. Can always pretend like I'm Robo Cop in the woods with that thingif nothing else.
  Would be using hard cast bullets in the future which is another reason for the 454. Need a different barrel for G20 when going that rout. Then need to shoot a pile of rounds to make sure it feeds well to feel confident. Ruger Alaskan- get the biggest and baddest, end of story.

Thanks for the info sep, answers a lot of questions. Yes Unimakpass is a indicator of where I hangout. Commercial fished that area for many years so hunted Alaska Penn, Kodiak, Kenai Penn ect for many years which of course means lots of bear encounters. My dad homesteaded in Homer in 1938 and was one of the early guides in the area and well known bear encounters.
Picked up a G20 that was a impulsive sale purchase. Liked how light it was and figured for black bear woods carry was good. Was hiking up a local creek that thought only black bear hung out at when ran into a brownie sow with cubs and she immediately charged. Was able get three quick shots off but tripped backwards and last shot clipped the end of my middle toe off as it came up between me and her. It worked but picked up a 454 Alaskan for a little more horsepower.
  Like 10mm but would like one in a Sti .

 Not for ccw. Could go 5"or 6". Mainly wondering about improvements or otherwise on newer models.

 Looks like their also making it in the 2011 now.

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/653700305

  Looking into the STI double stack 10mm options. Like the looks of the Perfect 10 but wondering if the Nitro or others has any improvements concerning the trigger ect. worth considering?
  Thanks for any input.

Dang, seemed to easy to be true. Looks like more homework on hard cast and lead. Thanks.

Ah, I knew I would Learn something on this site. Might star rating reloading 10mm so will file info away. Thanks again.

Yes, concentrating on shot and snapping the trigger just as the foot comes up. At least it was just the top of the middle toe.

Shadow, thanks on that. Was thinking I was going to have to get a different barrel for the glock, seeing how it's supposed to be the most reliable barrel available this is good news. Upgrading to 6" on the the glock 20 so will just order from  glock. Like simple. 

Thanks for all the information. Feel like I got a base to work from. Just got back from hauling freight to Uganik Bay at Kodiak Island. Went ahead and got a glock 20 gen4. Figured if I'm going to upgrade trigger, barrel, ect. might as well start from that platform. Can lone the gen3 to the crew with the stock trigger when we go off hiking in different directions.
  Also read that "hard cast" bullets are fine in glock barrels. It's "lead" bullets that cause the fouling. Good news because it sounds like glock barrels are the most reliable.

https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=54

Here is a more accurate account of story. I'm from Homer.

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2016/08/dean-weingarten/exclusive-interview-with-kim-woodman-10mm-bear-gun-guy-who-shot-his-toe-off-graphic-video/

Kind of new around here so this might be old news but I just read this on Buffalo Bores website.

https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=54


Differences Between 'Lead' & 'Hard Cast' Bullets
THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN 'LEAD' BULLETS AND 'HARD CAST' BULLETS
Many gun owners refer to hard cast bullets as 'lead' bullets. In most cases, they do not understand the drastic differences or they would not use such an inaccurate generalization. This generalization is as inaccurate a generalization as referring to all motorized vehicles as Volkswagens.

Hard cast bullets may contain some lead and be grey in color, but that is where the similarities stop. Hard cast bullets can be formulated of numerous alloy mixes (antimony, silver, tin, etc) containing some lead, but the alloys make the bullet much harder than pure lead. Pure lead has a Brinell hardness # of about 4. Most hard cast bullets will have a Brinell hardness # of 11 to 30 and as such are several times harder than lead.

Generally speaking, a properly designed, sized and lubed hard cast bullet will not leave lead alloy deposits in a rifled barrel, but pure lead bullets will almost always foul a barrel to the point of a total loss of accuracy (with very few rounds fired) and perhaps to the point that the barrel will split or worse. ( see my essay on 'Dangerous Pure Lead Cowboy Ammunition' ) I am employing many abstractions here, as there are a number of ways to make a hard cast bullet foul your barrel and make a pure lead bullet not foul, but on the whole, what I have written in this paragraph is accurate.

Depending on certain variables, in many instances and for many uses, hard cast bullets will not deform or 'mushroom' when they impact living mammal tissues, but lead bullets will deform or 'mushroom' at very low impact speeds. Lead bullets will deform and have much less penetration while hard cast bullets will maintain their shape and penetrate deeply however, this requires using sufficiently hard alloy mixes, matched with intended impact speeds on the intended medium.

Hard cast bullets can be alloyed and designed for hunting large and dangerous game where deep penetration is needed - a lead bullet cannot be used this way. I shudder every time a customer refers to our beautiful hard cast hunting bullets as 'lead' bullets. It happens almost daily.

This short essay could not cover all the variables of/and the differences between hard cast and lead bullets - it would take a large book to do that, but hopefully it sheds some light on the on the general/gross differences.

Chuck, was thinking of spring change in gen3. If one goes with the heavier spring will it work with the lighter rounds? I see some have 3 different spring weights.

 My daughter is shooting a 357 smith and I'm waiting to see how she likes the glock. She is on horses allot in bear country and most pack wheel guns-41,44 and some 454. She will probably stick with the revolver ,however will try to make the 10 as appealing as possible. Apparently the glock 40 has the least recoil but a lot of iron to pack.

Thanks, it sounds like the sure way is to get the latest gen4, if one is to go that direction, and then put plenty of actual rounds through it that a person will depending on. Bin using Buffalo Bore 220gn. Need to upgrade spring and aftermarket 6" barrel.
  Glad I ran into this site. Didn't have a clue about some of these issues. Can save a guy a lot miles and possibly more than that.
When I bought the gen3 it was the only option available in Homer. Feeling good about that now.