So I went back to the original barrel with the aftermarket recoil spring and shot around 125 rounds with all my mags and had only 1 FTF with 200 grain Underwood hardcast (looked like the round hardly moved up, totally horizontal.  Racking chambered it.).  Shot my handloads (went with a shorter O.A.L.), 180gr Underwood TMJ, and a box of Underwood 200 grain hardcast.

I need to measure the brass to see if there were any smiles.

So it does look like the aftermarket KKM barrel was causing all the FTF and FTF problems.

Question now, with the 1 FTF, is if I feel comfortable enough carrying it into grizzly land in a couple weeks.

I bought the gun new.

I did a 110 round test yesterday with all my mags and had 13 failures (5 FTE, 8 FTF).  Mag #3 was the worst and had 10 failures.  The other mags had 1 each.

I took down the pistol tonight and cleaned it again, wiped down and lightly lubed the extractor where I saw wear and put it back I thought the way it came out.  I am not quite sure what you are referring to so I guess the answer is no

I am going to try with the original barrel and aftermarket spring with the ammo I have (Underwood and my handloads).  If that doesn't work, I may try it stock with the lighter ammo you recommend.  I am trying to decide how much more money I am going to commit to this thing.

Underwood Ammo is using a 1.25 COL for the 200 gr hardcast, that might be causing issues there.  Crimp is within your stated range.  My handloads were a little long at 1.253 (book value was giving 1.26 COL) so I shortened those down to the lower end.  Before FCD crimp was .423 but FCD brought it down to .422 so that was within spec.

I guess I will try the shorter loads, original barrel, and cleaning and lubing the extractor and checking it for anything strange.

1) I need to test the ammo again in the original barrel to eliminate that as a factor
2) FTF are nose up hitting the top of the barrel hood, FTE - spent cases are in various positions
3) I do use a case gauge and the rounds pass the plunk test both factory and handloads and seeing the same malfunctions with both ammo types.
4) I would have to load up a few rounds and measure the crimp but since they are working in the case gauge and barrel, and the factory ammo is experiencing the same issues, I would assume this rules out crimp as a factor?

I have read elsewhere that it may be timing issues with the slide speed and magazine spring strength.

From all the issues I read about Glock bulging the brass and the case support, I went aftermarket for safety.  I use the Lee 4 set dies and use the FCD.

Do you really think the barrel is the issue?

Hi All,

First a big thank you to all the great info on this forum.  Spent a lot of time researching here over the last few years.

Here are the problems I have had with my Gen 3 Glock 29SF with full power ammo.  Not sure what to do:

1. Starting with the stock gun, Underwood ammo brass would get chopped and dinged by the slide (IIRC this was both 180 gr and 200 gr TMJ).  After researching here and elsewhere, I ordered a Wolff 21lb guide rod and recoil spring, seemed to solve that particular issue.
2. Feeling confident in 10mm, I decided to reload for 10mm and bought a KKM aftermarket barrel for case support.
3. Now I have numerous failures to feed and some failure to eject issues with all four Glock magazines (10 rd with pearce extension, 3 15 rd Glock 20 mags) with Underwood 180gr TMJ, Underwood 200 gr hard cast, and my own 180 grain loads (Starline brass, 8.5-8.7 grains LongShot, 180 grain Xtreme plated bullets and Missouri coated bullets - tried both).

I just don't know what to do.  Part of me wants to give up on full power 10mm and sell the gun but then I feel bad selling it with known problems (but is this a gun specific issue or a Glock 29 issue?).  Should I send it back to Glock?  Should I try lower power loads?

If lower power loads work, I guess I could use it for local hiking for moose and black bear and use another gun for grizzly territory.

Would appreciate any advice you might have.  Thanks.