In September, I emailed Armscor about this.  I wanted to buy 4 of them serial numbered in sequence for Christmas gifts.
Phillip Barnes at Sales (Phillip Barnes [phillip@armscor.com] replied:

Hello Mr. XXXX, this is Phillip with Armscor / Rock Island Armory.
I'm sorry but we do not sell directly to the public or dealers. The last two shipments of that model went to RSR Group, your local dealers can contact them to order.
Thank you
Phillip

I called RSR Group and they are sold out.

I emailed Armscor back, asking them to PLEASE not tease me by sending me e-mails of awesome high-capacity 1911s in 10mm and then not making any of them!!

No reply.

If we the members of this 10mm community could get together and email the sales people at Armscor, maybe we can convince them to add a few dozen to their production schedule.
I'm sure RSR Group will have no problem selling them.  For a Manufacturer, it's a great problem to have!  For a Distributor, it's a great problem to have!

For us wannabe buyers, it's frustrating.  For a company that relies on sales, that's a bad problem to impose upon us.

We got together to take the first step to Make America Great Again, now let's see if we can make under-$800-1911's high-capacity again!

I call upon everyone who reads this post (all four of you ;-)) to email the link above and ask politely for Armscor to make more!

If you rise to this challenge, please say so on this thread.

Thanks for your support.  May God bless all Americans and our awesome Nation.

Does anybody make a good shoulder holster for the Glock G40 MOS with a red dot optic attached?

Seems like a lot of the holsters I've seen on-line have a support strap right where the optics attach to the slide!

My buddy and I are going to try hunting whitetail deer with our 10mm pistols next month, but we are having trouble finding the right holster.

Please help!

I am a naturalized citizen. A Latino.  A legal immigrant.  I voted for Reagan as soon as I became a citizen at 18.  I'm voting for Trump.
I am a veteran of the U.S. Army, the CT Air National guard, the U.S. Air Force Reserve, and even the U.S. Civil Air Patrol. I'm voting for Trump.
During college I was commander of the Cadets at my University ROTC program.  I'm voting for Trump.
I was denied membership in the Boy Scouts of America, because in 1971, and living in Boston when I wanted to join, they didn't take "Spics" in my local troop.  I'm voting for Trump.
I'm a life member of the NRA.  I'm voting for Trump.

WHY?

Because he will build a wall and try to stop illegal entry into the USA? Yes.
Because his mother and two of his three wives are immigrants? Yes.
Because he was Commander of Cadets at his military school? Yes.
Because he will make our so-called NATO allies pull their own weight for THEIR defense? Yes.
Because he has already given us the names of who he will appoint to the next 5 openings in the US Supreme court? Yes.
Because he will call out China and hold them accountable for their detrimental policies on our currency and technology transfer? Yes.
Because no one has bought him, and he owes nothing to anyone politically? Yes.
Because he is calling out the Clintons and the Bushes for what they have done to us over the last 20 years? Yes.
Because he is a life member of the NRA and so are his kids?  Yes.
Because he's taking a 99.9% pay cut to be president? Yes.


Is he perfect? Does he say the same stupid stuff we say when we have a few beers together? No, he's worse.  He says it on national TV.

We all complain about Washington D.C. and we all say throw them all out.  Then one guy comes along who doesn't care about any of the status quo and we freak out.

Trump may lose, but not because of me.  It's because the silent majority doesn't register to vote in time or stays home on election day.
I have a Trump sticker on my Chevy truck and my Chevy Volt.

Stop whining about not having the perfect idiot in the White House. Your vote matters, and your opinion matters. This election really matters.
Put a sticker on your vehicle, wear a pin.  Convince your buddies at work to get the masses out for this guy.

Our Nation depends on you now.


 

I agree with the Witness FS comment on accuracy for the price.  My witness is really accurate, and I paid 400 bucks new.

My next dream gun is the Witness Elite Limited Pro.
Not sure how much more accurate it would be for double the price.


Actually that would be a great thread for us spec- and stat- hungry shooters:

I would like to compare all 10mm pistols by group size at 25 yards divided by street price using a standardized ammo, maybe a factory range ammo like the Armscor product.

That would truly be a "bang for your buck" comparison across the board.

Members on this site could each contribute their bench-rest data and we can average.  My gut feeling is that there will be minimal gains in accuracy above the $500 mark, and maybe no statistical correlation with purchase price at all.  We could have three classes, the under 4 inch, the 4-5.9 inch and the 6 inch+ classes and compare. 

I leave that pipe dream to our esteemed moderators, but if there is interest I can start gathering data.

Thanks for the awesome responses.

I was leaning toward a single stage loader because of the majority of the advice I have read here said to start with that and go slow. Seems like good advice. The option would be to use a progressive one round at a time till I get comfortable that the process is correct.

After watching YouTube videos of the models suggested, I think I will definately go with a progressive.  I can't spend an hour cleaning prepping and loading 20 rounds one stage at a time.  Maybe when I'm retired.

I failed to mention that I have a digital caliper.

I will need to add a brass tumbler. Good point.

The brass vs plated brass is a good point. I hope to get at least three reloads before I start to lose confidence in the cases, but I will inspect and measure stretch before reloading.  Plain brass is cheaper too.

You changed my mind on the scale issue.  I will go for a balance beam.
If I go with a Hornady lock and load, should I still use Lee dies or stay within the brand? 

Thank you all, I know this subject has come up before, but I couldn't find it all in one thread.

OK here goes...I'm going to start reloading 10mm.  I have not reloaded before, but I saw it done at the NRA convention.

After reading zillions of posts and getting dizzy on all the data, I asked myself this:  Why do you really want to reload 10mm?
My most introspective answer is...I want to shoot my favorite Underwood ammo all day, but not pay (as much) for it.


So, as a Life Member, I went to the source...MidwayUSA.com and scrounged up a list of stuff to make my first 1000 rounds.
What I ask of you reading this is...please critique my choices!  I promise to read all of your posts and accept your advice even if I don't agree with it yet.

I don't want to be a reloading expert, I just want ammo that is safe, accurate, and affordable to practice with the same "full power" self defense loads I will carry.

Here's my list:

Hornady Handbook of Cartridge reloading, 9th edition

Forster co-ax single stage press

Lee deluxe carbide 4-die set 

Frankford Arsenal DS-750 Electronic powder scale

Lyman Case multi-prep tool

Lee perfect powder measure

1000 Starline Nickel plated brass

1000 CCI 300 primers

1000 Hornady XTP 180 grain bullets

2lbs Accurate #9 powder

I already have a few ammo cases.

Did I miss anything essential?  Of course I will start low and work my way up to 14.5 grains or whatever that cartridge requires.  I will go by the book, which I will read cover to cover.

By my guess, my first 1000 rounds will cost me $500 in materials, and $450 in tools.  $875 to buy from Underwood. 
My second 1000 will cost me $300 in materials, or $875 from Underwood.
My third reload will be another $300 in materials, or $875 new.

so...3000 rounds of proficiency training will be $1550 or $2625.

A $1100 difference.  I could buy a Witness Match and have money left over for a box of smokin' hot Underwood Extreme Defender ammo!

Disclosure: I am not affiliated with any of the companies or brands listed above, except as an avid fan and repeat customer.

Thank you in advance to all of you mentors out there who are passionate about the subject and devote your valuable time to share your knowledge and experiences with those of us climbing the ropes for the first time.

Redwing, before you sell it, remember there aren't that many frequently fired 1911s that don't have a scratch somewhere!

I bought a used Kimber and was amazed it didn't have that scratch.  It does now, of course.

Also treat yourself to a bushing compensator.  The hotter your ammo, the smoother it will shoot.
For me, that was the best mod I've done to any gun so far, and it only costs about as much as 1-2 boxes of ammo.

http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Multi-Comp-Bushing-Compensator-Full-Size-Stainless-Steel/productinfo/397S/ can be found at online retailers and ebay for $60 on sale, $80

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1911-Punisher-Compensator-Brake-w-side-slots-45acp-SS-SATIN-Finish-Made-in-USA-/301704920420?hash=item463f03bd64:g:D5sAAOSwu4BVwSnK for $38 bucks delivered. 

I signed it.

I hope it helps.

Beautiful.
We should all have blemished guns like that.

Nice grouping too.

Bummer.

Well, enjoy your new firearm.

Nice gun!
If you want less bang for a few bucks, buy a $30 bushing compensator on eBay. It makes my Kimber 10mm feel like a 9mm. The hotter the load, the less muzzle rise!

http://r.ebay.com/hydJrq

And your STI will look even meaner than it does now.
But the barrel has to be 1911 specs, like an outside diameter of .58 or so to fit the new bushing.

Actually at that price I should give one to everyone on my xmas list that has a 1911.

I took lots of pics but they're too big. I have to shrink them first.

Since my last post, I added a Wilson combat bushing compensator, and I replaced the barrel link with a #2 from Wilson combat. I painted the lower lugs and under the barrel with Dykem and fired 100 rounds of the Armscor range ammo and 20 rounds of the same underwood JHP that was misfeeding before. No failures to feed, in any of the magazines.
The blue dye was rubbed off the lower lugs evenly right up to the barrel and the underside of the barrel chamber/ramp had no contact even though it looks very very close.   
The barrel fit seems to be right on now, and the bottom of the barrel ramp is just barely to the rear of the frame.   
Even so, the bottom of the ramp is below the contact point of the bullet nose if the cartridge doesn't nose dive.
Still trying to figure out the best way to shrink my pics.

All of my EAA guns are DA/SA without take-up adjustment.

I have a 9mm poly full size, 10mm poly, and an old BTA-90 that introduced me into the awesome line of CZ clones from Tanfoglio.

My wife has a Pavona 9mm, and she won a SAR K2P 9mm at the NRA convention this year.

We LOVE the EAA line of firearms.  I got a chance to hold a limited and a hunter at the EAA booth, but I couldn't decide which one I liked best.

I polished a lot of the roughness out of them, and I work the triggers according to their intended use, like target or carry.

I didn't know I could use the guts of a limited  in a 6" gun like the hunter, that sounds like the way to go.

I could be a $$$ driven policy on the spent brass.

I have been following EAA gunsmithing on youtube and learned a bunch of tricks, and I've been polishing lots of wear spots and contact surfaces.

I bought a Power Custom Series II stoning fixture with the CZ attachment, and modified it a little to work like a series I and a series II. It works great!
http://www.powercustom.com/parts_s2fixture.htm

I personally like to file off the tip of the hammer above the firing pin wear marks along a plane parallel to the slide when fully cocked, but leave enough to fully cock the hammer. Polish it to 2500 grit.
It makes the slide action so much smoother, and doesn't affect function. 

But even though I can make a hair trigger on my witness DA/SA, there is still so much take-up in SA mode.

I think my next gun will be a witness elite.

If I could adjust out most of the take-up, it bet would be an amazing firearm.

I can't pick up anything that hits the floor at my local indoor range.  I have thought about catching the brass with one of those nets.  Great idea.
But just pricing out new bullets and brass and primers and powder it seems to add up to very close to what I'm paying Armscor to do it for me.

Underwood is a different story, I think I can reload for less than that, but their ammo is so well made.

Thanks to TSP45ACP for the links.

Wolfie I will keep a eye out for excess pressure on the slide stop notch, but my Kimber TLE feels like it has a 20-22 lbs spring and the slide isnt moving very fast at the end of its travel.

On my witness, it feels completely different.  The Gunsmith from EAA said they use a 15 lbs recoil spring on the polymer frame!  It racks fully back and barely rides the next round home, rarely I have to nudge the slide forward to chamber a hollowpoint, but the CZ clones are such natural pointers (for me).

I wish I could have the awesome SA trigger pull of a good 1911 like my Kimber on a natural pointing frame like the CZ clones and maintain DA capability as well.  That's the engineering challenge of our generation.

By the way, I put a Wilson Combat compensator on my Kimber and it feels like a 9mm muzzle rise now.  Especially with the hotter loads, for 60 bucks, it has tamed the beast.

I can easily double tap a 21 ft target now. What a huge difference!!

I highly recommend anyone with a 1911 shooting 10mm to invest in a slide bushing compensator, it makes a huge reduction in muzzle rise.  You still have a real good recoil, but you can get back on target much much sooner.

Enjoy.