Quote from: sqlbullet on October 07 2015 11:28:12 AM MDT
He concluded that for a full size 1911 in 10mm the optimum was a 25 lb hammer spring, a flat bottom firing pin stop and an 18.5-19 lb recoil spring.

The hammer spring and flat bottom firing pin stops are huge parts of this equation.  The first thing the slide has to do is cock the hammer.  A very large amount of slide velocity gets taken up in doing this.  Increasing the hammer spring a little helps, but that flat bottom firing pin stop helps a bunch.  It dramatically decreases the amount of leverage the slide has on the hammer, by moving the force much closer to the fulcrum.  The action starts to feel like a compound bow with big cams.  During this one small section of travel, it is VERY heavy, then not too bad.

I have found this combination to stand up to everything I throw at my gun.  It is reliable and handles the full spectrum of 10mm loads without issue or hardship.

In a commander, I would bump the recoil spring 2 lbs to 20-21 range.

This is the info I was looking for. Specifically the recommendations for a Commander.

I've got a Dan Wesson 10mm CBOB (4 1/4" barrel) that is starting to develop more consistent feeding problems and its chewing up brass though ejection is still a decent distance.

It's a '09 model and I bought it used with maybe 250 rounds through it. (It's well over 1000 rounds now). Previous owner put in a FLGR and a shock buff. I removed the shock buff.

I don't know if he changed the spring at all which would have been 22# from the factory. Keith at DW recommended I switch to a 24# RS. I'm thinking of going with the suggestions in this thread though.

Regardless of what I do, the FLGR is coming out and a standard GI rod and plug are going in.

So, if I went to a flat bottomed FPS, 20# RS and a 25# mainspring, exactly what characteristics am I going to be looking at? (Reduced/felt recoil? Possibly harder manual racking of the slide? Affect on trigger pull? Possible clearing up of my issues?)

Thanks guys!