Quote from: Scorpion on July 03 2015 02:54:15 PM MDT
Hey control the trigger, I'm starting loading for my Rock Island 10(1911). What are you shooting your 8.2 through? I'm looking for a starting point for BE-86.

I was shooting them through a Glock 20 with 20 pound spring.  My favorite load is 9.2 grains of Longshot under 180 lead or XTP.

Quote from: radiotom on June 28 2015 01:42:21 PM MDT
Finally tested the muzzle flash at night.

The Gold Dot 9mm, HST 40, and HST 45 all seemed to have the same flash signature.

The BE-86 10mm, not so much. It was much brighter. Next time I might compare it with a Power Pistol load to see if it's actually any better than that. It was not blinding by any means, but still much brighter than the LE loads for the big three.

I tested the flash with 180 XTP in 10mm with BE-86 and Longshot a couple days ago.  8.2 gr of BE-86 under 180 XTP had a brighter flash and less velocity than 9.2 gr of Longshot under a 180 XTP.  In my opinion Longshot is the best powder out there for 10mm.

I don't have my exact velocities with me, they are at my parents house.  I went up to 9.5 gr LS with 180 gr lead sized at .402 in glock 20 sf, glock barrel, with 22 pound spring and saw no pressure signs.  OAL 1.26.  I like 9.2 grains of LS for 180 XTP and decided to stay with that for the lead as well as my range load currently.  Velocities for the lead were 10-20 feet per second faster then the XTPs if I recall correctly at various charges.  I can post the data when I have the exact numbers.  At this point Longshot is my 10mm powder, the only powder I would like to test is BE-86 (and I do have some) to compare velocities and flash with Longshot with 180 xtp.

More details on the malfunction would help.  Did the nose of the round make it into the chamber? Wwas the round caught on the top of the barrel?  Was the round stuck on feed ramp?  Was the round verticle?

Also, did you use the barrel to chamber check the cartridges?

I have a difficult time comprehending how a primer can cause enough pressure to push a bullet into the barrel, but not ignite the powder.  It's not like Longshot is difficult to ignite like H110/296/ball powder (at least I haven't heard it is difficult to ignite, it doesn't need a magnum primer).  I almost wonder if the powder charge was contaminated some how... I'm not doubting OP or anything, I just find it surprising and think contaminated powder or some other explanation is more likely than a bad primer (if the primer caused enough pressure to get the round into the barrel and eject the case...)

Quote from: gandog56 on March 11 2015 06:12:24 AM MDT
I've never even thought of trying 2400 on 10mm. My usual load was HP38 before Obozo got himself re-elected and made pretty much all powders scarce. I did luck into a 5 pound jug of Blue Dot not long ago and that is what I'm using now.

You might find a load but I have heard it is too slow, the powders I listed were for all calibers I use.  So far I have found Longshot to be my favorite.

Seems like a terrible choice for 10mm,  I don't like it for any caliber but that is me (and I have never used it).  My preferred powders for all calibers, from faster burn to slower roughly are:  Bullseye, HP38/231, Power Pistol, Longshot, 2400, and H110/296 (Unique as backup for all calibers).  Edit:  Those powders are for all cartridges, for 10mm I have had my best luck with Longshot.  I don't see Titegroup doing anything for me except poor case fill, and potential pressure problems.  I don't care about an extra grain of powder [meaning powder A requires 10 grains vs powder B requires 8 grains, edit], I care about performance, accuracy, and case fill.

That being said if you are safe, no reason not to try it.  I have loaded 1000s of rounds, double check every charged case, and have never thrown a squib or double charge... but I don't know if I'd see a double with Titegroup in a large case....

Quote from: The_Shadow on March 10 2015 10:15:43 PM MDT
Underwood was claiming 1250 with their 220 HC loading using 8.6 grains
http://10mm-firearms.com/factory-10mm-ammo-pull-downs/underwood-220gr-hard-cast-pull-down/

Double Tap was claiming 1300 with 200 with Gas Check loading 8.2 grains
http://10mm-firearms.com/factory-10mm-ammo-pull-downs/double-tap-200gr-wide-flat-nose-hard-cast-gas-checked/

Only testing will tell

I might try to test 180 XTP at 8.5, 8.9, 9.2, and 9.5 with XTP and lead and post results.

Quote from: cwall64 on March 10 2015 10:09:12 PM MDT
I am going to follow this closely, I a going to use Longshot also, I think I'll try the Hornady HAP 180gr (ordered a bulk lot of them).

HAPs should be similar/identical to XTPs as far as pressure/velocity/accuracy.  Depending on your goals 9.2 seems great with Longshot and 180 jacketed hornady bullets, obviously be safe and work up.  Some seem to go higher then that if they want nuclear, but my goals are "solid" 10 mm, not nuclear.

I like 9.2 gr of Longshot with 180 gr XTP, I saw no pressure signs up to 9.5 gr (didn't go higher).  Is 9.2 safe with 180 lead, has anyone seen pressure differences between lead and XTPs/jacketed and Longshot (physical signs, smiles, bulges, etc.)?  I'm not concerned about leading... I have confidence in the hardness and diameter.  Details below.

I plan on working the load up and looking for pressure, but I'm thinking most of my loads are going to be at 9.0 or 9.2 gr Longshot with 180 gr lead the next session out.  I will make a few at lower and higher charges to see where I am at.  I bought Longshot when I couldn't find other powders, then I scored my other powders for other calibers and I didn't have a need for it.  I got lucky when I got into 10mm, because Longshot seems like my main powder I would like to use for the 10mm currently.

I did a workup with 180 gr XTPs and Longshot in a Glock 20 SF with 22 pound RSA and came to the same conclusion I have read about, 9.2 grains of Longshot seemed pretty good.  My goal is 1200 plus with 180 grain bullets for true 10mm velocity, good accuracy (of course), with a small safety margin, decent brass life, and ability to drop charges (hand weighing not necessary).

I don't have my exact velocities with me right now, but if I recall correctly 8.9 was around 1200fps or slightly lower, 9.2 was around 1230, and 9.5 was getting 1250 plus [that was for Longshot and 180 XTP, edit].  OAL was 1.260 inches.  The added velocity didn't seem worth it to bump up to 9.5 grains for me, I liked the 9.2 for my goals.  Oddly enough the second time testing the rounds was lower velocity then the first on all charges, perhaps because the ammo had cooled down, it was closer to room temp at the beginning and near 40F at the end...

Anyhow I like to stay in book data and PowerPistol wasn't getting good velocity from the book charges Alliant sent me for lead when I chrono'd them, and they didn't feel like 10mm.  Longshot doesn't have book data for lead, anywhere that I have looked.  Hodgdon sucks at emailing me back, I have emailed them twice and haven't heard back, once for 10mm and another time for another caliber.

At this point I am wondering if lead will seal better = more pressure = should go with lesser charge than XTP OR.....

lead has less friction/negligible difference than jacketed = pressure almost the same as jacketed = same charges will work.

Again I will look for pressure signs and work up, just seeing if anyone runs 9.2 grains of Longshot under lead and jacketed as a go to, or drop a little less for lead...

Thanks.

Quote from: The_Shadow on March 10 2015 08:41:50 PM MDT
As in the case of the G-29 it is probably a higher impulse cartridge slamming the slide rearward fast enough to fling the brass against the slide near the extractor.  You should see a marking of the brass where it is contacting that area of the slide.

Recoil springs may change the timing to lessen or eliminate that issue.

I don't have the experience or knowledge that a lot of you guys have... but I feel this is what is happening here.  A simple test would be try a heavy spring and see what happens, and try lighter ammo and see what happens.

Quote from: jazzsax8 on March 08 2015 06:07:08 PM MDT
I just started loading with LongShot and am getting excellent accuracy and expected velocity which is very good.  One thing I really like about it is that it produces great velocity with current load data maximums.  I like 800X too but it seems like you have to violate current load data to get max velocity.

Agreed on LongShot.  I haven't gone outside of book data in any other caliber (maybe slightly on 357 mag), and I didn't want to start on 10mm.  LongShot has done great in my limited testing thus far and it might be the only powder I use in 10mm.

Long story short for me it would be high volume of one or more calibers, like competitive style shooting.  This would translate into at least 2,000 rounds or more a year in one or more guns (likely higher then that).

My father and I have came to the conclusion that I could never do a progressive.  I know there are ways to ensure you don't double charge and load squibs, etc.  However, I like knowing that every cartridge in my possession has been inspected at every step, usually twice for charges.  I could never have the confidence on a progressive that I do on a single stage.  I shoot several calibers, I usually shoot 1-2 times a week.

That being said, I have a decent amount loaded and brass prepped so I am ready to go, I load a decent amount during the winter, and my father loads with me.  I only load on the weekends since my father and I split the costs of everything and I keep the stuff at his place, if I loaded during the week I would have even more done.

I'd like to stay in published load data, not trying to get outside of books, but I don't want to shoot 40s out of my 10mm.

Looking to load 180 XTPs and 180 gr Dardas Lead Flat Point in a Glock 20 SF with 22 pound Brass Stacker spring, and stock spring if needed.  10mm powders that I have are Power Pistol, Longshot, and BE-86.  Other pistol powders I have are Unique, 2400, W296/H110, W231/HP-38, Bullseye, and Trail Boss.

I was thinking 8.5-9.5 gr of Longshot workup for the 180 XTPs.  I had also considered working up to 8.2 grains of BE-86 based on Alliant's online data.

I was thinking 7.0-8.0 gr of Power Pistol workup for the 180 Grain Lead Flat Points.

Any suggestions/comments?  Thanks.

Pretty simple, I am wondering about experiences with 10mm brass-life/condition/#-of-reloads in the Glock 20 SF factory barrel compared to the KKM barrel.  I plan on running hot loads that will be at published maximums or slightly below, I will not be going above book max.  I will be using Starline brass and 180 XTPs and lead.

I would like to stick with the factory barrel, but if brass life is increased/bulging is decreased I will consider the KKM.  From the looks of photos the chamber support seemed similar between the barrels, but the Glock chambers might be a bit looser.  I don't know if this has any practical impact on longevity of the brass.

Thanks.

Quote from: ShadeTreeVTX on January 22 2015 04:56:44 AM MST
I've been using a 20 lb spring in my G20sf G3 but than again I don't shoot Nuke loads all that much - just hot loads( my own ) I was going to move up to a 22lb but since I'm not having any problems with this spring I didn't - I'm using a LW 6.6" barrel and expected some problems but have had none.
So if it ain't broke don't break it.

Doug

Quote from: Pablo on January 22 2015 05:11:52 AM MST
22 or 24#? You would never need those. I've been reading here more than one person mentioning very heavy springs. I don't see the need. As ShadeTree says, if it works don't mess with it.

The hottest of the hottest are fine with 20#. In fact 17# does pretty good with decently hot rounds.

What I DO have a problem with is the inconsistent plastic guide rod. That thing needs to be gone. Get a good stainless with 17, 20 and MAYBE 22# springs. The plastic one really is just that, not repeatable. One retraction loosey twangy, the next bangy grabby. It's probably OK in the 9mm guns, but with big 10mm loads, it's not living a happy life. 

Thanks for the comments, I keep going back and forth between staying with the factory RSA and going heavier, which is why I plan on just trying them both out at this point.

I feel that while the 17# factory RSA might work fine and be 100 percent reliable, it might not be the best.

I've read reports that he G20s will cycle almost any ammo with the 22# springs, in my opinion the gun might be under-sprung so it can handle the pathetic/weak factory 10mm offerings at 17#.

I know the 17# and 20# will work fine, what I have a problem with is the frame taking a beating with hotter loads.  If the 17# spring can handle the "10mm factory" rounds that are really glorified 40 S&W, then I would rather have a heavier spring as I plan on shooting near max published loads almost exclusively.

I guess I will consider the 20# and 22# spring, likely the 22#, since it seems like a good compromise (heavier but not extreme).  I plan on loading some mid powered loads and shooting them with a weaker grip (not pure limp wrist) to ensure the reliability of the set up, if it runs good then I will be happy.  If I have issues I will probably just stay with the 17# spring.