Quote from: Charlie-AKA on October 07 2014 05:20:56 PM MDT
I'm looking to try installing a flat bottom firing pin stop on my Kimber stainless target II and I see two different ones at midway. There is the Wilson Bulletproof Square Bottom Series 70 and then a few by EGW that are oversized and some say they are Series 70 and one says Series 80. Which one is appropriate for the Kimber stainless target II with adjustable sights?
Also, if any are a drop in fit that would be preferable, as I'm no gunsmith, and there aren't any trustworthy gunsmiths in my town, I have to mail it off to someone or drive a long way. If I have to attempt handfitting, what abrasive tool should I use? A file?

Mine is a series 80.

Quote from: sqlbullet on November 03 2014 08:11:12 AM MST
A flat bottom firing pin stop changes the velocity profile of the slide by giving the hammer more leverage over the slide.  This eats up momentum. 

Thanks for the advice. Just looked at midwayusa.com, they have a lot of different brands and shapes. Which one is for a kimber?

It is the first best action to take in slowing the slide down.  The second is a stronger main (hammer) spring.

Here is why.  Any energy you store in the recoil spring is released in accelerating the slide back forward.  This results in the slide hammering the frame and take down pin.

But, what is eaten up by changing leverage is just gone.  And what goes into the main spring just helps ensure good primer strikes.  Main spring increases do have some effect on trigger pull, but in a 1911 with a good trigger the change is minimal.

Get a flat bottom firing pin stop first.

Didn't post my message just the quote the first time.
I'll try to get one. I noticed that my Kimber is a series 80 type 1911, for what it's worth. Midwayusa didn't have one in SS, but brownells.com does.

Quote from: 10mmfan on November 02 2014 12:28:53 PM MST
You could try a flat bottom firing pin stop, my mainsprings are #25. But it does sound like you need extractor tuning.

What does a flat bottom firing pin stop do?
Also, will "tuning the extractor" reduce the ejected brass distance?
Thanks.

Hello all,

I need some replacement springs for my 1911 style Kimber SS Target II in (10mm of course).

My brass some how flies straight back and hits the range windows at head height 15 feet away,but does not hit me. I hand load 155gr to 1450 fps a lot. I am using a 20 pound recoil spring, all others are factory spec. I guess the factory standards for recoil and hammer spring are 18 and 23 pounds. I see Wolff has lots of choices. I heard on here a good idea was to increase the hammer spring to reduce the slide battering. How high should I go, 34 pounds, lol? My plan is to buy a 22 pound recoil spring and 28 pound hammer spring.
What are your thoughts?

One thing of note. I can not get them to work with the Hornady bullet feeder die. The collets cost $7 to replace if you feel like trying to sand them 0.001 inch.  The "A collet" is very rough and scratches the powder coat off on the edges; in addition to being too tight for lead.

0.4005 - 0.4010 inch

First off no pics, sorry. 155 gr Bayou Bullets powder coated.
I shot off 5 rounds from 4 different power levels ending with my (Hornady) max load of 12.9 gr of BluDot. They shot great! At 21 feet standing two hands I shot 3 of 5 bullets into one hole (12.9gr BluDot). I think I could have shot all 5 into one hole but I was at a public range, indoor with a 16 inch AR banging away 3 feet from my head.

I like what I hear. I bought a 100 each of 155 gr and 200 gr, plus some 9mm, 45, and 44. I don't know when I'll be able to load them up (this weekend is already filled) and shoot them but, I will report back when I do!

Great news! Thanks. I always work up new loads, but thanks for the advice. My load from above is from Hornady. I have been using WLP for all my pistol rounds to include 10mm auto, 45 auto, and 44 mag.

Thanks for the quick responses!
So if I go from copper to lead do I have to reduce the charge? Or can I just use the exact same load information?
Trying not to work up a load of five rounds each of 5 powder weights only to find out they all are no good because there is some magic formula to convert copper jacket loads to Hi-Tek lead loads I didn't know about.

I would like to buy some Hi-Tek coated lead bullets from Bayou Bullets. But I'm not going to waste any time or money till I have an idea of how to load them. I hear people have shot the Hi-tek coating to at least 1500 fps with no problems. My favorite 10mm load is 155 gr XTP with 12.9 gr of BlueDot (book velocity 1450 fps). If I switch to the Hi-Tek coated lead bullets from Bayou Bullets do I stick with 12.9 gr of BlueDot?