As I wasn't happy with the factory trigger in my new XDm 4.5" I decided to go with the trigger mentioned above. The PRP Extreme trigger seemed a little too light.
The PRP sear is nearly the same as the stock one. The face of the sear has a slightly different profile and more material on one side, basically a raised circular area around the pin hole. The area of the sear that the grip safety fits under is also a tad larger and required fitting. The PRP trigger looks to be an almost exact duplicate of the stock trigger. The sear safety is quite different from the stock part and that change in geometry is where most of the magic happens.
I assembled the sear safety, sear, and ejector without the sear spring to fit the width of the sear and clearance for the grip safety. This is not per the video, but makes it much easier. I had to remove almost all of the additional material from the side of the sear and some from the rear for grip safety clearance.
The trigger was easy as there is still a bit of over travel and no material needed to be removed from the stop. I'm pretty sure I could have left the stock trigger in and just used the lighter spring. This may be a change from earlier PRP replacement triggers.
What I ended up with is a lighter trigger with less takeup. The trigger resets with an audible click, but isn't really shorter. It has to move to it's normal forward position.
I have to disassemble it now and polish the side of the ejector that touches the sear. I also plan to polish the sides of the sear, trigger bar, takedown bar, etc. Basically everything that slides over something else.
Plan on using some patience if you install one of these, it took awhile.
Too bad Springfield didn't incorporate the lifting of the striker blocker into the grip safety. As it is, it's like a series 80 1911. A Schwarz type grip safety would have taken that action off of the trigger in the XDm.
I would recommend this to others, but it's a little bit pricey for what you get. If you're capable of refacing the existing sear yourself, all you really need is the PRP sear safety and lighter springs.
Very good info, Thanks Graybeard!
Happy to do it Ken, thanks.
I should also mention that you can put the trigger bar and trigger back in, without the locking block, during sear assembly fitting. Then put the takedown bar in it's notches,push it to the rear, and hold it there. This will allow you to pull the trigger and check sear movement, trigger reset, and grip safety clearance. Looking down from the top you can also see the trigger stop fit. This is also not in the video or written instructions.
Tomorrow 20# and 22# Wolff recoil springs will arrive and it'll be off to the range.
Looking forward to your findings
Thanks man!
Well it took me longer to get to spring testing than I expected. Interestingly, the 20# Wolff recoil spring was about 1.5" longer than the 22# spring. Same number of coils.
The XDm ran perfectly with both. I noticed a hint of primer drag with the stock spring. Not much difference with the 20# spring in primer drag or felt recoil. The 22# spring almost eliminated primer drag and felt recoil was better. I was also getting a pretty good dent in my empties, about 1/3 of the way down from the case mouth. Still getting the dent, but less pronounced with the 22# spring.
The trigger and 22# recoil spring made a huge difference in my ability to shoot this gun accurately offhand. I am now sure the sights are a little off, low and right point of impact. So it looks like a set of adjustable Dawson Precision night sights are in the future.
I really think this gun could benefit from a little more powerful recoil spring, especially with full house loads. Hopefully Wolff will make a 24# version in the future.