I'm pondering a few things...but can only do/get one thing for now.
I'm pondering on getting a 10mm to 40 cal conversion barrel for 135 about Alpha wolf to expand my ammo shoot abilities for my Glock 40. It would allow me to keep up with practice with the frame I would mostly use for hunting and such and use more easier to find cheaper ammo. Note I do not reload. (lack of gear because of lack of cash and a place to do it)
Another Pondering is try my hand at an 80% polymer 80 build for a glock compatible G20, I got spare barrels it can use as I piece together a slide. Just a hankering I been thinking of.
Any one have any suggestions, the first one seems more logical, the second is more wantable.
Conversion barrels are one of the best ways to maintain proficiencies because the frame, trigger feel and sight picture are the same...
Man, handloading can also offer many possibilities as well. Although it can take some time and cost of getting setup are there, the fact of be almost self sufficient can pay dividends in the long run.
While there are many press options, you can still produce quality match grade ammo on a single stage press. However if loading for rifle cartridges (Long Bottle Neck types) you will want a press with good strength and compound leverage for the resizing action.
If you go the 80% frame option take you time and understand the process in your head before you start each step. Take your time...
Best regards and good luck.
Conversion barrels are a great option. The Alpha Wolf will cost you about $140. There may be less expensive options if you goal is budget.
I bought four Glock frames on a deal a few years back. I got them for $50 each with free shipping, thinking I could build up cheap glocks. Hasn't worked out quite that well. By the time I pay for a budget barrel, budget slide and parts kits and allow for the cost of the frame, I am very close to my GSSF price on a new glock. If you wanna do it for fun, no reason not to, and maybe you already have parts that are a sunk cost. But if you have to buy major parts I question the budget proposition of this.
Finally, guys often over-estimate the cost of getting into reloading for two reasons. One they price what they want, not the actual minimum they need. Or, they don't understand what those actual minimum needs are. You could have a decent 10mm set up for $140.00.
Press (https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Lee+reloader+press&qid=1553275920&s=gateway&sr=8-1): $45.00
Ram Prime (https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-LP90106-Ram-Prime/dp/B00162UGQE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Lee+Ram+Prime&qid=1553275997&s=gateway&sr=8-1): $13.00
Dies w/powder scoop (https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-10-mm-Carbide-Silver/dp/B002SF6SWE/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Lee+10mm+dies&qid=1553276048&s=gateway&sr=8-2): $41.00
That set-up is not going to win you any speed reloading competitions, but it will load perfectly serviceable practice ammo for $100. You will also need a manual, and the Lee manual is great becuase it talks about how to do things like set COAL on a budget, saving the expense of a set of calipers (which are $20, so you decide).
For double that you could get a Lee single stage reloading kit with dies that would speed up certain steps, like priming and charging cases.
Point is, don't get caught thinking it is hundreds to thousands of dollars to start reloading. You can do it on the cheap and literally pay for the equipment on the first 1000 rounds.
my 2ยข
Thanks people.
I ordered the Alpha Wolf conversion barrel, also expand the ammo type I can shoot out of my Glock 40 was the deciding factor.
You can also start with used / inexpensive equipment just to get going, and then slowly upgrade individual components, E.g. start with a beam scale, and then pick up something like the GemPro-250. As for a press, I really like my RCBS Rock Chucker Press, as I am not concerned about churning out hundreds of rd's in an afternoon, and can be had for around $150.00. Personally, I prefer the single stage, as I can produce match grade ammo and have a blast doing it. Always remember, serious analness is your friend when reloading : )
Ken
Quote from: Roguer on March 23 2019 01:30:18 AM MDT
Thanks people.
I ordered the Alpha Wolf conversion barrel, also expand the ammo type I can shoot out of my Glock 40 was the deciding factor.
You can shoot 40 s&w out of the 10mm barrel anyway. No diff than 38 in a 357. Conversion barrel was a waste of ammo money.
Quote from: Overkill338 on April 06 2019 02:46:45 AM MDT
You can shoot 40 s&w out of the 10mm barrel anyway. No diff than 38 in a 357. Conversion barrel was a waste of ammo money.
YOU may be able to shoot .40SW in your 10mm bbl but THERE is a HUGE difference. 38/357 is a rimmed cartridge. .40/10 spaces off the case mouth. I use proper barrels.
Quote from: Pablo on April 06 2019 06:08:36 AM MDT
YOU may be able to shoot .40SW in your 10mm bbl but THERE is a HUGE difference. 38/357 is a rimmed cartridge. .40/10 spaces off the case mouth. I use proper barrels.
I always find discussions about .40/10 compatibility to be interesting. In my experience it boils down to two things...
1. Does your firearm extractor hold the round in place for the firing pin to properly impact it, without damaging the extractor? (essentially headspacing the round off the extractor instead of the case mouth)
2. Does firing .40 dirty the chamber enough to either prevent rounds of 10 from feeding/extracting properly or to change the way the pressures build in the chamber/barrel to the point they become unsafe?
I tend to take a pragmatic approach... 99% of the time, use the correct round for the barrel, with revolvers being a possible exception as they are generally designed to be compatible with both rounds by headspacing off the case rim or moon clip. Be conscientious when using the incorrect round - don't fire 300 rounds of .40 from your Glock 20 and then immediately start firing rounds of 10 without cleaning the chamber first. Know that, in a pinch, you have the option to shoot both.
Quote from: Pablo on April 06 2019 06:08:36 AM MDT
Quote from: Overkill338 on April 06 2019 02:46:45 AM MDT
You can shoot 40 s&w out of the 10mm barrel anyway. No diff than 38 in a 357. Conversion barrel was a waste of ammo money.
YOU may be able to shoot .40SW in your 10mm bbl but THERE is a HUGE difference. 38/357 is a rimmed cartridge. .40/10 spaces off the case mouth. I use proper barrels.
No, it's not a huge difference. It's the same damn thing, both are being held at the back. Waste your money all you want. "Proper" idiots make companies rich.
Quote from: Overkill338 on April 08 2019 10:52:13 AM MDT
Quote from: Pablo on April 06 2019 06:08:36 AM MDT
Quote from: Overkill338 on April 06 2019 02:46:45 AM MDT
You can shoot 40 s&w out of the 10mm barrel anyway. No diff than 38 in a 357. Conversion barrel was a waste of ammo money.
YOU may be able to shoot .40SW in your 10mm bbl but THERE is a HUGE difference. 38/357 is a rimmed cartridge. .40/10 spaces off the case mouth. I use proper barrels.
No, it's not a huge difference. It's the same damn thing, both are being held at the back. Waste your money all you want. "Proper" idiots make companies rich.
Held at the back? Sure. Totally different method. Do as you wish, but people who shoot rounds the gun and barrels each are recommended for are not idiots.
Keiichi nailed it when he commented on the design and strength of the extractor. There used to be a web-page that showed what happened to 40 S&W rounds fired in a 10mm that lacked the needed extractor strength, and it was not something I would subject my guns to except in exigent circumstances.
However, almost all the 10mm handguns on the market today have an extractor that is strong enough to keep the head against the breechface for at least a few rounds. Some will work indefinitely.
The only guns I know of that were designed to work that way were the Peter Stahls/Springfield Armory Omega "Linkless" 1911's in 10mm which had dual opposed extractors.
If the goal is economy of shooting, pick up a Lone Wolf conversion barrel. You will have "saved" back the cost of the barrel inside 1000 rounds of ammo, and you will know that you are operating within design parameters.
Alternately, spend the $139 on a Lee Reloading kit and earn the money back in about 650 rounds as well as learning to reload.
Quote from: Overkill338 on April 08 2019 10:52:13 AM MDT
Quote from: Pablo on April 06 2019 06:08:36 AM MDT
Quote from: Overkill338 on April 06 2019 02:46:45 AM MDT
You can shoot 40 s&w out of the 10mm barrel anyway. No diff than 38 in a 357. Conversion barrel was a waste of ammo money.
YOU may be able to shoot .40SW in your 10mm bbl but THERE is a HUGE difference. 38/357 is a rimmed cartridge. .40/10 spaces off the case mouth. I use proper barrels.
No, it's not a huge difference. It's the same damn thing, both are being held at the back. Waste your money all you want. "Proper" idiots make companies rich.
Sorry, but this is factually inaccurate. Big difference between a fully supported rimmed cartridge and a semi auto case intended to headspace off the mouth held only by the extractor. BIG difference. Try at your own risk. Well worth the conversion barrel to me.
For someone who doesn't reload this is a wise path to allow you to practice more. For the reloader, this only makes sense if you must shoot somewhere that you are likely to lose brass. I have a private range set up so I lose little brass. But if I had to shoot my 10mm at a public range often, and losing brass was a real likelihood, having a 40 conversion barrel would be an asset.