Sorry if this gets asked a lot. I've been away awhile. I have a new DE 10mm. I hear I might want to change the recoil spring to s 16 lb spring. Any advice/tips? I do all my own work. Thanks
1911 style guns are a different pistol from others. There are three things to consider with tuning them.
Recoil Spring
Main Spring
Flat Bottom Firing pin stop
Read the info here https://www.m1911.org/technic1.htm (https://www.m1911.org/technic1.htm)
I'm assuming it has a full length guide rod?
I ran my early blued DE with a 16lb recoil spring, Wilson full length guide rod, and Wilson Shok Buff for years. It worked fine. Then I got a chronograph. Some will argue this, but the little bit of extra lock time I got with the heavier recoil spring was apparent. Especially with hotter loads.
What are you hoping to accomplish with the change?
Not sure how to reply what I want to accomplish. I know 10's throw brass really far. Just looking to tone it down a bit? You know, just can't leave a gun in stock condition. 😜
I have a Remington R1 long slide 10mm that was throwing brass into the next county. I put a flat bottom firing pin block in it, a 25lb hammer spring, and the heaviest recoil spring Wolff makes and put a Wilson recoil buffer in it. The gun still throws brass into the next county but the recoil was reduced considerably and the violent reaction of the gun firing went to next to nothing. My 40SW Baby Eagle is more violent and recoils more. FWIW, I'm 6'4" of country boy and it's all I can do to rack the slide on it now. But I'm happy with it. I doubt there's much you can do to stop the brass from going into orbit.
I have the ruger 10mm and im running a 26lb recoil spring with buffer, 34lb hammer spring, flat bottom fps and cut and tuned ejector. 220gr at 1200fps loads send brass about 8-10ft.
Quote from: Scorpion on December 22 2018 05:45:14 PM MST
Not sure how to reply what I want to accomplish. I know 10's throw brass really far. Just looking to tone it down a bit? You know, just can't leave a gun in stock condition. 😜
A lighter recoil spring won't change anything in a positive way re-ejection distance. Probably just the opposite. As others have mentioned, flat bottom FPS might. But you'll probably feel more of a change in recoil.
Since its a brand new gun, I'd run it as is for awhile with different loads and then swap out whatever with a goal in mind. Its been my experience that most people that end up with reliability issues with their 1911s start by swapping out a bunch of stuff and that's where their troubles start. 1911 Forum is full of posts with people whining that their Kimbers are unreliable junk and somewhere in the story they'll end up saying how the first thing they did was swap out all the mim parts, changed springs, etc, before they ever shot it.
FWIW, I've run 16lb to 24lb recoil springs in my DE. No real difference in the distance brass flies. It's a potent round with a lot of slide speed. Brass is going to fly.
The only reliable way to reduce the ejection distance is to cut down the ejector. That may negatively impact reliability.
The only for sure no questions asked change I make to a 10mm 1911 is the flat bottom firing pin stop.