Hey all, I just got the Lee FCD. I took off the Lee O ring lock ring. Any idea why the o ring?
Also, running the case in, no problem. On the way out, the round hesitates then jumps and pops out, making the downstroke less smooth. Anyone experience this?
I don't know, but had a Hornady seat/crimp die (in 10mm Auto/40S&W) that did the same, horribly so. I sent it back to Hornady. When I got it back from them it did work better, but still did it. At this time I no longer use the Hornady die.
Bought some Redding dies for 10mm, and now, no more problems. I also actually just ordered the Redding taper crimp die for 10mm, and am just waiting for it to arrive. For the first time I'm going to do some seating and crimping in separate stages.
Which way is the floating crimp bushing supposed to go in? There is a small end with a good 45 degree chamfer and looking at the drawing it looks like that goes into the case mouth,but it seems the end with the large taper diameter goes into the case mouth.
Same thing here. Been doing it since new. I will be getting new dies soon. I have RCBS and Lee. Not fond of either one. I find the oring to be pretty lame by the way.
OK, first the LEE FCD Die the O-Ring is sort of a locking devise to lock the nut in position, Not the best locking but works if you keep it from turning to keep your setting as you move the die in and out of the press. The O-Ring is squeezed in to the recess of the nut and forced against the threads to secure the nut to the die body... ::)
The FCD floating crimp bushing ring...The small end goes to the top of the die and is adjusted by the top screw to add or subtract taper crimp pressure, The die body is set to just touch the shellholder at the top of the stroke. Adjust desired taper crimp. Too much crimp is not good...can cause loose bullets and over crimping can damage bullets especially plated types. ???
What you are feeling is the cartridge being squeezed down as it is being fully sized as you crimp the round, it does hold the rounds tightly and you have to pull it back out so that is what you are feeling when lowering the ram.
I like to seat bullets of semi autos to proper depth in one step and then taper crimp to finish in a seperate step.
BTW, I still use my RCBS Dies for 10mm, as said above I have my Seater/Taper Crimp die's lock ring set to make proper crimps when it is in contact with the press frame. However when seating bullets, I lift this die with a 1/8" spacer ring so no crimp is being applied.
I mainly use my LEE FCD with the guts removed as a "Pass-Thru Die" system... ;D
Great idea. Going to gut mine and do the same.
A little Hornady One Shot will smooth things out a lot.
Never a fan personally... I call it a solution to a non existent problem. :D
The crimp provided in the seater die will do all the crimping you will ever need. Too much can actually cause problems. You simply do not have any need to crush the case into the sides of a bullet...
My number one choice for dies is REDDING. But they are costly, Hornady and RCBS as well as Foster and Lyman make a very good product as well.
CW
I am with The_Shadow and CWLongshot. Not a fan of the die for crimping, and don't find much need for crimp beyond what my RCBS die provides. I do use it as a pass through sizing die.
There are instances of a Lee Factory Crimp taper die swaging down lead bullets so much it caused leading. Not an issue for roll crimp and I love my FCD for 30-06, 308 and 300 Win Mag.
After messing with it this weekend not a fan. I will keep it for pass thru