https://www.rkguns.com/rock-island-m1911-a1-gi-standard-10mm-auto-full-size-pistol-51508.html
Great gun for the price.
Super good price, Wow!
That didn't last long :o
Quote from: Sobrbiker on May 31 2018 07:04:55 PM MDT
That didn't last long :o
??
Still shows in stock for me...
Interesting deal and there is a Rural King near me. ::)
I know nothing about RIA guns. Does this model have a ramped barrel or standard 1911 style?
Just askin' for a friend.
In case they get more stock in...
;D
Quote from: Rick R on June 01 2018 11:47:59 AM MDT
Interesting deal and there is a Rural King near me. ::)
I know nothing about RIA guns. Does this model have a ramped barrel or standard 1911 style?
Just askin' for a friend.
In case they get more stock in...
;D
Full length guide rod and bull barrel.
So are the quite different from the A2 16 rd RIA?, other than less rd's
I ordered one, for that price you can't go wrong.
So what are the big differences?
"The Rock Island Armory M-1911 GI Standard is great representation of the original US GI combat issue 1911 and is chambered in 10mm and built with our exacting engineering standards. Fixed, Low Profile Sights and traditional smooth slim design are perfect for quick pull holster use. Finished with a tough parkerized matte coating and comes with a checkered rubber grips. The 5" barrel offers a balanced weight to assist with the accuracy and recoil that made the original 1911 design famous. True to all Rock Island 1911s, the GI standard comes with a crisp factory 4- to 6-pound trigger, making it a great experience right out of the box.
Features:
Model: 51508
Caliber: 10mm Auto
Barrel Length: 5"
Action: Single
Overall Length: 8.54"
Weight: 2.48 lbs.
Type: Semi-Automatic
Capacity: 8+1
Sights: Front: Fixed Mounted on Slot; Rear: Fixed Dovetail Mounted
Grip: Rubber
Safety: Thumb and Grip
Finish: Parkerized"
"Rock Island Armory 52009:
ROCK Island ARMORY
rock Ultra FS HC
• Full-Size frame with double-stack magwell
• Parkerized finish
• Full-length guide rod
• Dovetail-mounted Fiber-Optic front sight
• LPA MPS1-Type adjustable rear sight
• Narrow rear slide serrations
• Black textured G10 tactical grips
• Ambidextrous safety
• OAL: 8.75""
Super price on the GI, gosh, need to break down and order one soon I think : )
Think Rock single stack but with GI sights, GI safeties, GI Hammer, and a GI trigger.
Thanks man
Maybe they don't like me, shows out of stock.
Great deal though.i love my ultra FS, but for that price plus having slide milled for sights one could still have a great pistol!
Picked mine up from my FFL today. Overall I am impressed with the overall quality of it. Hope to go out this weekend and shoot it.
They show back in stock for $429.97. Still a great price.
Went out today and fired 16rds UW 200gr XTP with 0 issues. Undecided if the sights are going to work for me or not. May have the slide milled for new front sight. I want to shoot it somemore before I decided. Will also try some DT 200gr HC. Overall I will say it's a nice shooting 10mm option and feel recoil was while snappy was no problem. Think I may change the grips as well.
Yep, the price is amazing, hope to find in that price range
Newbie here, love to share my 10mm RIA experience.
My first 10mm 1911 was a 5" RIA Ultra FS model that I bought gently used for @$400.
I bought it because of the decent price and because as a long time handgun hunter, I hoped it would shoot well enough to use as a still-hunting platform for MI. whitetail deer.
My first thoughts upon racking the gun was that the recoil spring felt a bit light. The guy I bought it from said it was the factory spring which I later found out from both RIA & on my own spring gauge was only 18#. Upon firing I quickly realized my initial guestimate was correct because ejected brass was thrown 40feet at times, and this was just factory 180g fmj target loads!
Since I didn't want to beat up the frame so bad, especially with my desire to turn up the load heat with some much hotter hunting loads, I began to work on finding an acceptable weight recoil spring. I started out with a Wolff 20 lb spring on the stock Ultra FS FL recoil guide rod setup. I found that this weight spring would "grip" the RIA guide rod with the way that they designed the factory spring plug. This caused the slide to drag and the spring would bind, even sometimes bad enough to where the slide would sometime lock/jamb 1/2 way open!
I attempted to round over the end of the Recoil spring to prevent this grabbing of the full length guide rod but this also did not reliably fix the problem let alone even at 20#, ejected brass was still flying 30 to 40 ft.
Upon calling RIA about this issue I was told that the maximum spring pressure they recommended for that pistol was only 18#. To their credit, they did offer to have me send in the pistol to have a new recoil spring assembly installed but since 18# pounds was clearly not strong enough I decided that this was not a good fix. I surmised that the problem was their spring plug and how higher weight springs slipped past the groove at the bottom of the plug which was supposed to keep the open recoil spring end away from the articulating FL guide rod moving right next to it.
To make an already long story a bit shorter, I ended up getting rid of the RIA FL guide rod assembly completely. I bought a Wilson closed end reverse spring plug, the kind which is made to support the bottom side of the bushingless bull barrel, along with a Wilson HD GI length spring guide.
The only fitting modification to the Wilson plug was when I used my lathe to carfully change the reverse plug's shoulder depth so the it would fit deeper into the slide and so the the closed/barrel support end would come nearly out to the very end of the slide. Success!!!
With this setup, I can run up to 22# recoil springs with 100% reliabilty. 24# springs do bind up a little bit, but the flying brass and well controlled recoil impulse is just fine with the 22# weight.
The gun shoots pretty well for such an inexpensive piece too.
This is interesting, and hope to find out more. After contacting Shawn, RIA's Manager/Chief Gunsmith, he told me the RIA 5" FS HC 10mm factory guide rod weight was 22lbs, see below
22lb recoil
24lb Hammer spring
Thanks,
Shawn Fairbairn
Manager/Chief Gunsmith
Armscor/Rock Island Armory
1-775-537-1444 ext 2002
Shawn@rockislandarmory.com
www.rockislandarmory.com
www.advancedtactical.com
Quote from: 50BMG on June 13 2018 05:52:52 PM MDT
Newbie here, love to share my 10mm RIA experience.
My first 10mm 1911 was a 5" RIA Ultra FS model that I bought gently used for @$400.
I bought it because of the decent price and because as a long time handgun hunter, I hoped it would shoot well enough to use as a still-hunting platform for MI. whitetail deer.
My first thoughts upon racking the gun was that the recoil spring felt a bit light. The guy I bought it from said it was the factory spring which I later found out from both RIA & on my own spring gauge was only 18#. Upon firing I quickly realized my initial guestimate was correct because ejected brass was thrown 40feet at times, and this was just factory 180g fmj target loads!
Since I didn't want to beat up the frame so bad, especially with my desire to turn up the load heat with some much hotter hunting loads, I began to work on finding an acceptable weight recoil spring. I started out with a Wolff 20 lb spring on the stock Ultra FS FL recoil guide rod setup. I found that this weight spring would "grip" the RIA guide rod with the way that they designed the factory spring plug. This caused the slide to drag and the spring would bind, even sometimes bad enough to where the slide would sometime lock/jamb 1/2 way open!
I attempted to round over the end of the Recoil spring to prevent this grabbing of the full length guide rod but this also did not reliably fix the problem let alone even at 20#, ejected brass was still flying 30 to 40 ft.
Upon calling RIA about this issue I was told that the maximum spring pressure they recommended for that pistol was only 18#. To their credit, they did offer to have me send in the pistol to have a new recoil spring assembly installed but since 18# pounds was clearly not strong enough I decided that this was not a good fix. I surmised that the problem was their spring plug and how higher weight springs slipped past the groove at the bottom of the plug which was supposed to keep the open recoil spring end away from the articulating FL guide rod moving right next to it.
To make an already long story a bit shorter, I ended up getting rid of the RIA FL guide rod assembly completely. I bought a Wilson closed end reverse spring plug, the kind which is made to support the bottom side of the bushingless bull barrel, along with a Wilson HD GI length spring guide.
The only fitting modification to the Wilson plug was when I used my lathe to carfully change the reverse plug's shoulder depth so the it would fit deeper into the slide and so the the closed/barrel support end would come nearly out to the very end of the slide. Success!!!
With this setup, I can run up to 22# recoil springs with 100% reliabilty. 24# springs do bind up a little bit, but the flying brass and well controlled recoil impulse is just fine with the 22# weight.
The gun shoots pretty well for such an inexpensive piece too.
Kind of wondering why you didn't go with a Wilson FLGR kit? The only fitting needed is if the FLGR is a little long and I've never heard of one with spring binding issues. I've run one in my Delta Elite for almost 30yrs and tried recoil springs from 18.5 to 24lbs.
I applaud your machining efforts, but it seems like you chose the harder path. Especially when it comes to disassembly.
Maybe I am alone, but I find the FLGR guns harder to strip. Need a tool, and I don't need anything with a GI gun.
In fact, if it has properly slotted grip screws all I need is a cartridge with a rim to detail strip a GI 1911.
Quote from: Graybeard on June 14 2018 08:21:11 AM MDT
Kind of wondering why you didn't go with a Wilson FLGR kit? The only fitting needed is if the FLGR is a little long and I've never heard of one with spring binding issues. I've run one in my Delta Elite for almost 30yrs and tried recoil springs from 18.5 to 24lbs.
I applaud your machining efforts, but it seems like you chose the harder path. Especially when it comes to disassembly.
The RIA gun I have is the earlier model (sorry I don't have the number handy: mine has the shorter spring housing GI frame; no accessory rail up front), and from my recollection, the Wilson reverse plug in their "kit" wasn't going to fit the RIA slide I have, let alone the underside of the barrel would have been left unsupported by the Wilson traditional round spring plug too.
I agree, I also have a 10mm Delta Elite that I am running 24# springs in, but for some reason, MY RIA gun wouldn't run anything over 22# without dragging/binding issues. Having the full length rod in there actually made this condition worse (20# was the max w/FL rod and that was unreliable).
Maybe the inside of the RIA frame I have isn't quite as large/open as the Colt/Browning 1911 spec'd frames?
Also, even though I usually do fit FL guide rods in almost all my other 1911's (all .45ACP), in reality, that supposed "upgrade" is not a necessity to the design for reliability or accuracy. Many custom guns don't have FL rods (Nighthawk comes to mind).
Yea, it's a little different disassembling it in this configuration, but I wouldn't call it difficult.
I also hated that "bent paperclip"/spring capture way of disassembling the original RIA FL one piece rod setup.
When I do FL rods on my other 1911's (with barrel bushings) I like the 2 piece rods which allow the traditional method of disassembly once the outboard end of the FL rod has been removed.
To each his own I guess...
Quote from: Kenk on June 14 2018 01:44:19 AM MDT
This is interesting, and hope to find out more. After contacting Shawn, RIA's Manager/Chief Gunsmith, he told me the RIA 5" FS HC 10mm factory guide rod weight was 22lbs, see below
22lb recoil
24lb Hammer spring
Thanks,
Shawn Fairbairn
Manager/Chief Gunsmith
Armscor/Rock Island Armory
1-775-537-1444 ext 2002
Shawn@rockislandarmory.com
www.rockislandarmory.com
www.advancedtactical.com
The only thing I can say is that maybe the high-cap model has a different spring spec since it has the traditional barrel bushing/plug setup?
OR, since mine was an earlier gun, they've made changes since then to the spring plug on their FL rod assemblies that allows use of a heavier spring??? A small/fairly simple change to the design would do it (see below).
When I inquired to them, they definitely told me that the max they recommended for mine was 18#, and that's what my spring gauge read for the factory spring as well. Honestly, the gun lost all reliability with anything higher than 18#.
Believe me, I tried every which way from Sunday to make heavier springs work with the stock Ultra FS FL guide rod setup.
Rounding over the open spring end with a magnifying glass/hand file and even polishing it to be 100% "burr-less" with fine paper. Lubing the crap out of the guide rod/spring/cup during assembly. Nothing worked reliably for extended periods (the above mods helped initially, but after 15-20 rounds fired, it was the same old "bind/drag/bind")
I actually began wondering that there might be something else seriously wrong with the gun because it just didn't make sense to me. But with heavier than 20#, that spring end would ride against the side of the guide rod and when under pressure (@ full recoil) that sucker would dig-into the guide rod and then wedge itself between the rod and the bottom of the spring cup that the FL rod passed through.
I actually thought about making my own spring cup with a much deeper "groove" machined into the bottom to retain the spring so there would be ZERO way for the spring-end to interact with the surface of the rod itself. But that would have involved more specialized tooling and lathe operating ability than I had at the time (and still don't; LoL...).
I'm not trying to be overly critical of the RIA guns here, just sharing what I went through with my 10mm Ultra FS. Maybe it's changed since then?
As I said, for the money, the RIA's do very well. BUT the FL rod setup on the 10mm (if they are still like the one that I had) has definite issues that will not allow you to "easily" pump-up-the-volume without beating the crap out of the frame or chasing brass for a city block...
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 14 2018 09:48:27 AM MDT
Maybe I am alone, but I find the FLGR guns harder to strip. Need a tool, and I don't need anything with a GI gun.
In fact, if it has properly slotted grip screws all I need is a cartridge with a rim to detail strip a GI 1911.
You're not alone...
There sometimes IS great wisdom in the K.I.S.S. philosophy!
;D
There's a LOT of very nice/very expensive 1911 makers out there who think JMB's original design is just fine the way it is...
Look at how well that design withstood not only the original Defense Dept. testing but the longevity of the same design to stay in military service for so long!
I like the 2 piece FL rods for a 1911 generally, but in reality, it's more of a customization thing than anything done out of "necessity".
Just like adding custom wheels on your car. No extra speed or even a higher degree of safety is usually gained from that mod either... It just makes it "yours"....
50BMG, is your full length guide rod aluminum??? if it is that could problematic, i would change to steel or stainless steel. i don't know if anyone has mentioned it yet, but if you want to slow down the recoil impulse you need to look into upping your mainspring (hammer spring) and going to a square/flat bottom firing pin stop, if you have little to no radius your slide less mechanical advantage. your recoil spring has more to do with returning your slide into battery than it has to do with slowing the recoil impulse. i read a write up a guy did running a heavy mainspring and flat bottomed firing pin stop and no recoil spring at all, just to prove that the recoil springs main job wasn't to slow the slide. My Delta Elite that I had a full custom rebuild on and cut down to commander length is running a 26lb. recoil spring and a 23lb. mainspring and a firing pin stop with very little radius. hope this helps
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 14 2018 09:48:27 AM MDT
Maybe I am alone, but I find the FLGR guns harder to strip. Need a tool, and I don't need anything with a GI gun.
In fact, if it has properly slotted grip screws all I need is a cartridge with a rim to detail strip a GI 1911.
While it does make field stripping slightly more difficult the only tool you need for mine is a magazine, same as a standard spring cup. Of course a barrel bushing wrench works, too. Same with all my 5" Kimbers and true to JMB's original design. The base plate of the mag was always intended to be the tool for takedown.
To 50BMG: thanks for the reply. I've never owned an RIA and only shot a couple. Didn't know that was a bushingless model or that the specs were so different. I'm glad you got it going.
On my RIA I went with the flat firing pin stop and 23 or 24lb main/hammer spring with a 22 recoil spring. The flat firing pin stop makes a noticeable difference
Who did you order that from... Link if possible
Thanks
Ken
This is what went in my Rock:
http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/o/s-firing-pin-stop-ser-70-38/9/40-blue/
Thanks sqlbullet!
Is that different to install?
Not drop in. It will require a bit of filing. But very straightforward.
Also, way easier today. Back in the day they had one. It was a 45 Series 70 and if you had a 38 Super Series 80 you had to file all that as well. The first ones I did 8-9 years back were series 80, but you still had to file it to clear the ejector on a 38/9/40 gun. And to fit.
Thanks man!
Thanks sqlbullet for posting the link for me !
As stated pretty straight forward install... fit, file, fit, file some more.. a sharpie helps you to find the high spots when your getting close... color it with sharpie try to push it in and remove, file where marker rubbed off
Quote from: 10mm4ever on June 14 2018 12:16:24 PM MDT
50BMG, is your full length guide rod aluminum??? if it is that could problematic, i would change to steel or stainless steel. i don't know if anyone has mentioned it yet, but if you want to slow down the recoil impulse you need to look into upping your mainspring (hammer spring) and going to a square/flat bottom firing pin stop, if you have little to no radius your slide less mechanical advantage. your recoil spring has more to do with returning your slide into battery than it has to do with slowing the recoil impulse. i read a write up a guy did running a heavy mainspring and flat bottomed firing pin stop and no recoil spring at all, just to prove that the recoil springs main job wasn't to slow the slide. My Delta Elite that I had a full custom rebuild on and cut down to commander length is running a 26lb. recoil spring and a 23lb. mainspring and a firing pin stop with very little radius. hope this helps
It was a steel rod. The "real" problem with my particular gun was the fit between the rod and the spring cup, and the way the spring was left un-retained inside the cup itself. I surmised that if there was a bit of a groove milled into the bottom of a RI cup which kept the open end of the recoil spring away from the rod and the hole in the front of the cup that the rod passes through during a recoil cycle, that would have fixed it. To their credit RIA DID offer to replace the whole recoil assembly on mine, but I'm a tinkerer and besides losing the FL rod, I think my setup actually supports the bull-barrel/bushing-less system better (admittedly to a very small degree but HEY! LoL...).
WoW! That less-radiused firing pin stop solution is REALLY interesting!!! Thanks for posting that link sqlbullet!
You know, after reading about how this simple return to the original JMB FP Stop design helps so much, I vaguely recalled reading about that larger radius modification for the cavalry guys in one of my 1911 books. Whoda thunk that this simple change could change the timing of the gun enough, but it do!
HUGE benefits, especially when dealing with the much hotter 10mm round...
Reduce the slide speed by keeping it from moving for a an RPH more time...
As a wise man once said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krD4hdGvGHM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krD4hdGvGHM)
:)) :) :D ;)
I owned a RIA 1911 GI in 45acp for years ... I really enjoyed that pistol... Really good pistol
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 15 2018 09:02:00 AM MDT
This is what went in my Rock:
http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/o/s-firing-pin-stop-ser-70-38/9/40-blue/
Not to hijack the thread, but do you think a compact/officers size 1911 (.45ACP) could realize similar recoil reducing benefits with this same type firing pin stop modification?
Yep. The lighter the slide, the more this is needed.
The overall quality and finish of RIA's stuff is remarkable, and at their prices, gosh, it's hard to beat
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 03 2018 12:33:17 PM MDT
Yep. The lighter the slide, the more this is needed.
Pardon my ignorance but how does the firing pin stop affect slide speed?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
My question as well
Thanks
Quote from: Kenk on July 11 2018 03:58:31 AM MDT
My question as well
Thanks
Quote from: Mike D on July 10 2018 08:36:24 PM MDT
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 03 2018 12:33:17 PM MDT
Yep. The lighter the slide, the more this is needed.
Pardon my ignorance but how does the firing pin stop affect slide speed?
Hi Mike/Kenk,
I'll give this one a whirl.
Essentially, the original shape/non-chamfered firing pin stop keeps the slide in battery/"locked forward" just a hair longer than the slide equipped with a FP stop which has a more chamfered profile.
This very slight delay allows the barrel to bleed off a little bit more pressure before the slide starts its' motion to the rear. Thus, slower slide speed.
The original shape/non-chamfered firing pin stop does this by allowing the main spring/hammer spring to work more effectively in keeping the slide locked in battery for the slightly longer period because the sharper edge where the stop meets the hammer face makes the initial force required to start the slide moving backward greater.
Get it?
I just received 5 different oversized FP stops from EGW to do this to both of my 10mm 1911's and to 3 of my .45ACP guns of different sizes. If it works as well as I am told, I'll be needing a few more oversized stops to do the rest of my 1911's...
50BMG nailed it. The firing pin stop controls where force is applied to the lever relative to the fulcrum. Sharper corner, closer to the fulcrum, less force multiplication.
I am a reasonably strong guy. Raised on a farm tossing around 80lb bails of hay and all that. Worked on a bunch of cars. Hand and upper body strength is not an issue for me. Racking the slide on a 1911 with a flat bottom firing pin stop is a bit of a chore for me.
Quote from: 50BMG on July 11 2018 01:40:23 PM MDT
Quote from: Kenk on July 11 2018 03:58:31 AM MDT
My question as well
Thanks
Quote from: Mike D on July 10 2018 08:36:24 PM MDT
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 03 2018 12:33:17 PM MDT
Yep. The lighter the slide, the more this is needed.
Pardon my ignorance but how does the firing pin stop affect slide speed?
Hi Mike/Kenk,
I'll give this one a whirl.
Essentially, the original shape/non-chamfered firing pin stop keeps the slide in battery/"locked forward" just a hair longer than the slide equipped with a FP stop which has a more chamfered profile.
This very slight delay allows the barrel to bleed off a little bit more pressure before the slide starts its' motion to the rear. Thus, slower slide speed.
The original shape/non-chamfered firing pin stop does this by allowing the main spring/hammer spring to work more effectively in keeping the slide locked in battery for the slightly longer period because the sharper edge where the stop meets the hammer face makes the initial force required to start the slide moving backward greater.
Get it?
I just received 5 different oversized FP stops from EGW to do this to both of my 10mm 1911's and to 3 of my .45ACP guns of different sizes. If it works as well as I am told, I'll be needing a few more oversized stops to do the rest of my 1911's...
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 11 2018 02:34:04 PM MDT
50BMG nailed it. The firing pin stop controls where force is applied to the lever relative to the fulcrum. Sharper corner, closer to the fulcrum, less force multiplication.
I am a reasonably strong guy. Raised on a farm tossing around 80lb bails of hay and all that. Worked on a bunch of cars. Hand and upper body strength is not an issue for me. Racking the slide on a 1911 with a flat bottom firing pin stop is a bit of a chore for me.
Makes sense.
Thanks Gentlemen.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
So would the firing pin stop apply to the Rock Ultra FS HC 10mm as well?
It is one of the only upgrades/changes I think should be made to ALL 1911's regardless of whether they are having issues or not.
In addition to slowing down the slide, it changes the felt recoil profile to more of a shove than a hit. The only downside is difficulty in racking the slide when the hammer is down.
Standard capacity, high capacity, new, old, I put flat bottom firing pin stops in them all.
Here is a great article about them.
http://rangehot.com/reduced-radius-firing-pin-stop-1911/
Hey sqlbullet,
Is there a certain one for that weapon I should look for?, as well as who sells them? / the cost
Thanks my Friend
Ken
EGW Series 70 38/9/40:
http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/o/s-firing-pin-stop-ser-70-38/9/40-blue/
Some fitting will be required.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RwFpQQU7HM
Thanks!
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 12 2018 11:47:32 AM MDT
EGW Series 70 38/9/40:
http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/o/s-firing-pin-stop-ser-70-38/9/40-blue/
Some fitting will be required.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RwFpQQU7HM
I finally got a chance to fit the FP stop to my RI 10mm gun last night. It was surprisingly easy. I only needed to remove about .004" total from the width and @ .002" from the thickness to make it fit the slide well.
My only suggestion is to be patient and take it slow so you can be as precise as possible and get the best/tightest fit as possible.
I took out the extractor and got it to fit the slide first, then I replaced the extractor and had to do a minor bit of fitting to make it work from there, but the fitted EGW stop fits WAY nicer than the factory RI one did. I'm happy. now I've gotta shoot!
One thing I noticed last night is that the EGW stop came with a very-very slight "round" to the lower/back edge.
Have you seen the latest EGW iterations sqlbullet? Do you think that factory edge is relieved enough to accommodate the hammer face?
I rounded over the one I did last night just a little bit more than what it came with, but since I have 4 more FP stops to do, I'm wondering if I am over-analyzing this detail and maybe I can get away with how they come???
Thanks man!
The last one I bought was square as square. Like a milling machine had just cut it.
I radius them about 1/32", but I don't measure it. I just break the edge two or three times with a fine file, then polish it on some denim. If I got one that had any break to it at all, I would probably just hit it with some emery cloth and then denim and call it good.
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 17 2018 10:00:55 AM MDT
The last one I bought was square as square. Like a milling machine had just cut it.
I radius them about 1/32", but I don't measure it. I just break the edge two or three times with a fine file, then polish it on some denim. If I got one that had any break to it at all, I would probably just hit it with some emery cloth and then denim and call it good.
Then maybe that's what I'll try on the next one...
There is just a "hair" of a round to it to start with; maybe 1/32" as you suggest. What I ended up adding wasn't much, that's for sure (I did 2 or 3 rounding "drags" across a fine grit file's face; basically just enough to knock the bluing off the edge and round it over a hair more.
I'll try and take a picture of one of the remaning ones to see if it has the same amount of factory edge rounding as the one I did last night. Maybe EGW is doing this little bit of work for us now?
Quote from: 50BMG on July 17 2018 01:48:32 PM MDT
Maybe EGW is doing this little bit of work for us now?
Maybe. :D
I did the Delta Elite FP stop mod. this evening.
Turned out to be an even easier job than the RIA 10mm I did last night since I didn't need to change the thickness dimension on this one at all and I only needed to narrow down the overall width by @ .002".
It was barely a one beer job.
Nice and snug fit with zero movement side to side (that's what she said! LoL..)
:o
I took a picture of the EGW oversized stop before filing it to make it fit and it does appear that there already is a very slight radius machined into the lower edge of them as supplied.
See what you think:
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l528/PJS50BMG/EGW%201911%20Firing%20Pin%20Stop/EGW.Delta.FPStop.1_zpsk1gi853b.jpg)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l528/PJS50BMG/EGW%201911%20Firing%20Pin%20Stop/EGW.Delta.FPStop.2_zps6ipb9hwk.jpg)
Since radius of that edge is very, very slight, I also gave this one a few drags across a file to round it over a little bit more, but still not a lot.
Also, even though I still have the heavier recoil springs in both guns, I haven't really noticed a huge difference in the start-up force needed to manually get the slides moving back from the battery position.
I'm hoping that I'll be able to knock down the recoil spring weights by a few pounds after seeing what happens when I put a few full-house loads through them.
Tomorrow night, my Para P.14 Hi-Cap .45ACP gets its' new stop.
Yeah...That amount of break is what I shoot for. I would install that.
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 18 2018 08:02:50 AM MDT
Yeah...That amount of break is what I shoot for. I would install that.
O-Tay Bankie,
I'll try that on the next 2...
Ok, my Para P14.45 and Colt Defender are both now sporting EGW FP stops.
All the EGW stops were of excellent quality and 100% uniform out of the 6 I ordered. As sqlbullet surmised, the radius
on the factory machined lower edge seems to be just fine too.
I think it's interesting that both of my Colt guns (Delta & sub-officer's size Defender) didn't require any thickness alterations to get the oversized FP stops to fit while the RIA and Para guns needed a small amount of filing for thickness. I have a stainless Commander sized Colt I'll probably end up doing at some time, so hopefully that one will follow suit and be as easy as the other 2.
The 3" Defender is marked as a "90's Series" gun, so that one required me to file the lower tab of the new FP stop for width by @ .040" to clear the more inboard mounting position of the ejector on that one. If I didn't have to do this, I literally would have been done fitting the FP stop on this one in about 5 minutes!
Another thing I noticed between all 4 guns done thus far.
The only one with a noticeable increase in start-up force to manually rack the slide is the Para 14.45 with its standard 16# recoil and mainspring.
With the 10mm guns, which are still sporting pretty heavy recoil springs, I really don't feel a ton if any difference in initial racking force. The Defender, with its super short comparatively low mass slide and the naturally heavier dual recoil spring which goes along with that also seems to hide the extra start up force which realistically should be there.
I honestly think it's just a matter that I'm expecting the greater racking force already, so I just get it done.
I guess it could also be an incremental thing where the extra force required is dictated by the fulcrum point which is the same for all 4 types/calibers. Adding that small/constant increment to a lower force setup is more noticable than it would be when added to a system which requires much greater force to operate.
Can't wait to shoot!