I have about 4,000 165gr Montana Gold bullets left over from when I was shooting a 40S&W in IDPA and USPSA some years ago.
Planning on running a 20SF in the games next season and working up a load with 'em. I've also got a few hundred MG 180 FMJ's. Anyone use Blue Dot for these?
Thinking about 9.5-9.8gr of Blue Dot (Win brass and CCI 300's). Planning on something around 1,100fps or so. Lyman lists 9.1 min and 10.2 max with a 165 FMJ.
Does this sound like it'd be about right? Certainly not looking for mousefarts, but between practice and games, the gun's gonna get a fairly decent round count in the next few years. I've got heavy 44's and 45 Colt's for when I want to punish myself. ;)
I rather like the thought that I can use the same firearm in games as well as woods walking (using 200gr WFNGC's for that).
Not really looking for other bullet weights and powders as these are what I have on hand and I want to get through these first.
Basically just wondering what folks' thoughts are.
Thanks!
I was testing my Lyman Devastator cast HP's
Glock 29 with factory barrel 3.78"
Temps 99F
Lyman 156.0 gr Devastator HP 0.401" 1.255"
Power Pistol 7.2 gr CCI 350
Velocity 1009-1053 fps
Primers OK, leading light
Also look at this Michagan Ammo pull down...
http://10mm-firearms.com/factory-10mm-ammo/michigan-ammo-company-ammo-165gr-jhp/ (http://10mm-firearms.com/factory-10mm-ammo/michigan-ammo-company-ammo-165gr-jhp/)
Quote from: LeMat on December 14 2012 06:15:01 PM MST
I have about 4,000 165gr Montana Gold bullets left over from when I was shooting a 40S&W in IDPA and USPSA some years ago.
Planning on running a 20SF in the games next season and working up a load with 'em. I've also got a few hundred MG 180 FMJ's. Anyone use Blue Dot for these?
If it were me, I'd be loading those up as 40 S&W (since that's the load level you're targeting, 165 @ 1100fps), and just run those through your 20SF. Yes, it's safe, and works great. If you prefer you can load them long, and still use 40 S&W brass. This is assuming you've got a large supply of 40 brass, and probably less 10mm brass.
Blue Dot will work fine.
I've been pondering that as I have two 5 gallon buckets of 40 brass laying around from days of old.
I just don't know if I want to spend the money on a conversion barrel right now. I've got 300 pieces of 10mm Win brass at the moment. In fact, 10 brass is the only thing I've had to purchase in order to get this thing running. That was one of the factors in my decision to go with a 20. I really have no interest in the aftermarket barrel thing.
I really wish KKM had a "blued" option on their barrels without that silly giant laser engraved mess on the chamber hood. Or even a carbon barrel in the white that I could blue or get park'd myself. Guess I could always get the stainless coated......
Wait a minute......... you're talking about just running 40's in the stock 10mm barrel? I read some on that and it sure seemed divided between "Works great, no problem!" and "You're essentially an idiot for even thinking such a thing!". I have to admit I'm a bit nervous about the round not being able to headspace properly. Could you tell me a little more about that?
Just a little background - I've been reloading for almost 30 years. 9mm, 40S&W, 38 Spcl, .357, 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 41 mag, 44 mag, 454 Casull and a couple rifle calibers. I've never owned, much less reloaded for 10mm and figured why not get advice from folks on a forum dedicated to the cartridge. :)
Quote from: LeMat on December 14 2012 11:04:47 PM MST
I just don't know if I want to spend the money on a conversion barrel right now.
To clarify, you do not need a conversion barrel to shoot 40 S&W
in a Glock 20 or 29. The extractor provides the headspace support. If a round were to jump in front of the extractor during feeding, the Glock firing pin is not long enough to contact the primer.
Other firearms chambered in 10mm do have longer firing pins, and will fire a 40 S&W round that is in front of the extractor, creating what some feel is a dangerous situation. This is not the case in a Glock. Of course, this assumes you have an extractor in good condition that won't let the round jump the extractor when the firing pin hits.
As a side note, something a few of us here do when handloading, myself included, is to load 10mm ammo using 40 S&W brass, but to 10mm OAL (1.25-1.26"). Obviously this only works with longer bullets. Case capacity is the same, the differences are the smaller primer and less neck tension. I've found this amounts to roughly 50 fps difference, between using 40 S&W and 10mm brass for the same load (lower velocity and pressure with 40 S&W brass).
Re: the aftermarket barrel, I got that about halfway through my post. :lol:
A buddy of mine used to load his 40's long in his STI for USPSA. I believe he used to do it for reliable feeding if I remember right.
It sounds like the only real upside is if one has a boat load of 40 brass and not much 10 brass. Are there any other benefits of doing things this way?
Just the brass mainly. If you had a bunch of 10mm brass there wouldn't be a big advantage. Loaded as 40 S&W (short) it will take a little less powder to get the performance you're looking for, but that's about it.
Thanks for the info Yondering. :D
I would go with the conversion barrel. In fact, that's what I did. It pays for itself in only a few hundred rounds, less if you aren't reloading either caliber.
I've fired a total of 3 .40S&W rounds out of my Glock 20 with the 10mm barrel, and out of those, 2 had ruptured primers and the other one failed to eject. I wouldn't recommend doing it, especially for a match. On the other hand, I've fired almost a thousand rounds of .40 out of my KKM conversion barrel, and it has performed flawlessly, even with 900fps 180gr loads and a 24lb recoil spring.
If you've got that much .40 brass, and only 300 pieces of 10mm brass, it's definitely worth your time and money to get the conversion barrel. Plus, less chance of things going wrong.
Quote from: Turo on December 20 2012 06:08:18 PM MST
I've fired a total of 3 .40S&W rounds out of my Glock 20 with the 10mm barrel, and out of those, 2 had ruptured primers and the other one failed to eject.
If that's true, something is wrong with your setup, probably a worn or badly shaped extractor. A properly functioning 20 in good condition will not do that. IMO, if you're having extractor issues with 40 S&W brass, you're on the verge of having issues with 10mm brass as well.
Quote from: Yondering on December 20 2012 08:54:02 PM MST
If that's true, something is wrong with your setup, probably a worn or badly shaped extractor. A properly functioning 20 in good condition will not do that. IMO, if you're having extractor issues with 40 S&W brass, you're on the verge of having issues with 10mm brass as well.
Gun is practically brand new, so I'm pretty sure it's not a worn extractor. I don't have any issues shooting .40 out of a .40S&W conversion barrel, and I've never had any issues shooting 10mm out of the stock barrel, just trying .40 out of the 10mm barrel.
I've seen lots of other people have issues shooting .40 out of a completely stock glock 20, so I'm pretty sure my experience isn't out of the ordinary. That's why I suggested not relying on it to work properly for everyone.
If your extractor is in good condition and working properly, there is no reason you'd see issues with 40 S&W in the 10mm barrel. It will either work fine, or not fire at all. The only way it could fail to eject or blow primers (unless it's an ammo issue) is if the extractor is allowing the case rim to slip past when the firing pin impacts the round.