Anyone upgrade their Colt DE with an extended beavertail? How did it turn out? What brand beavertail did you use? Any other modification required beside filing edge of the frame? Please add pictures if possible of outcome. Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had mine installed by Evolution Armory using a Harrison series 80 beavertail:
https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/extreme-service-beavertail-grip-safety.
The proper fitment of a beavertail is non-trivial. Consider purchasing/borrowing the Harrison fitting tool and studying up on the process. The tool is at: https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/bt-101-instructions-for-use
CYa!
Mako
[attachment deleted by admin]
I have no feedback on the beavertail, but question filing on the frame versus the part you are trying to install. If you ever decided to put the original beavertail back on there would be a gap.
I confess that I have never owned or modified a 1911 series pistol so I don't know what it exactly takes to do this.
I have installed two Ed Brown High Ride Beavertail safeties, both on Para Ordnance guns that had original style grip safeties (eg the tang and not a beavertail).
As CurtisM mentions, if you install this style of safety, then it is a one way only install.
First, you have to radius the frame. I bought a jig from Brownells to facilitate this, though you can free-hand it. The jig just makes it very easy to get a nice tight seem and a perfect radius. However, be aware you should stop filing a few thousandths short of the jig and then fit and file the rest of the way for a perfect "hairline" seam.
Once you have the frame clearanced for a basic fit, they you have to remove additional metal for the "high ride" aspect. I did it all with files, relying heavily on some fine radius files. Go really slow, and remember to stop just a thousandth or two short so you still have some metal to work with as you move to sandpaper. Also, keep checking the work with the thumb safety both on and off. I removed a bit more metal than I wish I had, but didn't realize it until I snicked the safety off. I did better the second time. I like to go up to 600 grit before I declare it ready for any finish work.
On the first gun I did, a stainless steel P16-40, I finished with a bead blast. The gun was a real sows ear when I bought it.
(http://fellingfamily.net/images/origRigh.jpg)
In addition to the grip safety, I filed, out all the scars in the frame and slide, replaced the mainspring housing with a flat design, went to a non-ambi safety, removed the magwell and ditched the plastic magazine catch and trigger for stainless and aluminum respectively. I then bead blasted the frame and sand blasted and cerakoted the slide.
(http://fellingfamily.net/images/theP_Pair.jpg)
The P-12 is still a work in progress. The goal is a 1911 CCO with a high capacity frame in 10mm. In the picture above the frame/lower is completed except for the final finish work, which will be parkerized and then cerakote black. The upper is an STI slide with a Schumann barrel. I have run into a number of issues that are just beyond my comfort level, and have left the gun in parts in my safe for about 5 years now. I gotta get back on that one.
Hope that helps!