I have a problem getting brass where I live, have come across someone selling PMC 10 mm multi fired brass, He says that when reloaded that they will only chamber in a Glock, he has tried an STI Trogan, Colt Delta Elite and S&W 610 revolver, is there any problems with the use of PMC brass or are they an acceptable case, and the problem is simply his dies, or the Glock chamber causing cases to become enlarged. Intend to shoot in a Glock any way, just checking that PMC cases don't have a bad rep out there among those who reload, thankyou
Don't buy them... Properly size brass should fit in any gun.... Yes glocks are looser than most by a few .001+.
It may just be the brass is to hard.....buy some Starline brass and enjoy quality reloading brass
To add to that, you can get Starline on their web site, and at a lower price than anyone (AFAIK) else resell it.
I will echo what all the others have said all along about Starline brass. I was just pricing it and it is 16.2¢ ea when you buy 1,000 of them which are brand new.
forgot to mention I live in Australia, starline hard to find, runs around 30 cents US a case when you can, factory winchester silvertips around US$ 1.50 a shot, and that has to come from 1000 miles away. Use gun (Glock) for shooting pigs in the rainforest, lose nearly all my cases, just wondering if I can get by with these PMC cases without any inherent problems with the brass, have tried to import once fired from the US but you guys have ITAR which made it nearly impossible for me over here.
If it is all you can get... then go for it.
The brass may need full length resizing to be used in all guns. As to hard brass, two things, you may not get as many loading ( not a major concern as you stated you loose most ) and will the case retain its taper for holding the bullet firmly.
So if you reload them for in a glock only , just use your barrel as a case gauge for functionality and do a good press test after loading some.
( i always load and press the loaded round against the bench hard to see if any bullet setback to make sure taper is holding )
As a PS... I have some starline cases with over 10x loaded with warm loads, no issues
Bayan Dundee, if you are set on using those used brass here is what you will need to do to rejuvenate them to be reused in any 10mm gun. See this Video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3oei3LVB-k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3oei3LVB-k)
Its called Pass-Through sizing, this is where the brass is pushed up through a die that resizes the case completely.
There are two dies that can be used the Redding GRX Die for 40S&W and 10mm
http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/3-g-rx-push-thru-base-sizing-die (http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/3-g-rx-push-thru-base-sizing-die)
I personally use the LEE FCD with its guts removed and LEE sells a Bulge Buster Kit to go along with them to do a Pass through sizing operation. Why do I use the LEE? It has a carbide sizing ring and I already had a bullet push pin from a bullet sizing kit that to push the brass up and through.
You will have to understand that brass does get work hardened and as such it may not hold a bullet due to spring back after sizing. Annealing can help restore the brass to a softer state again.
SMILED brass is not salvageable or repairable.
Hope this info is useful to you...
So, this may end up being a dumb and dangerous idea. But given your very limited options....
I would try annealing the case mouths. I would deprime the cases, stand them up on a cookie sheet and fill the sheet with water to about 1/2" (12-13 mm). Then I would put them in the oven set on 500° F (260° C) for about an hour. Keep an eye on the water level and remove the tray if the water starts to boil.
There are two concerns with this.
1. If you don't protect the case head, then you could have a kaboom from brass that is too soft.
2. Since you are annealing all the way down to the water line, you will have an abrupt transition from annealed to un-annealed brass. This may result in splitting.
This is not something I would suggest if there is any other option. Since you seem to not have much option, I would try it with 10 cases. And I would load very low and work up.
Thanks guys for all your suggestions, having the guy send me a few for a test before I buy them off him, had a felling that they have expanded in the glock chamber and it was the base causing the problem as it is not fully resized when reloading, did think I might need to get a full size push through die, need a big order to get my next load of stuff from the US, cheaper to post it from there then to buy it here. Have heard that there are better dies then the lee bulge buster to do this, but will the lee be good enough for what I need to do, don't think they have the smile in them, they have been loaded just high enough to get power factor for IPSC wit 175 Gn bullets, whatever that would be
As mentioned above; I personally use the LEE FCD with its guts removed, I already had a bullet push pin (that fits in place of the shell holder of standard presses) which was from a bullet sizing kit that to push the brass up and through.
Why do I use the LEE? It has a carbide sizing ring and was purchased originally for a finish crimp die. (I never liked it for that purpose!)
I have a Lee turret press with a FCD but no pushrod, has anyone made one up out of something like a stainless bolt, have looked and would have to buy the whole bulge buster kit locally, comes to around 40 US$ here, seems all I need is a pushrod to have a go
I made one from a bolt. I don't have a lathe, so I rigged one with a clamp assembly for my old craftsman "big" drill and then chucked the bolt in that. Worked it with some files for about 15 minutes until it fit.
Works fine.
I would start with a 10mm bolt.
Some have even used a bolt glued inside a cartridge casing that fits a shell holder...38spl case with a fitted steel piece of rod works well.
However I had one of these bullet push pins from a LEE bullet sizing kit and is what I use
(http://leeprecision.com/images/T/xctmpoPcM2f.png)
Does the Lee crimp die size to the same size as their Bulge Buster.
I already have an RCBS crimp die on my tool head (got it as a gift), so I really don't need the crimp die and they are within $1.00 of each other in price.
If you didn't have the crimp die, it could work double duty.
Just wondering if they both crimp to the same diameter.
The Factory Crimp Die with the carbide ring in the bottom is what I use and that is what the bulge buster kit works with...
The bulge buster kit, is only a push pin,screw in thread protector to funnel the brass up and a catch can that sits on top the FCD die with the thread protector in place of guts...
I didn't need the bulge buster kit as I just catch the brass as the start coming out the top anyway and I already had had the pus pin from a previous bullet sizer kit. It has served me very well doing 10mm / 40S&W / 357Sig / 9x25Dillon cases. Using the 45ACP FCD I pass through size them as well as using the 380ACP FCD I do those too just for the extra insurance of reliability.
I have pass trough sized 9mm but using the 9mm makarov / 9x18 but they are tight, I want to open the carbide ring up slightly because it doesn't need that much sizing.
Thanks for the reply.