First time pistol owner, first time poster.
Just picked up my Glock 40 yesterday and I am looking at tweaking a few things, my question is if I dare do them myself.
First: .40 S&W barrel.
Based on cost and availability, poking holes in cans with .40 S&W ammo will pay for itself faster than buying the equipment to reload. I am 99.99% sure I can handle this one as I can field strip without issue but figured I toss it out there in case there is something I missed.
Second: Slide Release.
Not really a fan of the flush profile. Maybe I have delicate girly hands but I cant get the leverage to release the slide without racking it. Looks like I would have to dig into the guts more than a field strip, betting I could do it, but less sure.
Third: Trigger
Would like the trigger safety to be flush with the shoe when depressed and if i can shorten the reach a touch it wouldn't go unnoticed. I am really hesitant to start messing with the trigger, but I don't want to leave it as it is. It might be that its the part that makes it go bang and I don't want to screw it up.
I am thinking of going to Lone Wolf for all the parts, but I am open to suggestions.
Labrat198, Welcome to the forum! Give yourself some time with the new G-40 to see how it performs overall...Just to be sure it is good to go!
If and when you start changing things do one project at a time testing to be sure it doesn't affect the performance and reliability!
Recoil systems are becoming more available for the 4th gen guns an usually help with the higher impulse rounds.
Good luck! :D
You will do more shooting, become more proficient and save a lot of money over the long term by reloading your own ammunition.
I'm with you on the slide release. It is too flat. I should replace mine too.
Here's what I tried with my G40 trigger. First, I gave it a "25 cent trigger job" which you can find on YouTube. That didn't satisfy, so I installed a Ghost 3.5 lb connecter. Better but still not the way I wanted it. I finally just ordered and installed a Zev Tech Fulcrum fully adjustable trigger. Made a big difference.
Other mods I have done: installed a KKM barrel so I could could shoot hard cast lead 200 grain boolits for bear defense. I installed a stainless steel recoil spring assembly from the Glockstore simply to add weight to the pistol. I installed a Lone Wolf extended slide lock to make takedown a little easier, installed a Dawson Precision adjustable rear sight and fiber optic front sight, installed a Glockstore Thug Plug to add weight to the pistol and finally added a Taylor Force brass magazine weight again to add weight to the pistol.
There are many mods you can perform on these pistols and they are very easy to work on.
Put a couple mags worth through it now and I can say I am pleased with its over all performance. The full power rounds certainly did have some more snap to them than the lighter 10mm rounds.
Sounds like I should not need to have any gunsmithing for any of the mods as I experiment.
Worked the Math on the reloading and depending on how spendy of a rig I get I would be looking at about 2-3000 rounds in before I broke even. Could break even with a .40 S&W barrel after about 600 rounds, so the question is can I justify another new hobby? I know a few people that reload so I may get the die set and use there equipment to see if its something I really enjoy. If it feels like a chore then its not worth it no matter how much I save.
Welcome to the forum!
I never feel like time at my reloading bench is work or a chore. It enables me to spend more time shooting, shooting more proven loads for my guns, and checking each round to ensure consistency. I work long days and sometime nights at my real job, and though it is rewarding it wears you down at times. So time at the bench never seems like work.
Whatever decision you make, welcome to the 10mm addiction!
The good thing about handloading is it can be done in steps...
Brass cleaning and preparation such as pass through sizing and regular sizing and depriming.
Then there is the case mouth flaring to make the bullet start easier and straighter so as not to shave off bullet material.
I use a hand primer and have cases that are bagged up ready to load.
When I am ready I will sit and hand weigh charges of powder, as I pour that into the case, setting it in the shell holder, I drop another charge into the scale pan to settle. Place a bullet on the casing and seat without any crimp applied.
Once all cases have been charged and bullet seated to proper COAL, I run them through the crimp setup to finish.
Yes it is slower than a progressive in some ways, but my ammo is Match Grade consistent. Because the charges are precisely weighed I know that there is no over or under or double charges...This is very reassuring when pulling the trigger on the upper end loading... I am the Quality Control! ;D