Ok, so this post is partly for me to show off my finally complete 10mm system, and partly for me to experiment with including images in posts... 8)
Update (2016-08-12): My range ammo of choice has changed from Armscor 180gr to Sig Sauer 180gr, since they recently started producing 250 round bulk boxes that work out to a few cents cheaper per round than the Armscor. The Sig stuff is great ammo, and groups from my guns almost as well as the Armscor does.
The lower on the MT is from a G40, so naturally the G20 in the image is also a G40 if I want...
I can add details for the various accessories, and mods I've done to the MT and two mags, if folks are interested.
Ammo of choice is:
Team Never Quit 155 grain Solid Copper Hollow Point for Home Defense, etc. due to it having the best avg groups out of both the MechTech and the pistols.
Armscor 180 grain FMJ for range work and fun.
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/KeiichitheOtaku/PDWs_Feb_2016_zpsr3du8zrc.jpg)
Edit: Ok, so here's what's on the MT...
Standard equipment from MechTech - Telestock, quad rail (6 lb 12 oz without G20 lower)
G20 lower (or G40, depends on which pistol I want to have assembled) + Glock Block (5.2 oz)
Crimson Trace Rail Master green laser (0.8 oz)
Magpul Angled Foregrip (3 oz) (modded - I dremaled out about an inch of the the plastic ledges that grip the rail so that it can be mounted over the front portion of the pistol lower, allowing room for the laser)
Bushnell TRS-25 (3.8 oz)
Red dot AR riser (2.2 oz)
Rail pad x4 (1.2 oz) (two are modded to fit over the ends of the side rails, so provide a comfortable grip)
Magpul RSA sling mount (1.1 oz)
Magpul single point sling (8.2 oz)
Total weight without the sling attached or a magazine inserted is 7 lb 14 oz.
Full up with one of the 20 round mags and the sling it comes in at 9 lb 6 oz.
The two modded mags have Arredondo +5 magazine extentions. I had to dremal the bottom of the magazines to a shallow angle, to allow the spring and follower to move freely as rounds are stripped off.
The most significant mod is still in the works... I'm working on a design for a plastic or aluminum cheek rest, which will attach to the rear of the telestock, extend forward about 14 total inches, and slide with it as its position changes. First attempt at making it will probably be with aluminum, as I can cut and bend it myself. If that doesn't work out, I'll be finding a plastic fabricator who can make it for me... We'll see how it goes... the goal is to keep the whole thing under 10 lbs loaded.
Edit: Oh, by the way, I figured out a better way to attach the trigger-guard sheath than green electrical tape, so that looks much better than before.
Looks good. Give some details on the MT mods.
Thanks for the interest raven :) I've updated the post.
That just look like a whole bunch of fun! Very nice.
Thanks Pablo :D
It is fun.
I went Mechtech with my Dan Wesson Razorback 10mm.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v196/Gandog56/MechTech_zpsjrxvavah.jpg)
Doesn't shoot too bad, but bullets rose as the barrel warmed up a tad. (Or as the barrel was getting worn in)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v196/Gandog56/DSCN0086_zpsyaqfilap.jpg)
I like it, gandog56 :D . What sight is that on it?
I haven't noticed any stringing with mine... I have tested a variety of factory loads through it, and there are definitely some that group much better than others while shooting supported at a standing bench.
Something interesting that I did run into... I have both a Gen 4 G20 and a Gen 4 G40; using the G40 lower the MT runs flawless with all ammo, but using the G20 lower I get failures to feed about 15% of the time with the round getting pinched between the glock block and the top of the barrel. If I release the pressure by slightly nudging the bolt handle backward, it falls into battery. I guess there must just be a slight difference in the tolerances between the two lowers. ???
I'm making slow progress on my cheek rest mod. I have a template drawn out on a piece of 24 gauge aluminum, and will hopefully get it cut and the edges cleaned up in the next couple of weeks. We'll see how sturdy I can make it...
More to come.
I went MEC-TECH on my G20. I modified the butt as I did not like the gargantuan LOP of the design. :o :o :o
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Glock/Mech-TEC/6218BC3D-E7CA-4E1B-841B-3CF5C2B8FBC5_zpsxkz7jcp6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Glock/Mech-TEC/45598741-8F0D-43B5-A404-D58506DF2F43_zpsejfkmtfd.jpg)
Then I did not care for the factory crown, so I re did that too.
OLD:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Glock/Mech-TEC/789901AF-B5A9-4D9C-8709-39A81F8B32D5_zps1jcqbqi4.jpg)
NEW:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Glock/Mech-TEC/39D0FD0B-3324-49CF-B76F-294CC09B07DD_zps9vlb800i.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Glock/Mech-TEC/92D638B4-E1BD-4748-87CD-6218462B488A_zpsmqsovdve.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Glock/Mech-TEC/882E04BA-BB94-4499-A0D2-1900F64B753A_zpscesnpuvk.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Glock/Mech-TEC/D58FD142-6B37-404D-9762-D001A2890A59_zpsvrkqia9n.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Glock/Mech-TEC/53ED4C8F-2FBC-4236-AE8A-84F789BD5990_zpsgtzq2gtb.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Glock/Mech-TEC/29DA9139-CD56-44C6-AA53-9D776D8D3764_zpsxqnzislu.jpg)
CW
Thanks for sharing cwlongshot. :)
Part of why I went with the telestock is that I like being able to collapse it and position it where I want depending on the shooting situation; I've made more use of the fully collapsed position than you might think. That and I've never been a fan of how AR style buttstocks look, even when attached to actual ARs.
I notice in the fifth picture in your post you have a bottom cover attached at the rear - is that something you made yourself? I'd be interested in doing the same for mine if you're willing to share the details.
Great looking carbine cwlongshot! Thanks for the drool on my keyboard! :D
do they make the mechtech for a glock 29
Hi sgmtino, check out their site.
http://www.mechtechsys.com/glock.php
Unfortunately, they only make it to fit compact, standard, and full-size Glocks, 1911s, and some XDs; not subcompacts like the G29. Used G20s usually go for around $350, though... that's how I got mine - a local fire marshal sold his to Cabelas, never fired... he decided that in his old age the 10mm would be too much for him. Worked out well for me, though.
Those are nice setups yall have there. I love my 45 Mec Tec and have been hunting for a 10mm setup on and off for a few years or so. Seems every time I find one I don't have the funds or I have the funds and none for sale.
Quote from: Smee78 on June 16 2016 06:27:39 PM MDT
Those are nice setups yall have there. I love my 45 Mec Tec and have been hunting for a 10mm setup on and off for a few years or so. Seems every time I find one I don't have the funds or I have the funds and none for sale.
The recurring conundrum of gun people everywhere... good luck with your search :) .
I just noticed, looking at their site again today, that the base Mechtech uppers have gone up by about $150 since I ordered mine ~ March last year. Seems like it might be a sooner-than-later type purchase at that rate of increase...
All of them are sweet.
I'm in the process now of putting one together. Gonna get the 1911 style, but having difficulty in acquiring a double stack version. I'll get the upper after I've taken possession of a frame. I've been shooting 2-gun comps for a while, and #1- I hate cleaning my AR, #2- reloading is more of a PITA than just re-loading for my Delta. So my plan is to go 2-gun shooting with 10MM.
For those that already have one, a question I forgot to ask the MechTech tech when I called last week is about the recoil spring/bolt/carrier.....do they have one (I know that have to have something similar to cycle), and if so...are they difficult to change and how often do they need to be? Thanks, Tracy
Almost had a catastrophe with my Mechtech. I had a case head separation (Many times reloaded brass) and I had the top of the case wedged in the barrel. I tried everything to get it out, nothing worked. I took it to my gunsmith and he fiddled with it and fiddled with it and he was having no luck getting it out. Then he found the magic formula. He took a .45 caliber Boresnake and run it through backwards just until the little metal bristles part was centered on the piece of case. Pulled it back out the back of the receiver and the shell bit came right out. I immediately went to a gunstore and bought me that Boresnake.
GOOD JOB!!
I have a few, they are handi!
CW
Quote from: TSP45ACP on June 18 2016 05:49:34 PM MDT
For those that already have one, a question I forgot to ask the MechTech tech when I called last week is about the recoil spring/bolt/carrier.....do they have one (I know that have to have something similar to cycle), and if so...are they difficult to change and how often do they need to be? Thanks, Tracy
There is a single recoil spring running the length of the bolt in a channel, attached by spring tension to posts (one at the barrel end, and one on the far end of the bolt); the aluminum tube keeps the spring in place. It's easy to change, if needed, though I haven't put enough rounds through mine to need to. Most of the recoil is mitigated by the rubber bumper at the back of the tube. I can post pictures at some point if you need more details. Also, Mechtech recommends against disassembly to take out the bolt/barrel too often, as there's risk of over-tightening the screws that hold the rails/brackets to the tube and thus putting pressure on the internal components; also, there's risk of bending the spring, and thus requiring a new one.
I had mine out last week and discovered something... Maybe you guys who have them knew or will now be able to check this for yourselves... It LIKES a firm hold!!
I was shooting at 50 yards off the bench in bags front and back. It was not shooting well... 100% reliability, I am talking accuracy... 4-6" groups with flyers. now this aint a target gun by any means, but I always was able to get 2" groups pretty easy at 50 yards with my red dot. I was thinking something had happened, I had missed a loaded mag after I cleaned up and decided to shoot them off too...standing. WELL...those 10 rounds went into a RAGGED HOLE 2 same 50 yards!! I opened up the bag and loaded up two more mags and shot them standing, supported by a pole. SAME RESULTS, group was just over 1" for 10 rounds.
Keiichi,
Don't know if your still around. You asked a question that I missed. (apologies) My "cover" is just some good camo tape. I did tape it together so there was no sticky underneath and left enough adhesive on the top side so it would remain attached to the tube. Nothing special, but works well and looks OK.
CW
Thanks for the answer cwlongshot... simple solution, I like it.
I haven't noticed any accuracy issues with a weak hold, but mine has some issues with "limp-wristing" or whatever its rifle equivalent would be called (more or less, not leaning into the rifle enough), especially with lighter loads, where the round wouldn't go into battery but get pinched between the lower lip of the barrel (side of case), the top of the barrel (bullet tip), and bolt (case rim).
I think I got it mostly worked out by sanding the sharp edge off the barrel lip, but I still need to stay forward on it to be 100%.
And yeah, my accuracy has been similar to yours, supported.
Edit: Actually, I do remember some time ago I noticed that the screws holding the rails on the barrel ring were loose after one of my range sessions. I don't remember if the accuracy was poor on that occasion, but might be something for you to check...
Edit again: went back and looked at your pics - since you only have the top rail attached to the barrel ring, that might likely not be your issue...
Quote from: gandog56 on June 20 2016 06:11:04 AM MDT
Almost had a catastrophe with my Mechtech. I had a case head separation (Many times reloaded brass) and I had the top of the case wedged in the barrel. I tried everything to get it out, nothing worked. I took it to my gunsmith and he fiddled with it and fiddled with it and he was having no luck getting it out. Then he found the magic formula. He took a .45 caliber Boresnake and run it through backwards just until the little metal bristles part was centered on the piece of case. Pulled it back out the back of the receiver and the shell bit came right out. I immediately went to a gunstore and bought me that Boresnake.
I just had the same thing happen to me this week. Used 9.1gr Longshot, 180gr Berrys, CCI 300, 1.252 OAL with Federal 2X fired brass. Used the Boresnake to pull it out. I also had one primer come completely out and another backed out most of the way. This Federal brass might be less desirable than Starline. Is there a thread where good loads are being run through the M.T.?
I find that the Chamber in my MechTech is crazy tight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHdWjm6iMYM
I've torn the Web off of more than a few Cases
(https://i.imgur.com/T0DrJ6V.jpg)
My loads for the MG20 are:
165gr Berry's Round Shoulder
Behind 9.3gr of AA#5
Not a real hot 1475fps
Only damaged cases I have had where bulged. :o :o :o But I haven't checked to see if my chamber is tight... I'll make a note of it next time at range.
CW
My chamber is tight resulting in a .425 head dimension on what looks like a very stiff load of 9.1 Longshot w/180gr bullet. Pretty flat primer and two case separations is TOO hot! Will try my faster CFE Pistol to see if I can get velocity before similar pressure problems occur.
Another trip to the range with a new discovery. I had worked up a load of 9.1gr Longshot, 200gr Xtreme bullet that was max in my G20 w/6" KKM barrel & 22# spring. This load in the M.T. would smile brass, blow out an occasional primer or leave half the brass in the chamber. Tried another recommended load of 8.0 Longshot w/220gr Xtreme bullet that would also smile the brass but safe in the pistol. Backed down to 7.9gr Longshot w/200gr Xtreme bullet that seemed to work well but.......got a few failures to feed where the plated bullet dug into the feed ramp edge on the barrel. My average OAL on all of these loads is around 1.258. I now have a push back that measures 1.175! I am wondering if some of my previous problems are a result of push back where the bullet makes it into the chamber then fires with disastrous results.
I noticed the feed ramp that goes on the pistol is just a little loose when installed on the M.T. Mine measures .249 thick with the cutout/magnet area at .090. If anyone could measure theirs and report I would like to know what you come up with. I think I might try some feeler gauge stock to push this feed ramp tighter up against the barrel.
I also assume that using jacketed bullets ONLY would solve the feed problem the softer plated lead is allowing to dig into the edge of the ramp.
I probably missed it and know nothing of MechTech, but is a chamber "clean up" and polish possible? I did it do my RMW and LW Glocks with great success. Sounds like it needs it.
Pablo
I agree with the polish idea and I did so on the pistol side feed block using crocus cloth and flitz but it was already pretty shiny. I have not tried to take the barrel out of the M.T. yet as I have read about the process being a little testy.
Honestly sounds worth it. We are not talking Glock slop, but there is a point of perfection just over "too tight".
Sometimes just taking down the asperities is all a chamber needs.
I found that if you break the hard corner on the Glock Block it allows the Round to ramp into the Chamber cleaner
(sorry for the lousy Cellphone Pics)
(https://i.imgur.com/6yBq4rt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/V3YViHF.jpg)
Jazz,
Something you need to realize when loading for different actions ESP locked breech blow compared to back actions like the MECH is they react differently and can give you different results IN-directly associated to pressure. Its MORE WHERE the pressure peak is... meaning the bolt comes back WITH recoil... so some powders are going to give you these smiles when they really are no near high pressure. Brass cases are designed to HOLD POWDER. NOT withstand pressures, this is why you get smiles. The bolt is opening BEFORE peake pressure allowing the brass to smile... Different powders will allow the performance you desire without the smiles.
CW
CW
I agree and one of the recommended loads I tried was 8.0 Longshot with the 220gr Xtreme bullet at 1.260. Potentially dangerous in my rifle but shoots fabulous in my G20 KKM 6". What else is anyone loading for theirs that has worked out to be great? I have some CFE Pistol on hand that needs to be tried. I put a small .035 washer under the feeding block that really tightens things up that should prevent the bullet from nose diving into the barrel ramp that could have caused bullet set back with excessive pressure. Spoke to M.T. and my 2 year old feeding block is the same dimension as the current ones. My block was doing a little up and down tilt when you pushed on it that it no longer does. The underside gap on their block is too long allowing that to happen unless you tighten it up against the barrel like I did.
Jazz
jazz - that might be a difference in the tolerance or dimention of the lower... I don't have any of the looseness or tilting that you describe.
What generation Glock do you use? Mines a Gen 4...
I have noticed that even between two lowers of the same generation, one of mine is more reliable than the other. Haven't really investigated why, though.
I am using a G20 SF Gen 3. After installing yours, lock the bolt back and reach into the action with a pencil eraser touching the block and see if it does not rock up and down just a little. Its not a lot but mine does move exposing the barrel ramp edge just enough to allow my plated bullet nose to dig in. It might only happen once in 30 rounds but the result could be catastrophic in the event the round now chambers setting the bullet back. I measured one that did not chamber FTF that went from 1.260 to 1.170! This might explain the two rounds leaving half the case in the chamber and one round swelled up at the head so large it was incredible it did not blow up.
Yep, checked again using the method you suggested, and checked both of my Gen 4 G20 lowers (one's from a G40, but... same difference...) - no detectable movement of the Glock block using either lower. It's tightly wedged in there between the lower and the bottom of the barrel.
Not sure what to tell you...
Hit the range yesterday and put 50+ rounds through it with only one FTF. Again the plated bullet nose caught the barrel feed ramp and hung up. Good thing it did not chamber as the OAL went from 1.260 to 1.185! I tried the M.T. on another G20 SF and the movement was less but still there. Measured the Glock locking blocks and my older one has probably shortened a little due to lots of rounds fired. It measured .312 where the newer one was at .320. My M.T. block underneath gap measures .377! If this gap was shortened to .325 it would snug things up where it would no longer teter totter in place. I also noticed if it installs rearward there is a larger gap exposing the bottom of the barrel ramp. Push it forward and it looks like a smoother transition.
Keiichi, measure your M.T. block to see if its .249 thick with the same gap of .377 underneath please.
I'll have to pick up a caliper to measure them... probably something I should have at this point anyway.
Give me a few days, and I'll get back to you with measurements.
On the .377 measure - is that the gap between the top of the receiver shelf the glock block sits on and the bottom of the barrel? I'm having a little trouble following exactly what it was you measured (sorry :) ).
K
Thanks for asking. Its the gap that is front to back. I did not measure its depth but I was able to get a small washer .035 up next to the magnet that tightens things up preventing the tilt however even with it in place its possible to mount the M.T. block rearward due to the front to back slop that exposes the bottom of the barrel ramp somewhat. I know the fix would be to simply use jacketed bullets vs. the cheaper plated/coated/lead but this thing is such a joy to shoot and can really eat up the rounds.
Here are the dimensions as measured by my new digital caliper:
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/KeiichitheOtaku/IMG_0737_zpsfkkfszvx.jpg)
K
Thanks for taking the time to measure. Mine is like yours and M.T. gave me similar measurements. Are you shooting jacketed only bullets? I am pretty sure that is the fix for my problems as it would be less prone to digging into the barrel ramp. Since the glock locking block is only .320 the underneath gap of the M.T. block slot is way too long at .380 to provide a closer tight fit.