http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2015/09/13/yes-its-true-fireclean-is-crisco/
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LOL.
The most relevant part of the article is that gun lubricants are just repackaged common chemicals. Mobile 1 for me.
I've been using frog lube for about a year and I suspect it's the same but it works and I like the fact it's not toxic due to kids pregnant wife etc.
Frog lube, as I recall a spectrometer report I read, is jojoba oil that has been mixed with mint flavor and food coloring.
If it works for your needs, great. But the relevant part here is in the Frog lube story...Vet and friend adapt commercial lubricant to firearms. You might want to try plain jojoba oil as it appears to be about 1/4 the price.
Their solvent intrigues me as the MSDS lists it's boiling point as 212° F and it's density as the 1.001. Both align with water. Makes me wonder if the solvent is just water with soap.
Again, if it works for you, more power to ya!
What type and viscosity of Mobil One.
Mobil 1 full synthetic 15w50
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-15W-50-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-1-qt./20713645
Quote from: sqlbullet on September 14 2015 03:25:11 PM MDT
Frog lube, as I recall a spectrometer report I read, is jojoba oil that has been mixed with mint flavor and food coloring.
If it works for your needs, great. But the relevant part here is in the Frog lube story...Vet and friend adapt commercial lubricant to firearms. You might want to try plain jojoba oil as it appears to be about 1/4 the price.
Their solvent intrigues me as the MSDS lists it's boiling point as 212° F and it's density as the 1.001. Both align with water. Makes me wonder if the solvent is just water with soap.
Again, if it works for you, more power to ya!
I tried it with a free sample it works great for a short time after application, but I put it on my rifles after big game season last year and when I took them out to sight them in and clean them for this season it had literally turned into rubber cement and was gummed up everywhere, my, ar-10 would not even fully cycle without using the forward assist. i'm back to using clp and rem oil.
Gumming, or polymerization, is the problem with vegetable based oils. They can't be easily stabilized against oxidation, and this is the result.
If it's put on thick it will turn into about honey consistancy
Quote from: sqlbullet on September 14 2015 08:30:52 PM MDT
Mobil 1 full synthetic 15w50
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-15W-50-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-1-qt./20713645
A guy recommended I use the 15W-50 Mobil 1 as lube on my Auto Mags about 10 years ago. Auto Mags are all stainless with lots of moving parts and a rotating bolt similar to a M16.
I started using it on just about all my pistols after that. It does the job.
Quote from: BEEMER! on September 15 2015 04:28:55 PM MDT
A guy recommended I use the 15W-50 Mobil 1 as lube on my Auto Mags about 10 years ago. Auto Mags are all stainless with lots of moving parts and a rotating bolt similar to a M16.
I started using it on just about all my pistols after that. It does the job.
Works great and is 1/16th the price of typical gun lubes. I can't imagine going back.
Rather than Mobil-1, you'd probably be better off with Redline, it has large doses of Moly in it which would probably be better than the Mobil-1 add pack. Also is true Group V oil.
I will have to check it out when I run out of Mobile 1. Of course, that may be a while.
Ed's Red is a decent mix. I use some Mobil1 0w-40 in replacement of some of the ATF. I also use some Marvel Mystery oil in the mix.
http://www.precisionweapons.com/CartGenie/EDs_Red.pdf
I use Ezzox as of late, and I've been happy with that too, but it dries totally. I don't trust it as a lube, but protection from rust is great.
Greg
I have used Ed's Red. I use it to clean, then lube with Mobile 1. About a year ago I inherited 4-5 big bottles of Hoppes #9, so I plan to use that up, then back to Ed's red I will go.
There have been "SNAKE OIL SALESMEN" as long as time itself! ::)
The argument has been made that since these guys went to the trouble of figuring out a blend of oils that work well, they are entitled to the price they charge.
I dunno.
I found this while doing some research for different CLP's. I do not know anything about this guy or site so take it for what its worth.
http://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/274/review-comparison-gun-care-products
I ended up settling on Frog Lube (and even giving away half of the liquid I still have some). I, too, have had problems with the gumming up of the different parts but after following the directions of heating up the metal, applying the paste, then wiping it off after an hour I have not had a single problem and have been running dry.
Even though it is a bit on the more expensive side I will keep with it. Just my own preference.
Heat up, apply a vegetable based oil, allow to sit and wipe clean. Sounds like seasoning a cast iron skillet. End result is a coating of polymerized fat. Flaxseed oil would be the best solution for this as it is a drying oil that will get harder and more durable over time. If you aren't worried about food grade oil, linseed oil would work pretty good too. At least that is the chemistry.
These processes work best on a base that is somewhat porous base metal, like a cast iron pan. Since our guns are generally carbon steel, parkerizing the surface would be indicated prior to application of this process to provide a better bond. Stainless steel would not take a coating well in general.
I have a build I was going to parkerize and cerakote, but I think I might parkerize and then heat, apply flaxseed oil and bake at 300° for an hour like I would a skillet and see how it turns out.
Pretty much exactly how it was described to me, just like cast iron. I know I can tell a big difference on mine and my daughter's AR's. The ring that develops on the firing pin has gotten a lot easier to clean after the third application. Last cleaning it cleaned up with hardly any work.
I have a new AR bolt/carrier at home that just has a park job at the moment. I think when I get a chance I will apply some BLO and heat it up a bit.