Could someone show me a good kit (basic kit, im poor LOL) that i can reload .40 and 10MM with? (Maybe a link to one on Amazon/ i use Amazon a lot.
(I fully appreciate how critical details are in the reloading process~ i get it,.. I wouldnt load 10MM full or approaching full power until i had it down pat,.. Start with light loads first)
My wife's grandad was a big reloader/ she would like to see me get into it too. (From what im seeing its the only way to shoot 10MM anyway)
First, I'd say go and get 2 books 1) ABCs of reloading 2)load data book like Lyman's....
Then read anything else you can fine, or better, a person that can teach you.
As to a good basic kit, I'd say a Lee Classic Turret press, they have kits with extras but not with everything you'll need.
Reason for the LCT is that it can work as a single stage or in turret mode ( switch over very easy)
Ps one press I wouldn't recommend to a beginner is the Lee Pro 1000.... Tho it looks like a low price and comes with dies,it can cause you to pull out hair. Also it's a progressive type and its best to learn on a single stage type press
I started with the Lee Turret press. tommac919 pretty much nailed it. You should be able to do both calibers with one die set. There should be instructions included with the dies. I also look for deals and "blemished" bullets online. I rarely buy bullets in the retail stores. It will become and addiction. When I started, I was only going to load for my 243, 357 Mag and 270 Win. I am up to 12 calibers now. Looking at adding 2 or 3 more (45-70, 22 TCM and 41 Mag) Have fun.
I usually tell people to get the RCBS Rock Chucker Kit, it has lots of stuff and when you add the dies and shell holder @ $300 you can get the $50 rebate.
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding (http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding)
Digital calipers can be had from Harbor Freight for $10 on sale
Quote from: The_Shadow on July 07 2015 08:59:28 PM MDT
I usually tell people to get the RCBS Rock Chucker Kit, it has lots of stuff and when you add the dies and shell holder @ $300 you can get the $50 rebate.
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding (http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding)
Digital calipers can be had from Harbor Freight for $10 on sale
This. I've recommended the same, dozens of times, for years. Every beginner should start on a single-stage press, and every loading bench should include a Rock-Chucker. I have 2, both decades old, both still in service. Once experienced, progressive presses may be considered. That's a different discussion.
Check out youtube videos about reloading to see what you would be getting into, also read the books aforementioned. Basic starting setup would be a press, scale, reloading dies, calipers, and a reloading manual for recipes. All kinds of other bells and whistles stuff you can also get, reloading blocks, Tumbler to clean your fired cases, tumbling media, Powder measures, hand primer tools, case trimmers.
I would think a good place to start would be a Lee Starter kit with a single stage press. About the only other thing you would need is the dies and a manual to start pumping out bullets. I see a starter kit on sale for $119.
https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-breechlock-challenger-kit-90030.html (https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-breechlock-challenger-kit-90030.html)
I appreciate the input, keep it coming.
I will load SLOWLY,.. :))
Im not concened with loading speed but safety as i will load slightly hot, but not stupid heavy hot..
Start with Lee dies. They're inexpensive, come with a shell holder and very good instructions. Start simple don't go progressive right away, everyone should own a single stage press anyway. Good luck
Funny thing is I still spend more time working up my loads with the 30+ year old RockChucker than I do once i get the load I want and run it on Dillon XL650! I told myself that I was only going to reload 10mm when I got back into reloading, but as is always the case I am now doing all the pistol calibers I own... So, lots of time on the old single stage - you always will need one - a great investment to get one that will last! I can't say enough about how good RCBS has been supporting their products - 30+ year old Uniflow and I asked them if it was the same as the modern ones as the hopper was a different color, so they sent me a new hopper and cap! Numerous bent de-capping pins, they keep sending them on 30 year old dies... Dillon support has been similar also, but I do not have Dillon equipment from 30 years ago to compare it to!
So thats two or more comments that i'll need a single stage regarless,.. If thats the case thats what i'm 'agonna do!
i have and started on the lee turret it has its quarks but i wouldnt go single stage unless i was loading for precision
To me even though I own a Dillon Progressive press, I work on my single stage because every round is match grade quality because I am anal about my loading...As you read through the Pull-Down sections you can see my attention to details provide so others can learn of what things to look for...
I have many cases pre prepared, pass through sized, regular sized and deprimed and case mouths expanded so when I am ready I hand prime as many as I want to load the hand weigh powder, charge the case place it on the press to seat while the next charge settles on the scale, seat a bullet to the proper coal. After all of them are loaded, I then run them back to final crimp. Oh yea, I wipe each of them off and bag them up with a label with the pertinent data.
In a recent test, I tested some newly loaded rounds against 35 year old ammo (yes I have many that have been loaded that long ago) and they were within 10 FPS of each other using the same recipe with newer lots of powder.
Why do I do things this way, 100% function and quality is my goal. One member (Intercooler) here has shot my handloads and he can attest to their performance from his guns.
About dies as it relates to handloading and seating and crimping in particular.
In the effort to save handloaders money the die makers make the dies to perform every step necessary to make suitable cartridges. While some can perform multiple task such as sizing and depriming or expanding and depriming or expanding and powder drop and even seating and crimping in separate or same step operations.
Take the seating and crimping die for example; If a bullet had a good cannelure groove such as the 38/357 44 spl/mag their bullet usually have a generous cannelure and a roll crimp has a place to go as the cannelure is present even as the bullet is still in motion, to do them in the same step operations.
However most semi auto pistol and rifles lack a cannelure groove on the projectile body, therefore if the die is not adjusted up and away from the top of the case neck, the crimp section of the die is contacted during bullet seating, the case mouth starts being squeezed inward, while the bullet is still in its downward travel.
By raising the seater crimp die up in such away that the crimp section doesn't contact the casing while the bullet is seated, provides an easier seating process, with less stress and strain. During this operation the bullet is free to slide inside the case neck. Then in a separate step the die can be lowered for the proper crimp and the seating stem raised so it barely makes contact with the projectile while you are applying the final crimp.
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/Crimps-3_zps15b1fd66.jpg)
:o
Im gonna have to get some books, i can see that already
The RockChucker kit comes with the Speer #14 manual it is hard bound and an excellent manual which contains loading data for most cartridges.
Other manuals such as Lyman, Hornady are also very good sources of detailed info.
Quote from: Brian B. on July 09 2015 08:43:26 PM MDT
:o
Im gonna have to get some books, i can see that already
Reply #1:
Quote from: tommac919 on July 07 2015 07:33:44 PM MDT
First, I'd say go and get 2 books 1) ABCs of reloading 2)load data book like Lyman's....
Experience is born of error (mistakes). Learn from others', or learn your own (not a good idea with high energy combustibles).
Quote from: The_Shadow on July 09 2015 09:29:26 PM MDT
The RockChucker kit comes with the Speer #14 manual it is hard bound and an excellent manual which contains loading data for most cartridges.
Other manuals such as Lyman, Hornady are also very good sources of detailed info.
You just beat me to it (Great Minds!). I think the Speer #14 manual spells out the process extremely well. It is very easy to follow. It also separates the process for loading rifle cartridges from the process for loading pistol ammo. I have frequently recommended it to new loaders. I also highly endorse the Rock Chucker kit to a few new loaders.
One note, there are a few different RCBS kits. The one that is wanted is the Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading kit. Great press, great powder dispenser, great scale, and a good hand priming tool. If you never load rifle you won't use some of the small case prep doodads, but they are incidental to the matter.
If you get into shooting pistol in any amount of volume, you will want a higher production loading setup -- most likely a progressive. I have a progressive press (The RCBS Pro 2000 auto index), but I absolutely wouldn't want to go without a good single stage. I also wouldn't want to do without the scale, powder throw, and priming tool like what you'll find in the RCBS kit. I still use that gear regularly even though I load 9, 40, 10 and 223 on the Pro 2000.
With a new reloader, the single stage will give opportunities to learn the intricacies of each die -- one at a time.
What i seem to be reading on Amazon reviews WITH EVERY KIT.. Is that "X" is good (usually the press), but the rest is junk..
Maybe you guys could help me build my own kit, one component at a time? (Any input welcomed)
Here it is again the Rock Chucker Kit, Midway has free shipping on orders over $150, and RCBS has Rebate of $50 when you spend $300. All quality stuff
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding (http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding)
Get the books .......... eBay is a good source. Starting to reload is a decision few regret.
Quote from: The_Shadow on July 10 2015 07:52:45 AM MDT
Here it is again the Rock Chucker Kit, Midway has free shipping on orders over $150, and RCBS has Rebate of $50 when you spend $300. All quality stuff
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding (http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding)
So this is one of the few that most or all components are good?, OK I'll check it out.
That deal is $290, i wonder what else i might buy to get me past the $300 to get the $50 rebate?
Quote from: Brian B. on July 10 2015 09:12:55 AM MDT
That deal is $290, i wonder what else i might buy to get me past the $300 to get the $50 rebate?
I would add a couple of more of the reloading trays (or blocks). or the priming assembly for the press, personally I like the hand primer much better and it is included. Also, a kinetic bullet puller is nice. Although if you don't have the dies, that will easily put you over the $300 mark - I think most of the carbide RCBS dies are around $50.
Yes the dies & shell holder should put you over the mark, maybe a powder trickler.
Quote from: cwall64 on July 10 2015 09:26:56 AM MDT
Quote from: Brian B. on July 10 2015 09:12:55 AM MDT
That deal is $290, i wonder what else i might buy to get me past the $300 to get the $50 rebate?
I would add a couple of more of the reloading trays (or blocks). or the priming assembly for the press, personally I like the hand primer much better and it is included. Also, a kinetic bullet puller is nice. Although if you don't have the dies, that will easily put you over the $300 mark - I think most of the carbide RCBS dies are around $50.
Do the 40 and the 10MM share the sane die?
Quote from: Brian B. on July 10 2015 12:54:39 PM MDT
Quote from: cwall64 on July 10 2015 09:26:56 AM MDT
Quote from: Brian B. on July 10 2015 09:12:55 AM MDT
That deal is $290, i wonder what else i might buy to get me past the $300 to get the $50 rebate?
I would add a couple of more of the reloading trays (or blocks). or the priming assembly for the press, personally I like the hand primer much better and it is included. Also, a kinetic bullet puller is nice. Although if you don't have the dies, that will easily put you over the $300 mark - I think most of the carbide RCBS dies are around $50.
Do the 40 and the 10MM share the sane die?
:) ....It may sound insane, but yes I use the same die for both :o
I want to reload for both, wondering how many dies i need to order.
Quote from: Brian B. on July 10 2015 12:54:39 PM MDT
Quote from: cwall64 on July 10 2015 09:26:56 AM MDT
Quote from: Brian B. on July 10 2015 09:12:55 AM MDT
That deal is $290, i wonder what else i might buy to get me past the $300 to get the $50 rebate?
I would add a couple of more of the reloading trays (or blocks). or the priming assembly for the press, personally I like the hand primer much better and it is included. Also, a kinetic bullet puller is nice. Although if you don't have the dies, that will easily put you over the $300 mark - I think most of the carbide RCBS dies are around $50.
Do the 40 and the 10MM share the sane die?
Typically yes. The RCBS set I have is labeled for both. Some of the Redding specialty dies are specific for 10mm or 40 S&W - it just depends, they are normally labelled and described correctly on the websites as combo dies or specific caliber.
RCBS Carbide 3-Die Set with Taper Crimp 40 S&W, 10mm Auto - http://www.midwayusa.com/product/373992/rcbs-carbide-3-die-set-with-taper-crimp-40-s-and-w-10mm-auto?cm_vc=ProductFinding - are the ones I have (RCBS #22115).
Perfect!
Quote from: Brian B. on July 10 2015 09:09:35 AM MDT
Quote from: The_Shadow on July 10 2015 07:52:45 AM MDT
Here it is again the Rock Chucker Kit, Midway has free shipping on orders over $150, and RCBS has Rebate of $50 when you spend $300. All quality stuff
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding (http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding)
So this is one of the few that most or all components are good?, OK I'll check it out.
That is why THIS particular kit is recommended. The extra gear is very high quality. If you were going to buy stuff a la carte, it would be hard to argue against the Uniflow powder throw and the 5-0-5 scale. Plus the Rock Chucker is simply a great press. This is not entry level stuff.
You'll need dies. I have 2 sets of RCBS dies and they both size down low enough that pass-through is not needed. They pass a case gauge each time. You'll need a shell holder. No sense in not matching it with the RCBS #27. You'll want a kinetic puller and calipers. I think one company makes most of the dial calipers on the market and each company puts their own label on the dial face. So the one that you get at Harbor Freight will be identical to the one from Lyman/RCBS/Cabelas/Hornady, etc. Save some cash that way.
Lastly, a vibratory case cleaner will be good to have too.
Good catch on the shell holder! I always forget to order one when I order new dies - you would think I would learn by now!!!
I procrastinated and procrastinated on starting to reload. But then I got my first .357 Mag pistol. I saw how much cheaper it was to feed it full power loads, and even better for how little I could make a box of .38 special DEWC as practice fodder for it. Now if there are dies for it and I own it, I reload it. Only stuff I do not reload for is .22 LR.
What gets me is how much cheaper I can make 10mm than buy it for.
Check your local library for reloading books.
Quote from: gandog56 on July 15 2015 06:38:43 AM MDT
I procrastinated and procrastinated on starting to reload. But then I got my first .357 Mag pistol. I saw how much cheaper it was to feed it full power loads, and even better for how little I could make a box of .38 special DEWC as practice fodder for it. Now if there are dies for it and I own it, I reload it. Only stuff I do not reload for is .22 LR.
What gets me is how much cheaper I can make 10mm than buy it for.
Getting into reloading is something that I will never look back on and say "I wish I hadn't done that".
Quote from: gandog56 on July 15 2015 06:38:43 AM MDT
What gets me is how much cheaper I can make 10mm than buy it for.
I don't cast and its comes in at 13-14 cents each.... Heads are about 9 cents, now if I cast how would it reduce?
That would depend if you could get your alloy for free or reasonable prices...there are places like Roto Metals that sell quality alloys but shipping adds up. Then there are mold prices, bottom pour furnace or cast iron pot on burner with a dipper and your time...
For me I was lucky to have gotten a good stash of wheel weights back when they were the best quality, today you have to sort through zinc and steel weights just to get to the pure lead stick-ons or the real lead alloy wheel weights.
Not trying to discourage anyone just show some of the things to beware of!
Quote from: The_Shadow on July 15 2015 09:59:51 PM MDT
That would depend if you could get your alloy for free or reasonable prices...snipped , today you have to sort through zinc and steel weights just to get to the pure lead stick-ons or the real lead alloy wheel weights.
Kind of fiq that's the case today... many years ago( 25) did casting for my 44 cal Bk powder rifle... not much free lead these days ( time not a problem since I'm retired )