So I loaded 10 Starline brass with CCI 300 primers. Filled with Blue Dot 10.2gr and topped with Hornady 180gr XTP set at 1.250 OAL
Tools used
RCBS Hand primer seater
Dillon Dies
Forster Single Stage
Hornady Lock N Load powder distributor
Hopefully I can get to the desert and test fire these 10 rounds. More to follow!!
I did order a set of Forster dies for 223 and an RCBS crimp die. So 223 should be next.
let us know how they go. I know my first reloads I was nervous/excited. Just start low and work your way up.
Your "first batch", as in, you haven't loaded any 10mm before? Other calibers before, or is this your first attempt loading any?
My reason for asking....
10.2 gr. Blue Dot is only .2 gr. short of a full/max load (according to some published tables). You should always "work up" to near a max load. Generally, reduce by 10%, and work up in .2 gr. increments. I don't consider 10.2 grains a max load for my use, but it may be for yours, or someone else's. This also leaves no room for error, in the event you have a component or handgun failure.
If I may suggest, load up some more (at least another 10), starting at about 9.5 gr. and work up to 10 gr. before you shoot your current load. Bad things can/do happen even when we do everything right.
The main thing is if he read his scale properly and it is correct!
That 10.2 grain load would be fine in any 10mm gun with any 180 grain bullet, mild and accurate it will be cleaner burning at 10.4 grains! BTW 11.0 grains was Speer's max with their GD and TMJ's.
Enjoy the rewards of handloading!
These 10 are my first attempt at loading anything. Now that I've read everyones comments I will load some lower to fire first. The manuals I looked in stated min to max was 10-11gr. I used my Hornady auto dispenser unit. I ran through their calibration operation twice before.
Quote from: The_Shadow on September 03 2012 11:36:37 AM MDT
The main thing is if he read his scale properly and it is correct!
That 10.2 grain load would be fine in any 10mm gun with any 180 grain bullet, mild and accurate it will be cleaner burning at 10.4 grains! BTW 11.0 grains was Speer's max with their GD and TMJ's.
Enjoy the rewards of handloading!
I agree. However, Speer is assuming you are using a GD or Speer TMJ. Alliant's current table for the same load is also 11 gr. max, but only suggests a Speer GD bullet. XTP's are different, and load different. Other tables show 10.4 gr. max for "JHP" (non-specific, also to include "JHC") bullets. Also note, a typical TMJ/FMJ bullet will have a greater case volume seated to the same length as a JHP, in almost every event.
Do any of you guys load 223?
Yep. Lots and lots.
I don't load for the 223's but I load plenty 30'06, 308 and 30-30 for rifles. When it comes to 10mm I have loaded many combinations from mild to wild with various bullet styles weights and compositions since the cartridge started. 8)
Quote from: DM1906 on September 03 2012 02:35:52 PM MDT
Yep. Lots and lots.
So I bought this set of dies
Forster Ultra 2-Die sets include the Forster Bench Rest Full Length Sizer Die and the Forster Ultra Micrometer Seating Die. The Ultra Micrometer Seating Die is designed for reloaders to achieve repeatable results time and time again. The white hash marks on the dial are great for dialing in the desired seating depth and non-crimping bullet seating die allows the bullet and case to be held in perfect alignment during seating. It is recommended that neck sizers be used only for Bolt Action of single shot rifles. Cartridges for autoloaders, lever action and pump rifles should be full length sized. Shellholder sold separately.
Then I bought an RCBS crimp die. Will this work?
Quote from: Bro KV on September 03 2012 05:23:43 PM MDT
Quote from: DM1906 on September 03 2012 02:35:52 PM MDT
Yep. Lots and lots.
So I bought this set of dies
Forster Ultra 2-Die sets include the Forster Bench Rest Full Length Sizer Die and the Forster Ultra Micrometer Seating Die. The Ultra Micrometer Seating Die is designed for reloaders to achieve repeatable results time and time again. The white hash marks on the dial are great for dialing in the desired seating depth and non-crimping bullet seating die allows the bullet and case to be held in perfect alignment during seating. It is recommended that neck sizers be used only for Bolt Action of single shot rifles. Cartridges for autoloaders, lever action and pump rifles should be full length sized. Shellholder sold separately.
Then I bought an RCBS crimp die. Will this work?
That should work. The "micrometer" dies are fine, but unnecessary unless you are shooting competition requiring less than MOA accuracy. Regardless of how you set the seating depth, most all non-competition grade bullets will be less consistent than the consistency of the die. More expensive isn't always "better". Also, a crimp is not necessary unless you are expanding the case mouth (very rare need for this). .223's are a very easy rifle round to load. Very forgiving case, small (for rifle) powder charge, wide variety of bullets, and very popular (inexpensive components). It's easy to get a very accurate round with little fuss, which depends more on the ability of the rifle and shooter. The relatively small case capacity allows for a very wide selection of powders.
What weapon will you be shooting, and for what purpose (hunting/size, target, varmint, SD)? Barrel length and action type are key to selecting ideal powder and bullet types. For example, shorter barrels can use much faster powders, resulting in greater performance, less inconvenience (muzzle flash, noise), and lower cost. Choose a component combination that shoots the best, cleanest, most comfortable, and meets your requirements. Lots of options to choose from.
Quote from: DM1906 on September 03 2012 05:59:38 PM MDT
Quote from: Bro KV on September 03 2012 05:23:43 PM MDT
Quote from: DM1906 on September 03 2012 02:35:52 PM MDT
Yep. Lots and lots.
So I bought this set of dies
Forster Ultra 2-Die sets include the Forster Bench Rest Full Length Sizer Die and the Forster Ultra Micrometer Seating Die. The Ultra Micrometer Seating Die is designed for reloaders to achieve repeatable results time and time again. The white hash marks on the dial are great for dialing in the desired seating depth and non-crimping bullet seating die allows the bullet and case to be held in perfect alignment during seating. It is recommended that neck sizers be used only for Bolt Action of single shot rifles. Cartridges for autoloaders, lever action and pump rifles should be full length sized. Shellholder sold separately.
Then I bought an RCBS crimp die. Will this work?
That should work. The "micrometer" dies are fine, but unnecessary unless you are shooting competition requiring less than MOA accuracy. Regardless of how you set the seating depth, most all non-competition grade bullets will be less consistent than the consistency of the die. More expensive isn't always "better". Also, a crimp is not necessary unless you are expanding the case mouth (very rare need for this). .223's are a very easy rifle round to load. Very forgiving case, small (for rifle) powder charge, wide variety of bullets, and very popular (inexpensive components). It's easy to get a very accurate round with little fuss, which depends more on the ability of the rifle and shooter. The relatively small case capacity allows for a very wide selection of powders.
What weapon will you be shooting, and for what purpose (hunting/size, target, varmint, SD)? Barrel length and action type are key to selecting ideal powder and bullet types. For example, shorter barrels can use much faster powders, resulting in greater performance, less inconvenience (muzzle flash, noise), and lower cost. Choose a component combination that shoots the best, cleanest, most comfortable, and meets your requirements. Lots of options to choose from.
I'll be shooting them out of my Sig AR for target practice.
Also, so crimp is only required for pistol?
Quote from: Bro KV on September 03 2012 07:14:45 PM MDT
Quote from: DM1906 on September 03 2012 05:59:38 PM MDT
Quote from: Bro KV on September 03 2012 05:23:43 PM MDT
Quote from: DM1906 on September 03 2012 02:35:52 PM MDT
Yep. Lots and lots.
So I bought this set of dies
Forster Ultra 2-Die sets include the Forster Bench Rest Full Length Sizer Die and the Forster Ultra Micrometer Seating Die. The Ultra Micrometer Seating Die is designed for reloaders to achieve repeatable results time and time again. The white hash marks on the dial are great for dialing in the desired seating depth and non-crimping bullet seating die allows the bullet and case to be held in perfect alignment during seating. It is recommended that neck sizers be used only for Bolt Action of single shot rifles. Cartridges for autoloaders, lever action and pump rifles should be full length sized. Shellholder sold separately.
Then I bought an RCBS crimp die. Will this work?
That should work. The "micrometer" dies are fine, but unnecessary unless you are shooting competition requiring less than MOA accuracy. Regardless of how you set the seating depth, most all non-competition grade bullets will be less consistent than the consistency of the die. More expensive isn't always "better". Also, a crimp is not necessary unless you are expanding the case mouth (very rare need for this). .223's are a very easy rifle round to load. Very forgiving case, small (for rifle) powder charge, wide variety of bullets, and very popular (inexpensive components). It's easy to get a very accurate round with little fuss, which depends more on the ability of the rifle and shooter. The relatively small case capacity allows for a very wide selection of powders.
What weapon will you be shooting, and for what purpose (hunting/size, target, varmint, SD)? Barrel length and action type are key to selecting ideal powder and bullet types. For example, shorter barrels can use much faster powders, resulting in greater performance, less inconvenience (muzzle flash, noise), and lower cost. Choose a component combination that shoots the best, cleanest, most comfortable, and meets your requirements. Lots of options to choose from.
I'll be shooting them out of my Sig AR for target practice.
Also, so crimp is only required for pistol?
Crimp isn't required for most rifle, especially target or routine stuff. Tubular magazine rounds need it, and high-recoil-high-capacity may. It's a case-by-case, so to speak. .223? No. For your target rounds, I'd suggest a fast(er) powder and light bullets. Cheaper loads that'll be very accurate. No need for big energy, as paper falls pretty easy. Consult your manual(s) for a mid-range power load, with fast powders. Keep it simple and try several. If you go too light on the charge, you may have cycling issues (too little gas).
Bro KV, just as a point of reference, Hornady's max load of Blue Dot under a 180 gr XTP is 10.7 grains using Winchester primers. This is with a COAL of 1.260. Speer's latest manual gives a max load of 11.0 gr of BD but with a 180 gr Gold Dot, CCI primer and a COAL of 1.250. Just an example of the differences in two manuals. Hornady did their tests in a Colt Delta while Speer used a Smith 1006.
Quote from: Bro KV on September 03 2012 07:14:45 PM MDT
Also, so crimp is only required for pistol?
Crimp is really a variable term.
In magnum revolver loads, and in many cast bullet loads for high powered rifle, you use a proper "roll" crimp. In this crimp the edge of the case mouth is rolled over and actually becomes a barb of sorts. The occurs in usually in a cannelure or crimp groove in the bullet. It is very positive and when properly applied prevents bullet movement during recoil. With light loads in high powered rifles shooting cast bullets it helps ensure uniform ignition and burn by preventing bullet movement too early.
This type of crimp can only be used in rounds that headspace from something other than the case mouth, such as the rim or the shoulder of bottleneck rounds.
For auto-loading pistol rounds you really don't crimp. You just remove the bell that is created to allow the bullet to start. Any pressure beyond removing the bell applied at this stage will not have the desired result. The projectile is less "springy" than the brass case and you will swage the bullet down and have loose tension on the bullet.
For rifle rounds there is almost never a crimp at all. We don't usually bell the case and the neck tension is adequate to hold the bullet. There are special cases like cast bullets or dangerous game rounds like the 460 Weatherby or 505 Gibbs. As mentioned before, these rounds get a roll crimp.
So I just got some of these bullets
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/604854/rainier-leadsafe-bullets-40-s-and-w-10mm-auto-400-diameter-180-grain-plated-flat-nose-box-of-500-bulk-packaged
I am not really finding any data for loading these. Do they fall into a certain category? I have Blue Dot and AA7 powders and am looking powder ranges and OAL.
Quote from: Bro KV on September 05 2012 12:09:03 AM MDT
So I just got some of these bullets
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/604854/rainier-leadsafe-bullets-40-s-and-w-10mm-auto-400-diameter-180-grain-plated-flat-nose-box-of-500-bulk-packaged (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/604854/rainier-leadsafe-bullets-40-s-and-w-10mm-auto-400-diameter-180-grain-plated-flat-nose-box-of-500-bulk-packaged)
I am not really finding any data for loading these. Do they fall into a certain category? I have Blue Dot and AA7 powders and am looking powder ranges and OAL.
Ranier are OK, if you want .40 velocities for target rounds. If you try real 10mm velocities, you'll be lucky to hit the barn, let alone the broad side.
What do you guys use as far as bullets and powder?
I use cast bullets. Both Lee 175 SWC TL and a custom 205 grain.
I recently picked up 250 Nosler 135 gr JHP's and 250 Berry's 180 grain. The Noslers were just to play with. The Berry's are for a light load to shoot a GSSF match with on the 29th.
Congrats on getting going! That's awesome! Do you plan on chronoing any of your loads?
Quote from: REDLINE on September 06 2012 12:08:51 AM MDT
Congrats on getting going! That's awesome! Do you plan on chronoing any of your loads?
For sure, for now I just want to make sure I have the basics down. I need to invest in a chrono next. Actually I need a tumbler too, haha. Also the stuff to cast my own bullets too. I've been shooting for years and just started buying reloading stuff this year and man am I hooked. I mean shooting is one thing but this is a whole nother world, and they go together and then the cast your own bullets is just another step. I'm loving it and everyone here has been so helpful, I can't thank you guys enough. Just wish we all lived closer!!
Cool! I put up the screen shot of the user interface in the other thread. I like how it allows us to save the chrono data in any of 3 different layouts. It lets you save as straight text, but either vertically or horizontally, whichever you prefer. Or you can save it inside the user interface, if that makes any sense (where it is saved in a location/folder of your choosing, but still opens up the saved data within the user interface).
Congrats!
I will be making my first 10mm loads this weekend.
Using starline brass, CCI primers, Montana Gold 155 (that I have for the 40S&W) and probably 800X that I have left over.