10mm-Auto

General => Gunsmithing => Topic started by: Happy on November 01 2014 05:28:17 PM MDT

Title: Need new springs for a 1911
Post by: Happy on November 01 2014 05:28:17 PM MDT
Hello all,

I need some replacement springs for my 1911 style Kimber SS Target II in (10mm of course).
(http://themarksman.net/shop/image/cache/data/New%20Guns/Handguns/Pistols/Kimber/Kimber%20STS%20Target%20II%2010mm%20Left-1000x800.jpg)
My brass some how flies straight back and hits the range windows at head height 15 feet away,but does not hit me. I hand load 155gr to 1450 fps a lot. I am using a 20 pound recoil spring, all others are factory spec. I guess the factory standards for recoil and hammer spring are 18 and 23 pounds. I see Wolff has lots of choices. I heard on here a good idea was to increase the hammer spring to reduce the slide battering. How high should I go, 34 pounds, lol? My plan is to buy a 22 pound recoil spring and 28 pound hammer spring.
What are your thoughts?
Title: Re: Need new springs for a 1911
Post by: DenStinett on November 01 2014 06:12:11 PM MDT
Besides re-Springing, you can try to tune the Extractor and / or Ejector
Here's a nice vid on the Extractor Tuning:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENFoZPF2-FM
The Ejector all depends on which one you have installed
Hope this helps
Title: Re: Need new springs for a 1911
Post by: 10mmfan on November 02 2014 12:28:53 PM MST
You could try a flat bottom firing pin stop, my mainsprings are #25. But it does sound like you need extractor tuning.
Title: Re: Need new springs for a 1911
Post by: Happy on November 02 2014 03:38:07 PM MST
Quote from: 10mmfan on November 02 2014 12:28:53 PM MST
You could try a flat bottom firing pin stop, my mainsprings are #25. But it does sound like you need extractor tuning.

What does a flat bottom firing pin stop do?
Also, will "tuning the extractor" reduce the ejected brass distance?
Thanks.
Title: Re: Need new springs for a 1911
Post by: sqlbullet on November 03 2014 08:11:12 AM MST
A flat bottom firing pin stop changes the velocity profile of the slide by giving the hammer more leverage over the slide.  This eats up momentum. 

It is the first best action to take in slowing the slide down.  The second is a stronger main (hammer) spring.

Here is why.  Any energy you store in the recoil spring is released in accelerating the slide back forward.  This results in the slide hammering the frame and take down pin.

But, what is eaten up by changing leverage is just gone.  And what goes into the main spring just helps ensure good primer strikes.  Main spring increases do have some effect on trigger pull, but in a 1911 with a good trigger the change is minimal.

Get a flat bottom firing pin stop first.
Title: Re: Need new springs for a 1911
Post by: Mike_Fontenot on November 03 2014 08:35:34 AM MST
Quote from: sqlbullet on November 03 2014 08:11:12 AM MST
[...]
  Main spring increases do have some effect on trigger pull, but in a 1911 with a good trigger the change is minimal.
[...]

It had a big effect for me (for my particular 1911), but essentially ALL of the effect of mainspring stiffness on the trigger pull happened at the low end.  I wanted (and got, and have) a very light trigger on my 1911 (between 2-1/4lb and 2-1/2lb).  To get that, I needed to have an 18lb mainspring.  As soon as I go to a 20lb mainspring, the trigger pull gets unacceptably heavy.  When increasing the mainspring above 20lb, I saw little additional increase in trigger pull weight.  And using an 18lb mainspring hasn't seemed to actually cause me any problem ... when I had my mainspring all the way up to 28lb (the max I could buy), I didn't see any reduction in the distance that my gun threw the brass.
Title: Re: Need new springs for a 1911
Post by: Happy on November 03 2014 11:44:32 AM MST
Quote from: sqlbullet on November 03 2014 08:11:12 AM MST
A flat bottom firing pin stop changes the velocity profile of the slide by giving the hammer more leverage over the slide.  This eats up momentum. 

Thanks for the advice. Just looked at midwayusa.com, they have a lot of different brands and shapes. Which one is for a kimber?

It is the first best action to take in slowing the slide down.  The second is a stronger main (hammer) spring.

Here is why.  Any energy you store in the recoil spring is released in accelerating the slide back forward.  This results in the slide hammering the frame and take down pin.

But, what is eaten up by changing leverage is just gone.  And what goes into the main spring just helps ensure good primer strikes.  Main spring increases do have some effect on trigger pull, but in a 1911 with a good trigger the change is minimal.

Get a flat bottom firing pin stop first.

Didn't post my message just the quote the first time.
I'll try to get one. I noticed that my Kimber is a series 80 type 1911, for what it's worth. Midwayusa didn't have one in SS, but brownells.com does.