It appears that my G 20 does not like 10.1 grains of Blue Dot with a Hornaday 180 XTP. With a mag loaded with 14 rounds I fired. The magazine blew out the bottom of the gun and recoil was different and a slight powder burn on my right hand. I thought what the heck just happened. The case was stuck in the barrel but came out easily. The case head was laying on the canvas I put down to catch the brass. I did hit the target. My Glock is a stock Glock as it came from the factory. In checking over the gun I noticed the exctractor was gone. When I got home I pulled the bullets from the rest of the rounds and weighed the charge. They varied slightly from 10 grains to 10.2 grains. I checked the powder measure an RCBS that was set for 10.1 and it dropped a 10.1 three times in a row and a 10.2. In checking over the G20 it appears to be ok except no extractor. A Bummer day. The cases were new FC brass and primer a Winchester LP
(http://44henryrifle.webs.com/G20%203.jpg)
(http://44henryrifle.webs.com/G20.jpg)
Brass age and number of firings?
Had this brass been push through sized for a smile previously?
As mentioned in my first post the brass was FC new. However this brass was part of a bag of 1000 that I had purchased 10 years ago or more.
Just by looking at the pic, there may be a crack just forward of the mag release into the trigger guard, and possibly at the top edge of mag release going up into the frame.
Check it out really well.
Don't ask me how I know where to look :-X
Greg
Support issue.
Classic example of a stock GLOCK chamber's slop. Not to say that's the cause. But the pic show the weak area of (un)support...if that's a real word. Thanks for posting these. Glad you're able to.
Going by your statement that your charge of BD was in spec, did you measure oal of remaining rounds that lived? Any tight necks on the ones you pulled?
If it's any consolation, I've been there before and I'm a better handloader for it.
Looking at the primer it is still rounded, the pressure could have been OK, but seeing the case blown out leads me to believe there was a an issue when the brass was being stamped, stressed cracked case prior to being reloaded...which caused the failure of the brass...Its hard to tell from the picture but does the casing show like it was being pulled rearward like the gun unlocked early?
I have seen many Federal factory loaded FC brass split on initial firings in 10mm...
I have swapped to non captive recoil systems for my Glock pistols...
Thanks for sharing your experience
Good luck with the getting things fixed up!
I am just curious how a non captive recoil spring system would play into this? Not because I am questioning your knowledge or expertise but because I don't know?
I run 10.4gr of B dot all the time and no problems. I believe it was the brass.
Looks like a reloaded case that had a Glock smile. The weak area aligned for a second time and boom...crack big enough for bottom to be ripped off
I know he said new brass... But that's how it looks.
Quote from: Freetime on October 24 2014 07:51:18 PM MDT
I am just curious how a non captive recoil spring system would play into this? Not because I am questioning your knowledge or expertise but because I don't know?
Go to this link you read about my measurements...
Quotehttp://10mm-firearms.com/gunsmithing/wolff-gun-springs/
Thanks Shadow. I will look it over
Quote from: Geeman on October 24 2014 05:47:45 PM MDT
Just by looking at the pic, there may be a crack just forward of the mag release into the trigger guard, and possibly at the top edge of mag release going up into the frame.
Check it out really well.
Don't ask me how I know where to look :-X
Greg
Thank you very much for the advise. I got out the magnifying glass and went over the frame. I compared it with the G30s frame to have a good idea to see if anything was different. So far the only thing that it needs is the extractor. However with that said which aftermarket barrel has the best case support? I am thinking about replacing the factory with a 6 inch KKM barrel. Any opinions and advise welcomed.
Also I am going back over the last couple of hundred rounds I loaded using the FC brass and pull the bullets and get rid of the brass. As I mentioned this was all new virgin brass that I had purchased several years ago in a 1000 brass bag.
Again any opinions and advise welcomed.
Thanks
Starline having 10mm brass right now ... :)
Edit... Yesterday, this morning all gone.
Quote from: Sean Thornton on October 24 2014 02:18:09 PM MDT
It appears that my G 20 does not like 10.1 grains of Blue Dot with a Hornaday 180 XTP. With a mag loaded with 14 rounds I fired. The magazine blew out the bottom of the gun and recoil was different and a slight powder burn on my right hand. I thought what the heck just happened. The case was stuck in the barrel but came out easily. The case head was laying on the canvas I put down to catch the brass. I did hit the target. My Glock is a stock Glock as it came from the factory. In checking over the gun I noticed the exctractor was gone. When I got home I pulled the bullets from the rest of the rounds and weighed the charge. They varied slightly from 10 grains to 10.2 grains. I checked the powder measure an RCBS that was set for 10.1 and it dropped a 10.1 three times in a row and a 10.2. In checking over the G20 it appears to be ok except no extractor. A Bummer day. The cases were new FC brass and primer a Winchester LP
What was the cartridge overall length?
Could you have had something in the barrel?
.
Quote from: The_Shadow on October 24 2014 07:39:05 PM MDT
Looking at the primer it is still rounded, the pressure could have been OK, but seeing the case blown out leads me to believe there was a an issue when the brass was being stamped, stressed cracked case prior to being reloaded...which caused the failure of the brass...Its hard to tell from the picture but does the casing show like it was being pulled rearward like the gun unlocked early?
I have seen many Federal factory loaded FC brass split on initial firings in 10mm...
I have swapped to non captive recoil systems for my Glock pistols...
Thanks for sharing your experience
Good luck with the getting things fixed up!
ATK (Federal, Speer, Blazer) make some of the best brass for 9mm, 380, 40S&W, and 45ACP. Their 40S&W brass is thicker than the other ammo company's brass. I would think they would do the same for the 10mm brass.
.
Just out of curiosity I decided to compare my Glock 30s .45 barrel to my Colt 70 Series 1911 .45 barrel. The comparison is not a confidence builder.
(http://44henryrifle.webs.com/colt%20glock.jpg)
These are the G-29 barrels
Storm Lake 40, Storm Lake 10mm, Factory 10mm. LWD 357Sig and LWD 9x25Dillon
(https://s20.postimg.org/rvcl647m5/IMG_0333-1.jpg)
Here is another thing to consider, long casings can also increase the unsupported area... :o
The frame is unhurt and a new extractor put in. I went through 2 boxes of Remington factory 10mm and 30 rounds of the Double Tap 165 bullet rounds I had. Then ran 100 rounds of my handloads in new DT nickel brass, 180 XTP and 9.6 Blue Dot(will move up to 10 grains). All rounds fired without any problems. Examining the brass there seemed to also be no problems.
My conclusion is that the new unfired FC brass that was over 10 years old was the problem. The FC brass has now found its way to the recycle bin to be sold as scrap. Since Starline was out of brass I ended up purchasing 500 the DT nickel brass which is all the 10mm brass I could find.
Thank you to all that responded.
Now on to finding a DW Razorback or a Kimber Stainless Target II.