I just joined and I am curious on the best setups you have found for 1911's I have a RIA 10mm with a 18 1/2# recoil spring and 26# mainspring and a flat firing pin stop. I also just bought a new kimber tle ii in 10mm currently stock.
Good set-up. Same one I run in my Para P16/40/10mm.
How do the mags work on the para any modification needed?
Pics are always needed it is a RIA I swear.
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I really like those grips
Nice, very nice! 8)
The grips are custom made water buffalo horn it took nearly six months to get them.
I've tried several times to post a pic but keeps saying the file is too big. On my RIA, I've polished the sides of the slide,frame, trigger and hammer(in the white) and it looks like a Kimber Eclipse. Tthe Kimber will be my next one.
But on my Rock 10, a 20# recoil, 22# main spring and flag bottom firing pin stop have given me the best results. The brass piles up neatly and consistently about 15' away.
I do have a 22# Wolff recoil and 25# main springs to try but why change a good thing.
Wish I could post this iphone pic. Steve
Quote from: harleyhopper on April 29 2014 01:56:40 AM MDT
I've tried several times to post a pic but keeps saying the file is too big. On my RIA, I've polished the sides of the slide,frame, trigger and hammer(in the white) and it looks like a Kimber Eclipse. Tthe Kimber will be my next one.
But on my Rock 10, a 20# recoil, 22# main spring and flag bottom firing pin stop have given me the best results. The brass piles up neatly and consistently about 15' away.
I do have a 22# Wolff recoil and 25# main springs to try but why change a good thing.
Wish I could post this iphone pic. Steve
Which kimber are you looking at? My kimber isn't broken in yet but right now my groupings are much tighter with the RIA
Likely Wesnesday afternoon I will replace my mainspring, mainspring housing, recoil spring and firing pin stop on my kimber
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The Eclipse Custom in 10mm. Don't know why as the Rock is just fine. Thinking about going by the FFL today
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b391/harleyhopper/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04/6F2313CE-4FFD-4CBB-B101-167AE06E5493_zpscpoeh3x7.jpg)
Let's see if this works
Fixed by The Shadow
You needed the IMG code to make the picture work...
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j441/_The_Shadow/f5a5cb51-6446-4cf1-9e53-5f92dd5fa87d_zps0d0a1ca3.jpg)
I just received my Para Elite hunter, no mods
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I for one am interested in the springs, you guys are using.
Steve,
I know you changed your springs, but I can't find in one place what worked for you.
I too have a RIA 10mm that is back at Armscor getting a bent extractor issue looked at. Mine is stock and I expect mine to come back with stock springs. So ...
What are the setups for:
mainspring
recoil spring
other important (non cosmetic) changes.
(I like the pretty stuff too, but I am trying to get a handle on the operating stuff.)
What came in mine, April of 2013 manufactor, must have been an 18# recoil and an unknown mainspring. When I talked with Ryan at Armscor, he said they realized they needed to up the springs because of the returns they were having. He said they were shipping 20# recoil and 22# main.
That is what I have in mine that works so good along with a flat bottom stop. I've got heavier springs but why mess with a good thing, Steve
See repl #7 above
My 10mm 1911 is a '91 Delta Gold Cup
It's had a few up-grades from stock, but has never let me down
Besides the 10mm Upper, it has a 9mm and a 22 Conversion, all are Series 80 Uppers
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h414/denstinettm14/Colt22lrColt9mmand10mm.jpg)
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h414/denstinettm14/ColtSet-up10mm.jpg)
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h414/denstinettm14/ColtSet-up22lrand9mm.jpg)
I run wolff 23# recoil and main springs and wilson recoil buffers in both my kimber and my colt, I had to upgrade my de to a wilson full length guide rod to run the single spring, my colt wears a wilson trigger, grip safety and magwell/housing combo,I put vz grips, screws and a nighthawk magwell/housing on the kimber. when I'm hunting and running full house loads through them I put in a 24# recoil spring.
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd27/rruusseell1/ab9cb6ce-e443-4fcb-b08a-6f03d4e665c3_zpsdff1a821.jpg) (http://s223.photobucket.com/user/rruusseell1/media/ab9cb6ce-e443-4fcb-b08a-6f03d4e665c3_zpsdff1a821.jpg.html)
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd27/rruusseell1/1DB3FCEB-E809-47D5-BA25-ED01AB2CE4F3-32373-000005E72F5E267F_zps4a415f75.jpg) (http://s223.photobucket.com/user/rruusseell1/media/1DB3FCEB-E809-47D5-BA25-ED01AB2CE4F3-32373-000005E72F5E267F_zps4a415f75.jpg.html)
I am running a Wolff 22# recoil spring and a Wilson shok buff, main spring still factory.
This is what 6yrs of carry and 10yrs of shooting does to the Eclipse finish (not much)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd319/bonehead069/P1010034.jpg)
Springfield Armory 1911A1 GI in .45.
Dan Wesson Razorback RZ-10 in 10mm,
Fusion Firearms Long Slide Hunter in 10mm
Bonehead, welcome to the forum! Great looking Eclipse and it looks to have served you well over the years.
Best regards! :D
Quote from: Bonehead on May 13 2014 04:47:49 AM MDT
I am running a Wolff 22# recoil spring and a Wilson shok buff, [...]
When I tried a shok buf in my 10mm Eclipse, I couldn't "slingshot" the slide to chamber the first round ... the notch in the slide couldn't be moved aft of the slidelock to release it. I didn't want to change my chambering technique to releasing the slide by pushing down on the slidelock, so I took out the shok buf. (I also tried using the Sprinco spring-loaded guiderod, and had the same problem ... couldn't slingshot the slide, so I returned it to Sprinco and got a refund).
Are you able to slingshot your 10mm Eclipse with the shok buf?
Also, my 10mm Eclipse has never seemed to cycle reliably with recoil springs heavier than the stock 18.5lb springs. What kind of mags do you use, and do you use the stock extractor?
Quote from: The_Shadow on May 13 2014 07:54:14 AM MDT
Bonehead, welcome to the forum! Great looking Eclipse and it looks to have served you well over the years.
Best regards! :D
Thank you for the welcome :D
Quote from: Mike_Fontenot on May 13 2014 08:38:31 AM MDT
Quote from: Bonehead on May 13 2014 04:47:49 AM MDT
I am running a Wolff 22# recoil spring and a Wilson shok buff, [...]
Are you able to slingshot your 10mm Eclipse with the shok buf?
Also, my 10mm Eclipse has never seemed to cycle reliably with recoil springs heavier than the stock 18.5lb springs. What kind of mags do you use, and do you use the stock extractor?
No, I can not slingshot mine.......but since I never use that style it does not bother me.
As far as mags go I have a couple Wilson 10mm and a couple factory ones, but I prefer to(always) use my .45 Wilson 47Ds and here as of late am switching over to their ETM mags...... have been using them in it for years.
The 10mm mags like you said can have an issue here and there, but they worked great in the 9mm Kimber I had......go figure :))
And yes the extractor is stock............the only thing other than the spring I changed was the trigger because I like the solid look better.
Quote from: Bonehead on May 13 2014 02:44:29 PM MDT
[...]
As far as mags go I have a couple Wilson 10mm and a couple factory ones, but I prefer to(always) use my .45 Wilson 47Ds [...]
Let me be sure I understand ... are you saying that you use Wilson .45ACP 47D mags in your 10mm Eclipse? I'm surprised that would work, because the 10mm mags have a ridge running down the inside of both sides of the mag, to reduce the width of the mag down to just slightly more than the diameter of the 10mm cartridges ... I would have guessed that, without those ridges, the 10mm cartridges would have too much freedom of lateral movement, and the top round wouldn't be centered well for feeding.
Quote from: Bonehead
[...] and here as of late am switching over to their ETM mags...... have been using them in it for years.
Are you saying you've used the 47D mags for years, but just recently have switched to Wilson's ETM mags? What motivated you to switch?
Yes thats is what I am saying, I have used my .45acp Wilson mags in my 10mm Kimber since I bought it 10yrs ago and have over 5000rds or so through it as of now.
The reason I am switching to the ETM mags are because I picked up a couple to use with the TRP I had..... I tried them in the 10 and noticed when they are filled with 9rds of 10mm they lock in a lot easier than than the 47Ds do when filled with 9rds.....so now I want more of them ;D
The ETM have a slightly longer body on them as they were designed to be 8rd .45 mags from the start, the 47D was a 7rd to start as the 47 and we refitted to make them 8rd (47D).
When the 47Ds are full and you are putting them in with the slide closed they have to be slammed to seat right (in both 45acp and my 10mm), so the ETMs just seem to work better all the way around.
I also had an issue ever once in a while where my Wilson 10mm mags when full or close to it would bulge in the middle of the body enough to rub the trigger bow basically holding the trigger back and keeping it from resetting, switching to the ETM also solved that.
It is funny you mention the ridges in the mag , one of my Wilson 10mm mags is the old style mag from when they were packaged as Wilson-Rogers and it only has a ridge on one side :)
I have ran the wilson .45 mags in both my 10's and my 45's for years without a hitch as well.
Quote from: gandog56 on May 13 2014 05:41:30 AM MDT
Springfield Armory 1911A1 GI in .45.
Dan Wesson Razorback RZ-10 in 10mm,
Fusion Firearms Long Slide Hunter in 10mm
And now, an RIA TAC II 10mm.
I wish I had the computer skills to post pics. Shadow I readied your how to but I don't have the know how. Hopefully if my daughter comes to visit and I think about it I will have her set it up. I sure do enjoy looking at all these sweet 1911. Keep the post coming guys.
Quote from: Bonehead on May 13 2014 08:18:22 PM MDT
Yes thats is what I am saying, I have used my .45acp Wilson mags in my 10mm Kimber since I bought it 10yrs ago and have over 5000rds or so through it as of now.
[...]
Thanks for all that info ... very interesting, and surprising (to me).
I think all of the Wilson mags are "out" for me, though, because I need a flat-bottomed mag (no base-plate) ... I carry my Eclipse in a homemade vertical under-the-shirt shoulder holster (full-time, from pajamas-on until pajamas-off), and I can't tolerate any increase in the length of the handle at all.
I've been using 10mm Checkmate 9-round mags, although I only load them to 8 rounds (I had some failures to feed the top round when the mag was loaded with 9 rounds). They've been working well, loaded with 8 rounds, but on my last range trip, I got a nose-up jam on the last round of one of my carry mags. I've watched as I slowly chamber a single round from the mag, and so far I can't see how that malfunction could possibly happen, but it did. The Checkmate followers have a small "bump" which engages the rear groove of the casing, right before the cartridge moves forward enough to be released from the mag, so slowly-fed movement DOES hang-up momentarily at that point, but it doesn't take much force from the slide to start it moving again, and the motion is smooth (and quick) after that. I've THOUGHT that that "bump" is probably a GOOD feature, because my Kimber mags (which have no "bump", and feed completely smoothly) often allow a round to be pulled forward when the round above is feeding, and that has sometimes caused problems. The Kimber mags also seem to have much weaker springs that all the other mags I've tried. For the next few range trips, I'm going to do shoot mostly nearly empty mags (2, or at most 3 rounds), to see if the final-round feeding problem occurs again. If so, I'll need to try to eliminate that problem somehow.
Mike, are you the guy running a #30 mainspring in your Kimber? I was Googling --1911Tuner 10mm-- and found several threads concerning the proper setup in regards to recoil/mainspring setups.
My Kimber Eclipse 10mm was bought used. Unknown springs. OE, as listed in the manual, 18.5 recoil/21 main. Mine had a Wilson ShokBuf installed. My Rock Island runs very well with a 20/22 setup. Currently, my Kimber has a 18.5 recoil/25 main Steve.
Quote from: harleyhopper on May 18 2014 04:31:09 PM MDT
Mike, are you the guy running a #30 mainspring in your Kimber?
A while back, I tried increasing the mainspring as much as possible (I seem to remember 28lb was the max I could find), combined with a flat-bottomed firing-pin-stop. I didn't like the heavier trigger that gave me, and it also didn't seem to have any positive effect, as far as I could see. To get the very light trigger I wanted, I had to go all the way down to 18lb for the mainspring. So for a good while now, I've been using an 18.5lb recoil spring (Wolff), and an 18lb mainspring (still with the flat-bottomed fps). When I've tried heavier recoil springs in the past, I've always seen more jams, so I went back to the standard 18.5lb recoil spring. I also use a very relaxed grip, with relaxed and bent wrists and elbows ... my gun seems to like that better (reduces the slide velocity a bit, I think), and I certainly prefer to shoot that way. With the current setup, it had been flawless for the last four range trips (usually 25 rounds per session ... I shoot up my three carry mags, all with close-to-full-spec DoubleTap Nosler JHP (alternating 150gr, 180gr, and 200gr in each mag)). But on the last range session, I had a nose-up jam on the last round of my 1st re-load mag ... a real downer ... I had thought I'd finally gotten it running completely reliably.
Quote
Mine had a Wilson ShokBuf installed. My Rock Island runs very well with a 20/22 setup.
I've never been able to use a shok-buf, because it prevents my slidelock notch from being able to move aft of the slidelock, so I can't slingshot it to chamber a round. Can you slingshot yours with the shok-buf?
The shokbuf was in it when I received it from my FFL with unknown springs. I had searched and I think it was one of your threads where you were trying to reduce the brass slinging. My first outing, I was only able to shoot 32 rounds. 2 supplied Metalform mags. I shot both mags twice at 8 rounds apiece. Brass was everywhere. From 30 ft to 2 actually hitting me in the head. Before going out again, I had Googled 1911tuner and found his spring advise. On my 2nd outing, I took a 18.5 and a 20 recoil and I had installed a 25 main. No shokbuf. I shot almost 2 boxes of Remington 180gr. I could not tell anydifference in the guns performance from one spring to the other and also in regards to the brass slinging other than it seemed to be more consistent. I don't mind if it slings 15-20 ft as long as it is pretty consistent. What I did notice after thoroughly cleaning, installing a series 70 EGW firing pin stop with just the edge stoned, the #25 main spring, and running either of the 2 recoil springs was the last round(these are 8 rd mags) jamed standing straight up with the slide catching it in the middle of the case. Remember, the 1st outing limited to 32 rds was flawless. Probably just didn't shoot it enough. Anyway, another Google showed that that particuliar jam was magazine springs. Calling Kimber and giving my serial#, my gun was built in 3/10/06. I called Wolff springs and have some Colt Delta mag springs coming. Probably be here tomorrow. I also should be getting a shipment of Ga Arms 10mm ammo delivered tomorrow. I'm sure the Boss Lady will question all this.......
Steve
Quote from: harleyhopper on May 18 2014 06:57:12 PM MDT
The shokbuf was in it when I received it from my FFL with unknown springs.
I couldn't tell from your post whether you are still using the shok-buf. Were you (or are you) able to slingshot the slide with the shok-buf? (Or, did you immediately take it out, and never try to slingshot with it?)
Quote
[...]
What I did notice after thoroughly cleaning, installing a series 70 EGW firing pin stop with just the edge stoned, the #25 main spring, and running either of the 2 recoil springs was the last round(these are 8 rd mags) jamed standing straight up with the slide catching it in the middle of the case.
That sounds like what I saw, exactly. The recovered round was very slightly shorter than my other rounds ... the bullet was set very slightly deeper. But I suspect that happened as a result of the jam, rather than causing the jam.
Quote
Anyway, another Google showed that that particular jam was magazine springs. [...] I called Wolff springs and have some Colt Delta mag springs coming.
Interesting ... did that Google search imply that the problem is too-weak springs? Are the Colt springs stronger? I ordered, and just received, a Wilson mag spring and follower (from Midway), that is supposed to work (without or without the Wilson follower) in a metalform mag (which is who makes Kimber mags, I think). I may try that, if I see that problem again ... I'm going to shoot a lot of 2-round mags on my next range trip, just so I can get more testing of the feeding of that last round. The springs in the Checkmate mags I've been using are stronger than the springs in the Kimber mags ... in fact, right after I bought those Checkmate mags, I had a jam chambering the first round when I loaded the mag to the full 9 rounds (too much upward pressure on the top cartridge, I think), so I've just been loading them to 8 rounds since then ... perhaps it would work with 9 now, since the constant 8-round state has probably weakened the springs slightly.
I spent some time loading both the Checkmate mags and the Kimber mags with 8 rounds, and then just slowly pushing the top round forward with my finger (with the mag out of the gun), and watching for any tendency (especially on the last round) for the cartridge to flip nose-up when it gets released by the mag. The Checkmate DID show more nose-up motion on the last round, but the surprising thing (to me) was that the Kimber mag showed MUCH MORE ... the last round consistently flipped 180 degrees!
I then tried loading one round in the Checkmate mag, inserted it into the gun, and then SLOWLY allowed the slide to move forward, while carefully watching for any tendency for the cartridge to go nose-up ... it never did ... when moving that slowly, the rim of the cartridge catches on the little bump in the Checkmate follower (as intended, I think), but when I relax my hold on the slide slightly, the slide suddenly frees up and the cartridge always quickly slides right into the chamber.
I then tried to do the same thing while allowing the slide to move slightly faster (although still VERY slow compared to when the slide cycles after firing), and the chambering was always as smooth as butter. That test made it seem impossible to get a nose-up jam. I can't see how it can possibly happen (but I know it can, and did, happen). A complete mystery to me. I sure wish I could have seen a high-speed movie of the cycling when I got the nose-up jam ... I have a feeling that there might be some surprising and unexpected things going on, that just don't occur at slow slide speed. I've also never had a jam when I chamber the first round (with only one round in the mag), like I do every time I clean the gun and put it back into service ... that supports my suspicion that something is happening during the super-fast cycling of real firing that just doesn't happen when slingshotting the first round into the chamber (or when manually moving the slide forward) ... maybe the slide is bouncing off the rear stop, and going forward faster than it would due to spring pressure alone?
I've shot around 200 rounds in the last couple of weeks in this Eclipse. After shooting the 1st outing at 32 rounds(limited in time) and then cleaning, that's when I found the shok buf. I removed it. Then I shot 2 boxes. These 100 rds had the 25 mainspring and varied between the 18.5 and 20 recoil---no shok buf.
Today, I said "what the heck" and put the shok buf in. Along with the 18.5/25 spring setup. I shot a box. 2 of the 50 spent cases landed at my feet and they were mangled. The rest of the brass were anywhere from 10 ft to around 25 ft. One of the guys over on the 1911 forum asked if I had a shok buf. Then he went on to suggest a flat bottom firing pin stop and possibly a heavier spring.
After cleaning, and removing the shok buf, I thought I'd set it up close to my Rock 10mm. It runs a 20/22 setup. The brass using it is in a somewhat neat circle of about 8ft at a distance of 15ft. Doesn't take long to collect at all. I didn't have another 22 mainspring but did have a 23. So that is the way it will be tried on the next outing. A 20#recoil/#23 main.
The Wolff mag springs for a Delta Elite came in today as well as 500 rounds of Ga Arms ammo. The mag springs are way longer and stronger than what I pulled out. So, we'll throw that in the mix as well. Might should have waited on the mag sorings but didn't see any harm going ahead.
I can always put all the original springs back in. My Rock wasn't this hard to dial in. Steve
Hi, been reading the threads, first time posting.
Proud owner of a Kimber Custom Eclipse II 10mm. Like other posts here have mentioned; I had a shok buf on mine and could not slingshot the slide. Ended up removing it. The slide stop did have a tendency 3 times in 300+ rounds to lock prematurely.
Determined the cartridge was nudging it up slightly. Took a small swiss file and removed a very small amount of material from the point where it engages on the follower.
Polished the filed area with a dermal tool/felt wheel with Flitz. Slide lock problem disappeared. Currently running stock everything with the exception of Operator II VZ Grips.
So far have put thru about 1500 rounds and with no issues except the aforementioned slide stop issue.
Hey cgreth. Was your Eclipse used? Reason I'm asking is because when I called Kimber customer service to find out my date of manufacture with the serial#, I asked them about the shok buf. They said they didn't recommend them. Steve
Brand new. I had one on order for about 3-4 months from my LGS. I was in another store one day looking for powder and happened to glance down and they had a new one in the case. Couldn't resist.
I had added the shok-buff during my initial cleaning and lube before heading out to the range. I run them on my SA Loaded with no issues. After comparing the Kimber slide and the SA slide, I see that the channel milled into the Kimber slide for the slide stop to get disengaged by is almost 2x longer than the SA channel. The shok-buff reduces the rearward travel of the slide just enough to cause the slide stop to not disengage.
By the way for the premature slide lock issue, I had contacted Kimber and they sent a new slide stop. I ran that and had the same problem. That is when I decided to modify the original slide stop.
My three 10's
Top to bottom
Dan Wesson RZ=10 Razorback
RIA Tac II 10mm
Fusion Firearms long slide hunter
The springs are whatever the makers put in them. The Fusion came with a set of different poundage springs to fine tune it, but the one that was installed works fine.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v196/Gandog56/SANY0191_zpsf7367415.jpg)
Nice !!!
ganddog56, that Fusion has to be a delight to shoot! They are looking a little lonely, you may need another one! LOL :)
Quote from: The_Shadow on May 25 2014 10:18:23 AM MDT
ganddog56, that Fusion has to be a delight to shoot! They are looking a little lonely, you may need another one! LOL :)
Come on, they used to be just twins. ;D
Colt Delta Elite. Wilson Combat multi-Comp bushing compensator. Stainless bullet proof spring plug. Stainless Recoil spring guide & 22# recoil spring. I swapped out Colts original double spring with single and it works so much better. And of course Crimson Trace laser grips.
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Yeah, ambi safety on the RIA is the only reason it doesn't sport a set of Crimson Trace grips. You can see the other two do.
I have a RIA 10mm too and had the safety swapped to a single and have Crimson grips on it but you also have to remove the mag feed so they fit flush.
Quote from: gandog56 on May 25 2014 06:28:14 AM MDT
My three 10's
Top to bottom
Dan Wesson RZ=10 Razorback
RIA Tac II 10mm
Fusion Firearms long slide hunter
The springs are whatever the makers put in them. The Fusion came with a set of different poundage springs to fine tune it, but the one that was installed works fine.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v196/Gandog56/SANY0191_zpsf7367415.jpg)
Is that Fusion drilled & tapped ? I think the EEA hunter is I cant remember.
Drilled and tapped for what? There is no scope on it.
Oh, no....that would have been an option. I just use the laser grips. The fiber optic pipe is nice if ther laser's batteries die.
Here is a Fusion that was. (Not mine)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/servarw/Hunters/CharlesCTactHunter-3.jpg)
It is the EEA Witness Hunter that comes drilled & tapped. You can put a Holographic site on without that big ass bracket. Were not a loud to use laser to hunt with in Fl. That's why I was wondering about your Fusion. It looks like a pretty nice gun. Yours is the first one I ever saw. I didn't even know they were made.
Quote from: Deerslayer on May 26 2014 05:45:58 PM MDT
It is the EEA Witness Hunter that comes drilled & tapped. You can put a Holographic site on without that big ass bracket. Were not a loud to use laser to hunt with in Fl. That's why I was wondering about your Fusion. It looks like a pretty nice gun. Yours is the first one I ever saw. I didn't even know they were made.
And apparently WELL MADE! I like it, just got the RIA for a cheaper plinker 10mm to keep in practice for the Fusion and the Dan Wesson and save wear and tear on them.
So far the RIA is fine, too.
Just a couple. I bought a 91-92 Delta Gold Cup. The only change I made was new grips as Colt was still grooving the front of the frame back then.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/dakota1911/GCDelta2_zps41c57897.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/dakota1911/media/GCDelta2_zps41c57897.jpg.html)
The second is a Commander size DW Classic.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/dakota1911/DANWES10.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/dakota1911/media/DANWES10.jpg.html)
Welcome to the Forum Dakota
Gotta love the Delta Gold Cup
I have done a "bit" more than change-out the Grips on mine
Quote from: DenStinett on May 28 2014 10:05:10 PM MDT
Welcome to the Forum Dakota
Gotta love the Delta Gold Cup
I have done a "bit" more than change-out the Grips on mine
OK, denstinett! Spill the beans.
Quote from: harleyhopper on May 29 2014 05:20:20 AM MDT
Quote from: DenStinett on May 28 2014 10:05:10 PM MDT
Welcome to the Forum Dakota
Gotta love the Delta Gold Cup
I have done a "bit" more than change-out the Grips on mine
OK, denstinett! Spill the beans.
From a couple pages back:
http://10mm-firearms.com/10mm-semi-auto-handguns/what-are-your-1911-setups/msg30386/#msg30386
Well, It's not a whole lot......
Custom fit Fully Adjustable Meprolight Tritium Night Sight Set
Wilson Combat; Grip Safety, Hammer (with matched Sear and Spring), Disconnector, Barrel Link, Ejector and Mag Release
Hart's, Shock Reducing Guide Rod, with a Shok-Buff and a single Wolff X-Power Recoil Spring
Gunsite, Low Mount / Hi-Hold Thumb Safety (I REALLY love this thing)
Colt Matte Stainless Slide Release (no biggy there)
Colt 1911-A1 Main Spring Housing
Custom fit Hogue WrapAround Grip
Stainless Grip Screws and Matte Stainless Pins (no biggy there either)
6 total Mags
Then, just for fun, I added a Colt 22 Conversion Unit and a Colt 9mm Conversion Slide (both are Series 80 Slides) with 5 Mags each
The 9mm Conversion has a hand fit Barstow, Stainless Barrel and Stainless Bushing and a Colt Matte Stainless Slide Stop
Here's an interesting note:
Both the 22 and the 9mm Unit uses the same Recoil Spring, but all three Calibers use their own Slide Stop
Just to name a few.... 8)
If Springer would ever make a 10mm, I'd do the same that I did to this Mil-Spec. C&S hammer, otherwise all internals and small parts are EGW. 2-1/2lb trigger (did it myelf and have 600 rounds on it already - it proves AND the thumb safety works). Oh, and an Aristocrat sight set.:
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