I'm going to the range in the next day or two, and I'll probably put at least 500 rounds through my RIA 10mm. This will be my first range session with this pistol, and my main concern is reliability. I've thoroughly inspected/cleaned the gun, and it seems very tight. The recoil spring feels a little light, though, especially since some of the range time will be with Buffalo Bore's hotter loads. In addition to a heavier recoil spring, are there any other mods that I should make? Any/all advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
Here's the page for Wolff springs for 1911's. But what makes you so sure the original is not good for what you're planning to shoot?
http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/COLT/1911%20GOV%27T%20PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1#799 (http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/COLT/1911%20GOV%27T%20PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1#799)
Before I swapped out the recoil spring I would certainly get a flat bottom firing pin stop (EGW "Oversize"). It will take about 5 minutes of file work to get it to fit the gun (file the stop, not the slide).
This eats up energy without storing it and later putting it back into the frame when the slide returns to battery.
Read more here: http://forum.m1911.org/showpost.php?p=932193&postcount=28
Gandog, thanks for the link to Wolf springs. I think a recoil spring change is needed because I own several 1911's, all 45's, and all of them have heavier springs than my 10mm. It seems like it would be throwing brass thirty feet with heavy loads, not to mention the beating the gun would take.
Sql, thanks for the info on the fbfp stop. I will certainly replace the original asap!
Guys, thank you again for your help. I will give you the range results, both before and after the mods, as soon as I can.
Quote from: Mr. AR50 on July 08 2013 10:52:05 AM MDT
Gandog, thanks for the link to Wolf springs. I think a recoil spring change is needed because I own several 1911's, all 45's, and all of them have heavier springs than my 10mm. It seems like it would be throwing brass thirty feet with heavy loads, not to mention the beating the gun would take.
Sql, thanks for the info on the fbfp stop. I will certainly replace the original asap!
Guys, thank you again for your help. I will give you the range results, both before and after the mods, as soon as I can.
Hmmm, maybe a lighter spring because it isn't throwing a heavier .45 slug?
I don't know.
If you check that link...Ned Christiansen of Michiguns did some experiments and landed on a flat bottom firing pin stop with a 1/16" radius plus a 18.5 lb recoil spring results in about the same force to the frame block on a GI 1911 as 230 grain 45 ACP ball ammo.
That is the spring I would get, and it is the one I run.
I think a GI 1911 in 45 runs a 16.
When I got my custom built Fusion Firearms 10mm long slide, they also gave me a package of different strength springs, and a bushing wrench. ;D
Guys, thanks again for the help. My goal is to have a reliable carry gun, on the1911 platform, but in 10mm. My regular carry guns are my Kimber Raptor, and my Springfield Ultra Compact, both in 45 acp. I also always carry my Ruger LCR 357 as a back up. Ever since I took my friends' RIA 10mm for a test drive, I've been thinking what a great round it would be for concealed carry. I'm actually pretty excited about getting my own RIA ready for carry duty.
If it were me, I would get a slightly heavier recoil spring, a EGW flat bottom firing pin stop, and a heavy mainspring
How much heavier on the mainspring would you recommend?
The most common recommendation I've seen is 22#
I talked with Phillip at Armscor today, and he's sending me a 20# recoil spring, and a 23# mainspring. There's also a fbfp stop on the way from EGW. I've got to hurry and get to the range before the parts get here next week, so I can have a before and after range report.
Thanks for all of the help everyone, I really appreciate it.
Just an FYI, I shot 100 today with the new FBFP stop. The other mod I have installed (without a comparison test) was a 20# mainspring. These two changes may have taken 2-3 ft. off the distance to brass. It's still 8-10 ft. to at least half. My best guess is the brass was spread from 3-15 ft. The good news is I didn't let a single case get away. Next test, along with some different loads, is to install the 22# recoil spring.
When you installed your stop, did you put any kind of a radius on the bottom edge, or did you leave it at a right angle? I've seen both ways recommended, but the general consensus seems to favor a slight radius of about 1/16 of an inch. I ordered three stops from EGW, just in case I make a mistake.
All I did was to "break the angle" which was to make a few passes across the sharp edge with the Swiss pattern file I used to make the fit. Really only took the sharp edge off. The stop I installed was a Wilson and had to be ground down on the top edge to accommodate the Kimber target sight, and had to take some off the bottom, as it stood a little long as well. I discovered this when I thought I was through and did a field strip. It sounds much more complicated than it really is, but some blue lay-out fluid is really helpful.
Thanks for the help, cmemiss. The tracking number shows my stops arriving sometime next Monday, which means I'm going to be busy Monday night. I'm definitely going to take my time, and do it right.
I'll be all ears for your report. I'm thinking of getting one to save wear and tear on my Dan Wesson Razorback and Fusion Firearms Long Slide 10mm pistols, since they both cost WAY more than the RIA. You got a good one, I just may do it.
Hey gandog, let me know if there are any specific loads that you want me to try. Right now, I've got about 400 rounds of some Hornady and American Eagle 155gr on hand, and maybe another 100 of the Buffalo Bore 180gr.
For 10mm I have my standard 185 grain reloads which are capable of this at 21 feet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v196/Gandog56/dwgroup.jpg)
I have some Underwood 180 TMJ and some Ted Nugent 180 grain HP I haven't tried out yet. I'm pretty much going to use 180-185 grain loads, since my Razorback seems to like them better.
I plan on putting just about every type of ammo known to man through my RIA over the next week or two. If there are going to be any problems, I want to know about them now, not when my life may depend on it.
You reload them? I could send you a few projectiles and my recipe.
Thanks gandog, I really appreciate the offer, but I should have said 'every factory load known to man.' I used to reload, and once I get back on my feet, I will become an ammunition manufacturing force of nature! :D
Well, like I siad, I have Underwood 180 grain TMJ, and Ted Nugent 180 grain HP's.
Hey gandog, have you had much experience with Underwood products? I just looked at their website, and if their ammo livesup to the hype, it's a good deal, especially at those prices.
Quote from: Mr. AR50 on July 15 2013 12:29:05 PM MDT
Hey gandog, have you had much experience with Underwood products? I just looked at their website, and if their ammo livesup to the hype, it's a good deal, especially at those prices.
Nope, first time after somebody here posted that they were in stock. At the same time, I ordered the Ted Nugent 180 HP's to compare them with, as I shoot my own reloads like 99% of the time.
Quote from: Mr. AR50 on July 09 2013 04:45:01 PM MDT
How much heavier on the mainspring would you recommend?
I would get the heaviest one I could find!
Why?? Too HEAVY a spring could be bad, too.
as i understand it, in a 1911 its much better to try to slow the slide down with the mainspring rather than the recoil spring
As per the RIA gunsmith, I'm installing a 20# recoil spring, and a 23# mainspring. That, plus my EGW fbfp stop, should get my me where I need to be. BTW, it's a good thing that I ordered three fp stops from EGW, because the first two that I modified were a little loose. Third time's the charm!
I hope EGW didn't claim it was a "drop in" part, then!
No, they didn't say that it was a 'drop-in' part. But they do need to put disclaimer on it saying that it will take electricians longer than normal to install. :o BTW, I just got my spring kit from RIA, and that 20# recoil spring was fun to install. :-\
Har har. I was in electronics, not electricity. I wouldn't even TRY to handfit it, having all the mechanical ability of a rotten orange. That's what I have a gunsmith for.
I finished installing my fbfp stop from EGW, which, BTW, required about two hours of filing and fitting to get it to fit properly. This makes three mods that I've made to the gun, and I have yet to send a single round downrange. I will say that it feels as tight as a bank vault, and it has a very good trigger for a mass produced firearm. One of these days, I may actually get to shoot it. ???
I was thinking about putting some parts on my Razorback. If you give EGW a thickness dimension is their any hope they can machine it close to that size? How hard is it to change the main spring? The other thing I want to do is full-length guide-rod.
The hardest part of changing a mainspring is keeping control of it and the plunger once you take the pin out. I've changed 3 MS on the 5 1911 pattern guns I have and while one got away, haven't had to buy a replacement plunger yet.
Still waiting to get my Kimber to the range with a 20# MS, FBFP stop, and 22# recoil spring. I've got some reloads I want to chrono (180, 185, and 190 lead) and see just how far the brass goes with the heavier recoil spring.
Changing my mainspring was fairly easy, all you need is a small vice to hold the housing while you're removing the spring. As for the EGW stops, it can't hurt to ask them about getting the stops at least a little closer to the dimensions that you need.I ordered three fbfp stops from EGW, and I ruined the first two by removing too much metal. By the time I got to #3, I was checking the fit after each pass of the file. :o
Quote from: Intercooler on July 21 2013 05:37:15 AM MDT
I was thinking about putting some parts on my Razorback. If you give EGW a thickness dimension is their any hope they can machine it close to that size? How hard is it to change the main spring? The other thing I want to do is full-length guide-rod.
Why I do NOT want to alter my Razorback! :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v196/Gandog56/dwgroup.jpg)
It would be scary if it made this pistol any MORE accurate.
Got to the range today with the new 22# MS. I fired some 184 gr LHP over 7.6 gr AA5 for an average of 1000fps, 188gr LHP over 7.2gr AA5, at 974fps and 192gr LFP over 6.8gr AA5 at 920fps (the MP mold from Cast Boolets). The Kimber was well behaved with the heavier spring dropping most of the brass 12 ft. to the right rear. There were still a few outliers, but a large tarp would have caught about all the brass. I think things will improve once it is broken in. I was really happy that leading was minor for 100 rounds. A couple of passes with a bore snake will make it look good (I only clean every 4-600 rounds unless there is extensive leading which has not been the case with most of my guns.
Hey cmemiss, nice report on the range time with your Kimber. I hope that my RIA performs similarly. How does it handle warmer loads, like Buffalo Bore and Double tap?