Beats me why. This happened on about the third shot trying it out with just the panels and no finger-grooves. I looked over at the side of it and thought it had a big scratch on the slide release. I'm like how did that get there! After looking it over the scratch turned out a two-piece! Not a huge issue but don't know how it happened.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/996804_557135254324511_487192395_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/21346_557135397657830_1350552754_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1011877_557136757657694_576421174_n.jpg)
I'll bet DW takes care of it, and probably in under two weeks.
Sorry to hear about that but that's a pretty easy fix and I'm sure DW will have you fixed up in no time. I noticed your slidestop notch was getting peened just like my CBOB. How fast and what loads are you shooting, you may need a heavier spring also. I'm not sure whats causing mine at this point but I sure don't like it.
I may have to pick up a 1006 in the future for the nuclear stuff.
I shoot all of them but today was Underwood 1300.
Where it broke and the piece moved apart from one another I had a scratch >:D
OUCH! :o
You know that pistol will probably still function but the slide lock lever won't activate properly. If my slidelock keeps beating up my slidestop notch I think I'll fix mine like yours. ;D
It works because I'm positive I put a round through it after the breakage. While I am replacing things I am thinking about ordering another flat bottom block for it and a full length guide-rod. I already have a 20lb Wolff spring in it but these mods may help.
Not surprised.Get a Glock. ;D
You really must not like me ;)
My Colt DE was peening and I noticed that the notch in slide was angled toward the front of the slide and slide stop was straight not allowing a full engagement of the FPS notch on slide. I filed it till it was same angle as pin and it hasn't peened since. On my BTRZ1O it fits fully into notch and never peened, but it hasn't been shot much as I'm saving it for grandson.
I put 50 rounds thru my new Kimber Custom TLE/RL 10mm, and it ran perfect, threw the cases of warm re-loads of mine 30-35 feet and the factory Win 175gr Silvertips went about 20 feet. Funny thing was every group were in about about a 4 foot circle.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x245/oldnavy6393/IMG_20130705_151138_791.jpg) (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/oldnavy6393/media/IMG_20130705_151138_791.jpg.html)
Here is the 50 foot target, not bad for old guy shooting in a 20 foot deep pit in 80F and 94% humidity weather. The were 5 magazines of 8 rounds each put in this target, one was fired as fast as I could pull trigger or about 10 seconds or tad less. I had to shoot from 50 feet because of water hazard in between self and target.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x245/oldnavy6393/Target02.jpg) (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/oldnavy6393/media/Target02.jpg.html)
Very cool! What are is the peening? Can someone circle it or show what they did so I can do a check when the new piece arrives?
Quote from: Intercooler on July 05 2013 06:11:36 PM MDT
Very cool! What are is the peening? Can someone circle it or show what they did so I can do a check when the new piece arrives?
Here's your pic as I don't have one of my gun. If you look at your slidestop notch that comes up to lock your slide back when your mags empty you can see were the metal is getting displaced-raised and distorted at the back bottom corner where the slidestop is banging against the notch. If you run your finger down the side of the slide over the notch you can probably feel the metal starting to stick out. It'll probably get worse when shooting nuclear loads.
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/21346_557135397657830_1350552754_n.jpg)
I see. What can I do to prevent it?
Hmmm. Must be a 1911 thing!
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=136724
http://forum.m1911.org/archive/index.php/t-73081.html
http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=5&f=49&t=85497
http://www.1911addicts.com/showthread.php?2380-GSG-1911-22-slide-stop-notch-peening
Seems it happens from a $500 pistol to a $5000 pistol. In this one the EGW stop sounds interesting but also the way they speak of filing the stop on an angle so it catches on the inside instead of outside edge. You won't see it then... who knows what will happen though.
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=167832
So it looks like you may be able to dress things a little with a file and stone. I guess you would just need to look at the pieces and see where you can make things better in doing this.
Here is my stop and you can see where that lower corner is taking the brunt of the force where the shiny spot is:
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1044155_557935254244511_1855025520_n.jpg)
Here you can see how it is sloped some towards that outside edge:
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/970960_557935330911170_1028482315_n.jpg)
In looking at it the angle should be reversed and it would throw the peen towards the inside. If you make it perfectly flat over the entire surface, it would only seem to help with the point loading you see on the stop. Possibly file the outer edge of the stop in just the contact point? I will have a fresh stop with no marks to try some tests on. Should I make it flat or just take some meat off that area where the shiny spot would be again?
Boy I don't know I'm just as confused as you are. I noticed though that my slidestop on my DW-Cbob doesn't go all the way into the cutout like it should. I've heard everything from heavier springs to flat bottom stops to fitting the slidestop into the notch better. I think I'll put in a call to DW next week and see what they can do for me. I'm not very mechanically inclined and tend to break stuff when trying to fix stuff. ::)
I looked at my Match and Hunter today which have thousands of high end 10mm rounds. Both look like new in that area although the design is a little different without a sharp corner! I wonder if that is the big problem here the almost flat corner?
It is interesting how sometimes small differences can make a noticeable difference in another aspect.
I would think the peening could be alleviated by filing the angle on the slide stop to match the angle in the slide.
I will have to look at my P16 tonight.
I have to send the broken one in and they will replace.
Quote from: Intercooler on July 04 2013 10:41:22 AM MDT
I shoot all of them but today was Underwood 1300.
Interesting. SF 200gr XTP @ 1300 fps broke a Greider stop? Interesting.
Stock firing pin stop plate? Stock recoil spring?
I think this piece was a fluke. Stock block and 20lb Wolff spring.
The new one arrived today. It appears a little more flat than angled in that contact area:
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1003658_561301380574565_1953481350_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/14772_561301483907888_66997437_n.jpg)