Any casters in the mix yet or am I the only one with Pb poisoning?
I figured the next great thing will be those new Nylon bullets :-\
Funny story, speaking of synthec materials.
Some of the guys at cast boolits shoot "gloolits", bullets cast of hot melt glue. They are great for back yard plinking, only need a primer, no powder in the case, etc.
So, one Sunday morning I am repairing a shoe and have the glue gun out and hot, and think "hey, lets give those a try". Not being one to read directions much, I preheat my favorite mold a bit on the stove and squirt the cavities full of glue.
Well, the directions clearly state to coat the mold with vegetable oil as a release agent. I glued my mold shut. Finally heated it and got it open and the gloolits out. Tried them out in the basement, and they do shoot pretty zippy with just a primer.
Ahhh, the fun we have as a do-it-yourselfer!
I cast a few different bullets for mine...Lyman 175gr TCBB and 156gr Devastator HP (same profile as the TCBB but with the hollow point) BTW the mold is obsolete (thanks Lyman)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j441/_The_Shadow/IMG_0430.jpg)
I also cast some RCBS 175gr TC which have a very tiny small SWC edge.
I have considered other molds like a 200gr but haven't jumped on that one yet.
A big pile of those devastators always makes me grin.
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 13 2012 03:49:41 PM MDT
A big pile of those devastators always makes me grin.
Wow, made me grin also! I shoot lead almost exclusively, just don't cast yet. Letting the lead gather in my shooting bunker. Will retrieve it some day to mold my own!
Casting is very rewarding, and I have found boolits I cast are usually superior to anything I can buy. Plus, if you can recycle your own range scrap, the cost becomes very low. Just a bit of electricity and time.
Shoot lead 99% of time, haven't got into casting yet. Been reading up on it alot lately , and relocating all the old wheel weights we have at work already.
Those wishing to learn more about casting A to Z and all aspects may find this site interesting and very useful!
http://www.lasc.us/ (http://www.lasc.us/)
LASC and cast boolits taught me about 90% of what I know. The Lyman Cast Boolit Handbook is also highly recommended.
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 17 2012 12:52:36 PM MDT
Casting is very rewarding, and I have found boolits I cast are usually superior to anything I can buy. Plus, if you can recycle your own range scrap, the cost becomes very low. Just a bit of electricity and time.
My contribution to the green movement: Recycling lead. I get a lot from a large club bullet trap. Lately though, I'm finding a lot of undesirable heavy metals in the mix. Not sure yet where it's coming from, but I got a batch with a bunch of cadmium and zinc in it. I suspect another caster is recycling batteries, and not too well. He'll probably turn up dead at some time, seeing how sloppy his alloys are. Lead in itself is bad enough. Cadmium will kill you, quick.
There are guys that are playing with Zinc boolits, but not very many. Both are a real pain and it is bad news to hear they are coming in range scrap. For many that is the last bastion of free lead since lead WW are starting become scarce.
I cast my own. Plated and FMJ cost more than I am willing to pay.
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 18 2012 04:06:09 PM MDT
There are guys that are playing with Zinc boolits, but not very many. Both are a real pain and it is bad news to hear they are coming in range scrap. For many that is the last bastion of free lead since lead WW are starting become scarce.
Yeah. WW's are getting scarce. Last year, my tire shop harvest was about 75% lead. Down to 50% this year. A real bummer, for sure. I don't like the zinc idea. Nice metal, but has side effects. I did some testing on pure tin, for muzzleloading. Looking for an alternative to lead-free hunting bullets. They shoot nice, fast and hit hard at the range, but too hard for anything else. Bismuth is the stuff, but more expensive than Barnes, in the end.
Shoot: yes. Cast: no. I've had good luck with Missouri Bullet Co. I'd really like to get into casting, I just never have.
I found my huckleberry in lead supply in radio-pharmacies. They use the lead for shielding of the nuclear isotope generators. I have a friend that works for such a local pharmacy.
Last year I purchased just shy of eight tons of scrap lead from them. This year I have already picked up over 3 tons. Most of it I resell to a commercial bullet caster (Precision Cast). I keep some for my own use obviously.
This lead is predominately 96% lead, 3% antimony, 1% tin. There are a few containers that are higher in tin, and the iodine shielding is pure lead.
Works out really well for me.
This mold works well, WQWW lubed with javelena. Shot in a glock 20.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/569185/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-401-175-tc-40-s-and-w-401-diameter-175-grain-truncated-cone
Ebner
I am a big fan of Lee 6 cavity molds. All the ones I have tried have been solid.
The two cavity molds are hit and miss. If you are willing to polish them with a casting and some toothpaste, they usually straighten up.
I wish they made a 200 grain .401 mold in 6 cavity. I would prefer a truncated cone or a RFN design.
Been casting for about 20 years now. I have 2- 10MM moulds a 190gr LFNGC and a 215 gr WFGC . Get WW while you can they are getting tougher to find.
Sean
Welcome to the forum Sean. What brand are hose molds and how many cavities are they?
Having the casting equipment insures you bullets should the SHTF or a less expensive way to shoot if you can obtain alloys at a reasonable price. Getting good wheel weights for free made the effort worth while, however the ecologist and tree huggers have messed that up... :'( Glad I obtained a small stash to last me for my needs. Roto Metals has some quality alloy specific metals for purchase, I don't know how there prices are as compared to purchasing cast bullets outright. ::)
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 19 2012 01:27:26 PM MDT......I wish they made a 200 grain .401 mold in 6 cavity. I would prefer a truncated cone or a RFN design.
Not too difficult. Get the Lee .41 SWC in 195 or 210 gr. Run them through your .401 sizer (use a little sizing lube), and viola! Resizing takes down the shoulder enough, you almost can't tell it's a SWC. Works with plated bullets, too. I have a bunch of Berry's 210 gr. FP's resized, loaded and ready for testing. Waiting for a cloudy day so I don't have to use the hood on my chrono. I don't like the .40 plated bullets for 10mm velocities (they come apart above about 1100 FPS). All of them have too thin copper. The Berry's plated mag bullets have 4x the copper, and resize very well. Hornady TMJ's are also "mag vel" plated. I may try some of those, too.
Quote from: The_Shadow on June 19 2012 02:41:07 PM MDT
Roto Metals has some quality alloy specific metals for purchase, I don't know how there prices are as compared to purchasing cast bullets outright. ::)
Last I checked you could buy cast bullets at gunshows for about $50-$75 per thousand. This is about the same price as lead from rotometals, which makes casting your own strictly a benefit if you need something unusual, or are need a non-standard fit or hardness.
As a general rule I don't care for commercial cast bullets. I think the alloys are on the hard side, I think the lube is way, way too hard, and I generally like my bullets .002" over sized compared to jacketed, while commercial are almost always only .001" over.
But, I get my lead very cheap. My opinion may change if I was faced with the same price to cast my own as to buy them.
Quote from: DM1906 on June 19 2012 02:49:42 PM MDT
Not too difficult. Get the Lee .41 SWC in 195 or 210 gr. Run them through your .401 sizer (use a little sizing lube), and viola! Resizing takes down the shoulder enough, you almost can't tell it's a SWC. Works with plated bullets, too.
I have tried this with some borrowed bullets. I wasn't happy enough with the result to make it a regular deal. I have a 205 grain mold I love, but it is only a two cavity. Every time I cast 45 acp for my pharmacy friend I am reminded of how fast you can make a stack of bullets with a six cavity mold.
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 19 2012 02:06:42 PM MDT
Welcome to the forum Sean. What brand are hose molds and how many cavities are they?
The 190gr LFNGC is a Accurate molds 3 cavity aluminum . The 215 gr WFNGC is a mountainmolds.com aluminum 2 cavity mold.The top bullet is the 190 gr LFNGC, bottom the 215 gr WFNGC.
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x150/475480/Sheridan4-21-12119-1.jpg)
My 205 gr is a Mountain mold. Great mold, casts great bullets. Just a little slow.
(http://fellingfamily.net/images/MM_205_FRN.jpg)
Yes it would be nice to have 4-6 cavity moulds for all my casting.
Sean
Same here. I shoot tons of cast bullets. Im just not the one who casted them. My bullet of choice is a 180grn Bear Creek moly coated bullet with a R.N.F.P profile...
I shoot mostly lead. Montana 200s, and a bunch I cast from a 3 banger Mountain Mold. I would really like one of the Lee 6 cavity, but they don't make them in a bullet I want.
I got the custom ones sorted out pretty well now, after 80 rounds or so, a few jacketed got the barrel mostly shiny. Hammering the 100 yd gong and not having to clean the barrel, priceless!
Quote from: Any Cal. on June 21 2012 02:28:17 AM MDT
I would really like one of the Lee 6 cavity, but they don't make them in a bullet I want.
Perhaps our first group buy if we can agree on a design. Lee will waive the set-up fee for orders of 30 molds. We may not get that high, but even if we have 10 of us, that spreads the set-up fee out to only $17.50 each.
In this picture are my 3 styles of 10mm/40cal cast bulletsand their length.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j441/_The_Shadow/IMG_0386.jpg)
I am just now getting into reloading after trying to find 10mm ammo. It was about 38.00 for a box of fifty and the only place that had them is a decent drive too. Is it a lot harder to reload your own casted bullets? I am going to read the info on the limk in this thread, but was thinking if i can get lead, it would be interesting to start casting my own.
I just got a lee classic turret and have not reloaded anything yet. I'm still in the reading and research stage.
shot lead from the stock barrel for a while, no leading to speak of. Changed to a LWD barrel, wanted a supported chamber was the biggest reason. Been shooting a RCBS 180 grain bullet at 1300 and like it lots. Want a 200 grain bullet to mess with and a hollow point version just for the splash.
mushraeddur, you need to step up your game...set that press up and get you dies ajusted are part of the process.
Do you have a scale...Balance Beam? or Digital? or just the LEE scoops with the charts? I like the RCBS balance beam for its accuracy and dampening features (some lack the dampening and take a long time to settle down) for measuring powder charges, the digital works well to find unknown weights fast, like unknown powder or bullet weights. Some digital scales only measure to the even numbers in the tents column...0.0, 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8. The scoops are fine if you are not loading to the edge of higher performance (target loads) practice & mid range loadings.
What ever you decide on you need to understand how it works, how accurate it is, and it helps if it is quick to weigh and stabilize.
Even if you don't have all your stuff together if you are using used brass, start by inspecting, sizing and depriming them as a single stage. You can even prime the cases in preperation of your loading secessions. If you have some loose bullets, you can set the expander die to true the case mouth opening and flairing just enough for the bullet's base to enter. This step will need adjusting if using cast vs. jacketed. Therefore you will be building you skill sets while learning how you and your equipment works together. ;D
I have a digital scale, the scoop that came with the 4 die set, and the pro auto disk measure. I will be using new starline brass and some win brass that will be fired by me through the same pistol i'm loading for. Is there a good cast lead bullet to buy as opposed to casting my own? I'd like to cast but finding lead has not been easy. If i have to buy lead that will cost as much as already casted bullets then i'd rather just buy them if they're worth buying.
I'll definitely start on lower levels until i learn everything well enough to load a little hotter.
My experience with commercial lead bullets is hit and miss.
To find out there are a couple of steps.
First, you need to know the groove diameter of your gun. Not the nominal diameter, the actual diameter. To do this you will need to slug the bore with a lead fishing weight that is a little bigger in diameter, and then measure the slug. There is an OK video of this process here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR_WiL8Dkgw). I do recommend a 3/8" oak dowel versus a tool steel drill bit as a drive rod though.
If you barrel slugs .400" or less, then most commercial cast .401" bullets will probably work OK. My Para slugs .399 and would probably be fine with commercial cast. My two Witnesses slug at almost .401" (probably .4008") and I get mild leading any any load of commercial cast bullets.
I size my cast bullets to just under .402", and they are fine in all my guns.
You are correct that the trick is to find a good lead source. I may have one for you. My brother-in-law is a dentist in the Louisville area. Depending on the type of x-ray in the practice they may generate lead foil. I can probably ask him to save it for you. I will find out if that would be kosher. It may not be enough to feed your habit, but it would at least get you started.
mushraeddur, There some who rave about these bullets with their proprietary coating, http://www.bayoubullets.net/index.html (http://www.bayoubullets.net/index.html) Their website is under construction so you may have to call them. View the demo YouTube
According to the collective wisdom at the Cast Boolits forum, you can duplicate this with Lee Liquid Alox and Moly powder. I find this something that would need testing as I find Lee Liquid Alox to be quite smokey, and doubt the addition of some Moly powder is going to change that much.
I think a better bet would be to use Johnson paste wax + Moly, or beeswax + moly. The trick with both of these is they won't coat easily at room temperature. This coincides with the statements in the patent about the process involving integrating the moly with a wax base that melts at 180
The coating they use has a polymer carrier (green color) from what I gather, simiular to the black bullets. I haven't used these but there are plenty who like them.
I've been happy with the Zambini red lube but I'm almost out and will be looking at Carnuba Red or Magma sticks for my Star sizer...I have some Felix sticks that I recieved I might rework them to use.
worked up to 1443 , es of 9 and sd of 3, with the RCBS 180 (191). Soft alloy sized .401, accurate might hard hitting, will try to find a rockchuck friday or sunday and observe results. No leading because I am not trying to make a lead bullet as hard as possible. I use Carnuba Red lube and really like it. I believe I am finished with load develepment
I am guessing the (191) is the as cast weight. Either way, that is a stout load. Well into the 800 ft lbs zone.
Glad to hear another who has discovered that harder isn't always (usually isn't) better.
Curious what the load is you have landed on. If I missed it in another post, just point me to it.
Oops, sorry. The powder is surplus WC 820 (lot 47320) at 14 grains. Was sold as Accurate #9, new #9 is different and easier to ignite. Yes the as cast weight is 191. Yup, stout load but its just a geelock and therefore replaceble if it falls apart from heavy use and loads. I bought it for a carry gun in northwest Wyoming, espcially for wolves in the winter but a face full of these might even give snotty grizzly a headache or worse the rest of the year.
I have been looking for a deal on WC820. But at $100 for 8 lbs it is no cheaper per load than longshot.
shot the same load today, different light. ave 1215, es 10 sd 5. Hmmmmmmmmmm, I will try again on a cloudy day if we ever get one again
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 26 2012 04:14:40 PM MDT
My experience with commercial lead bullets is hit and miss.
To find out there are a couple of steps.
First, you need to know the groove diameter of your gun. Not the nominal diameter, the actual diameter. To do this you will need to slug the bore with a lead fishing weight that is a little bigger in diameter, and then measure the slug. There is an OK video of this process here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR_WiL8Dkgw). I do recommend a 3/8" oak dowel versus a tool steel drill bit as a drive rod though.
If you barrel slugs .400" or less, then most commercial cast .401" bullets will probably work OK. My Para slugs .399 and would probably be fine with commercial cast. My two Witnesses slug at almost .401" (probably .4008") and I get mild leading any any load of commercial cast bullets.
I size my cast bullets to just under .402", and they are fine in all my guns.
You are correct that the trick is to find a good lead source. I may have one for you. My brother-in-law is a dentist in the Louisville area. Depending on the type of x-ray in the practice they may generate lead foil. I can probably ask him to save it for you. I will find out if that would be kosher. It may not be enough to feed your habit, but it would at least get you started.
;D
That would be awesome!! Let me know, i can give you contact info if needed!
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 28 2012 04:26:42 PM MDT
I have been looking for a deal on WC820. But at $100 for 8 lbs it is no cheaper per load than longshot.
Longshot is a little cheaper at the place i go: 89.95 for 8lbs.
If you are casting, don't ever turn down lead. Ever. You'll use it, or know someone who can (put me on the list). If you can't store it, find someone who can. It doesn't spoil. It's getting harder to come by. The reasons don't matter, the fact it, it is. If you have a ton, you don't have enough (and you'll be amazed how fast you can use a ton). Running out really sucks, as I found out some time ago. I'm back in the supply, and got the pigs a-rolling again. Less convenient, as I'm recycling range trap lead (messy, dirty, and a lot of work). I cast about 500-2000 rounds a week (and shoot up that many), and went through the tons I had a lot sooner than I would have ever thought.
If you're just getting into casting, get a store of lead (hundred(s of) pounds) while you're gathering up the equipment. You can't start with 20 pounds......you'll run out when you just get into a rhythm (which is as important as any aspect of the process). Take your time and don't be concerned with recycling your duds. Oh, and watch out for water. Water, in any form, is not your friend. Don't let so much as a bead of sweat drip from the bill of your hat into your pot! Dry your lead before introducing it into the pot, and go sloooooooow. Flux often as necessary or anytime you add lead, and use whatever is at hand. Commercial flux, paraffin, toothpicks, any dry organic material (it's the carbon you're after). A lot of us here have been doing it for a long time, so don't squander that resource. Our opinions may differ with methods, but the fundamentals and basics are the same, so take advice for what it is. Treat your equipment right and take care of it, and it'll last a long time. [ramble off]
Well I've added another mold to my 10mm line up...The RCBS 200 TC SWCwith belvel base, Midway had it on clearance and RCBS had a rebate so I jumped on that. ;D
(http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/large/224/224747.jpg)
Beautiful. I would love that mold if it had four more cavities.
Yes 4 cavities would be great, however two is still not as tough as working with the HP single cavity molds! Now I need a cooler day to cast some up! :'(
Quote from: sqlbullet on June 28 2012 09:30:17 AM MDT
Glad to hear another who has discovered that harder isn't always (usually isn't) better.
If you don't mind, I'ld be curious to hear more about "harder" usually not being better.
Also, for a cast 170-180 grain and an expected velocity of 1300fps at a minimum, what Brinell hardness would you suggest?
Most of what I cast is either straight wheel weight (air cooled) or for the rifles I add a little lineotype with gas checks.
I don't even hve a hardnes tester...Proper fit and good lube has been working well with these in my guns.
The last 357 mag I shot...Lyman 358429 Keith Style SWC
Powder-Power Pistol 7.6grs CCI 500 SP
COAL 1.620" Velocity 1222 fps from 6" S&W mod 19
Quote from: REDLINE on July 13 2012 06:29:13 PM MDT
If you don't mind, I'ld be curious to hear more about "harder" usually not being better.
Also, for a cast 170-180 grain and an expected velocity of 1300fps at a minimum, what Brinell hardness would you suggest?
Shadow mentioned it. Fit. FIT.
FIT.Most shooters who have leading issues, probably 90-95%, it is becuase they haven't slugged the barrel and found cast bullets a that are .001" to .002" over actual groove diameter. And they are running hard bullets that won't obturate (elastic deformation) and fill the last .001" to fit the bore. They get hot gas (plasma) blowby, which liquifies the lead and boom, terrible leading.
The remainder have odd ball issues. Revolvers with tight cylinder throats and large bores or tight lead and loose bore. Or a crimp die that is aggressive (Lee Factory Crimp) or out of adjustment. These scenarios take a bullet that may start the right size, and make it smaller before it gets to the rifling.
Finally, velocity. It really doesn't matter, except as an indicator of pressure. You need to keep the peak pressure below the plastic deformation limit for the hardness of the alloy you are using. I can push softer alloys like air cooled WW far faster in a rifle barrel than in a pistol, becuase I don't need the same peak pressure when I have an additional 22" of barrel I can accelerate the bullet.
I run all my cast bullets harder than needed for my applications. I shoot most auto-loaders. CZ clones, 1911's, M1 Garands, CETME (G3 Clone). For the rough ride the bullet nose gets making it to the chamber I like a bullet with a BHN of about 22-24. I cast from isotope lead (http://fellingfamily.net/isolead/) + and additional 1% tin. Water dropped from the mold these test after 1 week about 26-28 and after 1 year about 22-24. Usually I will cast a bunch up and then use them for several years. The 175 SWC I am loading now I probably cast 2-3 years ago. Water dropping also means I don't burn my fingers when I decide I have to look at one right now! They do have to be dried well before lubing.
I have run this alloy air-cooled in all my 10mm loads. Air cooled it is about 11-12 BHN.
I had leading a little when I first started casting. I hadn't slugged my guns (see paragraph 2). The loads that were below max would lead, just a little. Those at max didn't. At max I was developing enough pressure to reach elastic deformation, which sealed the bore. Below max, I wasn't and I got leading.
I finally slugged the two Witnesses. Both were about .4005" My bullets were sized to .401", only .0005". Honed out the sizing die to .402" and leading went away.
For more reading, check out threads at the cast boolits forum (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/) and the [urlhttp://www.lasc.us/castbulletnotes.htm]LASC cast bullets section[/url]. Probably in reverse order (lasc first).
More than anything, after you read up as LASC, listen to your gun. Better in general to start to soft, make sure you have fit, and increase hardness than the other way. Just like some guns won't shoot tight groups with jacketed bullets no matter what, some guns just don't like lead. I haven't encountered one yet, but have read of guys who have. I kinda suspect my son's Mosin won't. The bore looks terrible, but it shoots mil-surplus ammo fine.
Good luck, and keep asking questions and sharing what you find!
Well due to the cloud cover although still hot and humid, I just had to cast a few of the RCBS 10mm 200gr, Turncated Cone Semi Wad Cutter, Belvel Base bullets fro the new mould. Weights ranged from 207.4 to 209.2 grains with wheel weight alloy.
The adverage and most were 208.2 grains...Bullet length is 0.7135", this is longer than the Hornady 200XTP which is 0.680".
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j441/_The_Shadow/Speer200_10mm.jpg)
Now these are headed for the STAR sizer/lubricator and then the press for loading! :D
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 14 2012 08:49:16 AM MDT
Quote from: REDLINE on July 13 2012 06:29:13 PM MDT
If you don't mind, I'ld be curious to hear more about "harder" usually not being better.
Also, for a cast 170-180 grain and an expected velocity of 1300fps at a minimum, what Brinell hardness would you suggest?
Shadow mentioned it. Fit. FIT. FIT.
Most shooters who have leading issues, probably 90-95%, it is becuase they haven't slugged the barrel and found cast bullets a that are .001" to .002" over actual groove diameter. And they are running hard bullets that won't obturate (elastic deformation) and fill the last .001" to fit the bore. They get hot gas (plasma) blowby, which liquifies the lead and boom, terrible leading.
The remainder have odd ball issues. Revolvers with tight cylinder throats and large bores or tight lead and loose bore. Or a crimp die that is aggressive (Lee Factory Crimp) or out of adjustment. These scenarios take a bullet that may start the right size, and make it smaller before it gets to the rifling.
Finally, velocity. It really doesn't matter, except as an indicator of pressure. You need to keep the peak pressure below the plastic deformation limit for the hardness of the alloy you are using. I can push softer alloys like air cooled WW far faster in a rifle barrel than in a pistol, becuase I don't need the same peak pressure when I have an additional 22" of barrel I can accelerate the bullet.
I run all my cast bullets harder than needed for my applications. I shoot most auto-loaders. CZ clones, 1911's, M1 Garands, CETME (G3 Clone). For the rough ride the bullet nose gets making it to the chamber I like a bullet with a BHN of about 22-24. I cast from isotope lead (http://fellingfamily.net/isolead/) + and additional 1% tin. Water dropped from the mold these test after 1 week about 26-28 and after 1 year about 22-24. Usually I will cast a bunch up and then use them for several years. The 175 SWC I am loading now I probably cast 2-3 years ago. Water dropping also means I don't burn my fingers when I decide I have to look at one right now! They do have to be dried well before lubing.
I have run this alloy air-cooled in all my 10mm loads. Air cooled it is about 11-12 BHN.
I had leading a little when I first started casting. I hadn't slugged my guns (see paragraph 2). The loads that were below max would lead, just a little. Those at max didn't. At max I was developing enough pressure to reach elastic deformation, which sealed the bore. Below max, I wasn't and I got leading.
I finally slugged the two Witnesses. Both were about .4005" My bullets were sized to .401", only .0005". Honed out the sizing die to .402" and leading went away.
For more reading, check out threads at the cast boolits forum (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/) and the [urlhttp://www.lasc.us/castbulletnotes.htm]LASC cast bullets section[/url]. Probably in reverse order (lasc first).
More than anything, after you read up as LASC, listen to your gun. Better in general to start to soft, make sure you have fit, and increase hardness than the other way. Just like some guns won't shoot tight groups with jacketed bullets no matter what, some guns just don't like lead. I haven't encountered one yet, but have read of guys who have. I kinda suspect my son's Mosin won't. The bore looks terrible, but it shoots mil-surplus ammo fine.
Good luck, and keep asking questions and sharing what you find!
Thanks. That really helps put
why/why-not and
if/when to go with greater or lesser hardness into perspective.
My pleasure. But remember, you heard it on the internet for free. And my wife reminds me all the time I am full of BS. :P
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 14 2012 10:18:28 PM MDT
My pleasure. But remember, you heard it on the internet for free. And my wife reminds me all the time I am full of BS. :P
I'll keep that in mind. :-\
On a side thought, I know it has been said lead and the human body don't play well together. So, not that I think anyone casting bullets is drinking lead like koolaid, but is their much to worry about in the way of health risks, or is that easily overcome? No big deal at all, or a PITA?
Quote from: REDLINE on July 15 2012 11:53:54 PM MDT
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 14 2012 10:18:28 PM MDT
My pleasure. But remember, you heard it on the internet for free. And my wife reminds me all the time I am full of BS. :P
I'll keep that in mind. :-\
On a side thought, I know it has been said lead and the human body don't play well together. So, not that I think anyone casting bullets is drinking lead like koolaid, but is their much to worry about in the way of health risks, or is that easily overcome? No big deal at all, or a PITA?
Lead is dangerous, and can be lethal (I'm sure you've heard of lead poisoning), but not just because of the lead. When casting, we are dealing with relatively low temps, only slightly above melting temp, about 700
There are health concerns if the lead gets into your system. It stays and builds up over time.
But lead doesn't get into out bodies easily, and lead oxide is what is readily absorbed. This is why paint is so bad. It doesn't have elemental lead, it has oxidized lead. Worse, kids eat paint chips and adults sand it off. Eating and inhaling lead oxide are quick ways to get big doses.
For casting there are really simple rules that will keep you save. Don't eat, drink or smoke while dealing with lead - casting, loading and shooting. Wash your hands good as soon as you are done. Have good ventilation where casting.
Many of the guys over at the cast boolits forum get tested. It is just a check box on the form when they do the rest of your blood workups. Those that are high usually trace it back not to casting but to shooting inside with poor ventilation, or breathing the dust that comes from tumbler media. Older primers depended heavily on lead azide and tumbling brass with spent primers put lots of lead dust in the tumbling media. Then when separating media and brass it gets inhaled. Only one or two traced high lead back to casting, and then they had hygiene issues, eg eating, drinking or (usually) smoking while casting or loading lead bullets.
I do where a respirator mask when I am refining scrap lead into ingots (called smelting but isn't really). The scrap lead has paint, oils, dirt and other crud on it that generates a lot of smoke while it burns off. This is done in a dutch oven on a turkey fryer outside. But smoke follows beauty so I am always downwind it seems ;D
When casting I don't where the mask, but I keep two doors open in my garage so I have a cross breeze.
And, finally, water and melted lead don't mix. Results in a visit from the tinsel fairy. And you don't have to have water present. On a humid day just putting a piece of room temp lead in a hot pot can be bad news because microscopic amounts or water condense on the surface of the cold lead and then get carried under the surface of the melt. There is a big bang and 700
I shoot lead also and my bullet of choice is the Laser Cast 180 gr TC wadcutter. Never had it lead up my Delta Elite with reasonable loads.
I only work outside while smelting, fluxing and cleaning making ingots.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j441/_The_Shadow/IMG_0355.jpg)
I also cast outside under my porch, but with the ingots being clean there is not much to worry about.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j441/_The_Shadow/IMG_0400.jpg)
I'm a caster as well! I have been doing it for over thirty years! LONGER if you count the Duck decoy and fishing weights!! LOL
As a rule I do all my casting in the early spring when I can sit in garage (All doors open and its NOT connected to the house) in a sweat shirt. I keep them in coffee cans and size and lube as needed thru out the year. Just last week end my fishing buddie proclaimed we are getting lo on weights... As suggested I never trun down lead!! The "junk" dirty stuff is relegated to fishing weights. SO I fired up the pot and we cast about 30#s of 2-12OZ weights. ;)
Most of my casting in recient years has been pure lead BP plains bullets for my BP rifles and 325 WFN GC 454 bullets for my hunting 45 Colts. I did have a couple year foray with the 500 S&W and bought a Lee 440G WFN mold to try. Not aweful for under 20$! (I am NO Lee fan)
I just bought a two cavity Lyman 200TC mold. SO I'll be doing some more casting pretty soon...
CW
That Lyman 200TC is the one I should have bought, but the Speer was on clearance and also with a rebate for $10.
I cast for various 30 cal, 9mm, 38/357, 10mm/40, 44, 45 and several muzzle loader types, oh yea sling shot too!
I also cast several different types of duck decoy weights, fishing weights, egg sinkers, sliding worm heads and jigs with hooks too.
It is a very rewarding hobby to be able to supply your own needs... ;D
Well after a long day of cutting grass at my mom's place, after I got cleaned up, I sat at the bench an loaded some of my Speer 200 gr Cast TCBB SWC over 9.8 grains of my favorite powder Blue Dot seated to 1.26" with Remington 2 1/2 LP's.
These bullets are longer than the 200 XTP's so I adjusted the powder down 0.7 grains.
I'll try to get out and do some testing depending on the weather and what ever else comes along! :-[
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 16 2012 06:24:32 AM MDT
There are health concerns if the lead gets into your system. It stays and builds up over time.
But lead doesn't get into out bodies easily, and lead oxide is what is readily absorbed. This is why paint is so bad. It doesn't have elemental lead, it has oxidized lead. Worse, kids eat paint chips and adults sand it off. Eating and inhaling lead oxide are quick ways to get big doses.
For casting there are really simple rules that will keep you save. Don't eat, drink or smoke while dealing with lead - casting, loading and shooting. Wash your hands good as soon as you are done. Have good ventilation where casting.
Many of the guys over at the cast boolits forum get tested. It is just a check box on the form when they do the rest of your blood workups. Those that are high usually trace it back not to casting but to shooting inside with poor ventilation, or breathing the dust that comes from tumbler media. Older primers depended heavily on lead azide and tumbling brass with spent primers put lots of lead dust in the tumbling media. Then when separating media and brass it gets inhaled. Only one or two traced high lead back to casting, and then they had hygiene issues, eg eating, drinking or (usually) smoking while casting or loading lead bullets.
I do where a respirator mask when I am refining scrap lead into ingots (called smelting but isn't really). The scrap lead has paint, oils, dirt and other crud on it that generates a lot of smoke while it burns off. This is done in a dutch oven on a turkey fryer outside. But smoke follows beauty so I am always downwind it seems ;D
When casting I don't where the mask, but I keep two doors open in my garage so I have a cross breeze.
And, finally, water and melted lead don't mix. Results in a visit from the tinsel fairy. And you don't have to have water present. On a humid day just putting a piece of room temp lead in a hot pot can be bad news because microscopic amounts or water condense on the surface of the cold lead and then get carried under the surface of the melt. There is a big bang and 700
I learned more than a couple things there! Thanks for a thorough response. Helped put things into perspective too. Didn't know about water and hot lead leading to serious health risk potential. Reminds of what can happen if you put river rock too close to the camp fire if there's any moisture left in it. BOOM! :o
Quote from: The_Shadow on July 17 2012 10:08:20 PM MDT
Well after a long day of cutting grass at my mom's place, after I got cleaned up, I sat at the bench an loaded some of my Speer 200 gr Cast TCBB SWC over 9.8 grains of my favorite powder Blue Dot seated to 1.26" with Remington 2 1/2 LP's.
These bullets are longer than the 200 XTP's so I adjusted the powder down 0.7 grains.
I'll try to get out and do some testing depending on the weather and what ever else comes along! :-[
I almost never, if ever, hear anyone talking about loading with the Remington primers. Any general thoughts on them overall or compared to other brands?
Remington primers are good, very good in fact. Usually more expensive, but a premium.
Yeah, one little drop of water will clear your pot, and you get a visit from the tinsel fairy. Wheel weights can be dangerous if dropped right in. Moisture accumulates between the steel clip and the lead if given a chance. During the summer, lay them out in the sun for a while. During winter, maybe use the toaster oven on low to dry them. Always lower new lead into the pot very slowly, giving the moisture a chance to steam off at the surface. If you don't, what happens, happens so fast, you'll be looking around for some wise guy.....If you get the chance to look (wear eye protection).
Quote from: DM1906 on July 18 2012 12:43:10 AM MDT
Remington primers are good, very good in fact. Usually more expensive, but a premium.
Is it a consistency thing?
Quote from: REDLINE on July 18 2012 12:53:07 AM MDT
Quote from: DM1906 on July 18 2012 12:43:10 AM MDT
Remington primers are good, very good in fact. Usually more expensive, but a premium.
Is it a consistency thing?
Yes. I usually use CCI, but will snag Remington if the price is right, every time. It isn't often I see them at the LGS. CCI are less powerful compared to some (tested with primer-fired bullets on the chrono), but are the most consistent. Win. and Fed. are good, but I've seen inconsistent results them. Federal magnums are premium, for mags. Old Winchester (WW label) were as good as it got. Worse since they stopped nickel plating. Rifle primers are a little different, but CCI is still the standard, with Remington a close second.
Might have to pick up some of them Remington primers as I continue to get set up for reloading.
Quote from: REDLINE on July 18 2012 01:30:24 AM MDT
Might have to pick up some of them Remington primers as I continue to get set up for reloading.
I have been using Remington primers for many years too! Its THE only primer I will use for my 357 maximum loads and I prefer the LRMag primer to others as well. Used in my 7Rem&300H&H maggies.
CW
In terms of large pistol primers, do the Remington standard and Magnum offerings seem to be a bit hotter or mellower than others like CCI and Federal that have large pistol primer offerings in both standard and magnum?
Quote from: REDLINE on July 23 2012 03:16:54 AM MDT
In terms of large pistol primers, do the Remington standard and Magnum offerings seem to be a bit hotter or mellower than others like CCI and Federal that have large pistol primer offerings in both standard and magnum?
I do not notice them being any "hotter"...CCI is your choice if this is needed. The Cup of the Remington's tends to be stronger/tougher. While CCI esp the white box, military grade, are harder. I have used many different primers, I like CCI BR primers, Remington std and BR primers and Federal BR primers best.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/My%20loading%20room/bb43935d.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/My%20loading%20room/23cfdb66.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/My%20loading%20room/4861e201.jpg)
CW
Dang! :o Can't wait till my primer stash looks like that!
Quote from: REDLINE on July 23 2012 04:06:30 AM MDT
Dang! :o Can't wait till my primer stash looks like that!
LOL, I "stocked up" a couple months be for obummer took office... ;)
Those are full bricks, these are loose or opened bricks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/My%20loading%20room/ec1493a2.jpg)
CW
The Remingtons I snagged were purchased by a fellow locally before "O" took office, he decided to quit loading large pistol, so he sold them, and I purchased them...yes Remington primers are good to go! They were kept in Zip-loc bags and appear to still be fresh! LOL :D
I know this thread seems to have slowed down over a week ago, but I just joined, so...
I'm a caster. I only have two 10mm moulds, but they have been sufficient so far. I have a 4-cav H&G 315, which is a 200 grain TC (although they run around 208 or so from WWs) and the RCBS .40-180CM, which was meant for the .38-40 and casts about 185 from WWs. I got that one with the plan of it doing double duty in 10mm and my .38-40 New Service, which it does.
Neither design is without problems.
The H&G casts beautifully (shocker, I know) but those are some long bullets. I thought of that mould when I saw pics of The Shadow's loooong RCBS 200 SWC earlier in the thread. I have trouble with that 315 bulging thicker cases so they don't chamber in my Delta Elite.
The RCBS has that RCBS mould fault- it's only a two cavity. Other than that, I like the shape, with a big wide flat meplat, which is different from RCBS's drawings make it look.
I swapped another caster some bullets from my H&G for some Lee 175 TCs. That's the only three cast bullets I've used in 10mm.
I'd like to try the RCBS 170 SWC or the Saeco 045 (also a 170 SWC). The thing is, I'd like to use the SWCs in IDPA and that calls for more bullets than I'd like to make from a two-cav mould. That makes it hard to go with the RCBS. The Saeco is made in 3- and 4-cavity, but... well, I've never even heard of anyone using that Saeco mould, so I hate risking over $150 on a mould that I know nothing about, even from others using it.
Come to think of it, I don't know if I've heard of anyone using any Saeco .40/10mm mould.
Anyone?
Never used a Saeco 10mm mold myself.
That Lee 175 TC mold is a good one, especially once you ream out the bevel base to make them plain base (mine drop about 180gr this way). $40 for the Lee 6 cavity in one of these is pretty hard to beat; I'd recommend getting one if you haven't already, that would be the ticket for IDPA.
You're right about that 200 TC being a long bullet. Too long to be really good in the 10mm IMO.
The price of Saeco molds has always made Lee's custom 6 cavity look good to me. We have discussed doing a group by on a 200 grain 6 cavity mold to spread around the cost of the set-up charge.
I thought NOE cataloged a 6 cavity 200 grain WFN in 10mm, but it isn't on the site at this time.
I have a Mountain Mold 205 grain WFN that I do like, but again, only two cavities. Spend a lot of time at the pot for only a small pile of bullets.
I have the Lee 6 cavity 175 gr SWC TL mold as well. It was my first. I have cast a bunch of bullets with that mold. My Para conversion won't feed them though if the COL gets over 1.250". I have to load them to 1.245" and check them carefully if I want 100% reliability with them.
Last week I ordered a Aluminum 5 cavity- .402-200gr WFNPB (model # 200C) mould from accurate molds ($ 149). I should have it in about 2 weeks now. When it gets here I will cast up 50 extra and send some to sqlbullet to test in his guns if that sounds good to sqlbullet (I will PM you).
The Lee 175 TC will not consistently cycle in my STI or Caspian 10MM 's, even at the shortest OAL of 1.245".
In my G20SF it will run at 1.245" OAL and shoots pretty good at 15 yards at about 1100 fps, but its a Glock it should cycle anything.
Sean
Quote from: sqlbullet on August 06 2012 07:55:42 AM MDT
I have the Lee 6 cavity 175 gr SWC TL mold as well.
Just for clarification, the mold I was recommending above is not the tumble lube version. I'm using the TC bullet with the single lube groove, and the bevel base removed. I've pushed them to 1400 fps with plain base gas checks with good results and no leading, and 1500 fps in a carbine.
Quote from: 475/480 on August 06 2012 12:23:43 PM MDT
Last week I ordered a Aluminum 5 cavity- .402-200gr WFNPB (model # 200G) mould from accurate molds ($ 149).
Did you order the 41-200G and spec it at .402" and plain base, or did you mean the 40-200C, with two lube grooves? I'd be interested in trying some of those, if you want to swap some bullets. I have a very short 220gr WFN Mountain Mold, and a bunch of 220gr WFN .41's that size down to .401" real well.
Did you order the 41-200G and spec it at .402" and plain base, or did you mean the 40-200C, with two lube grooves? I'd be interested in trying some of those, if you want to swap some bullets. I have a very short 220gr WFN Mountain Mold, and a bunch of 220gr WFN .41's that size down to .401" real well.
[/quote]
The 40-200C w/2 lube grooves and spec'd at .402 and yes the Lee 6 cavity I have is the 175 TCBB single lube groove version. When the mould comes in I will get you some.
Sean
Barry in IN, I have a Saeco two cavity mould for 44Mag which is a TC design at it doesn't cast very well. Hard to get clean sharp edges... it could be the mix & temp but I try it from time to time.
What are the length of the bullets from the H&G 315 mold? The Speer SWC 200's are 0.7135" and so far I don't get case bulges with those I have tried.
Just a observation...
I bought one 6 cav mould once... I never was satisfied with bullet quality, Keeping temps constant, filling out the moulds... I found it annoying and sold it off. Now I only buy one or two cavity moulds.
Any simular problems?
CW
Quote from: cwlongshot on August 06 2012 04:06:08 PM MDT
Just a observation...
I bought one 6 cav mould once... I never was satisfied with bullet quality, Keeping temps constant, filling out the moulds... I found it annoying and sold it off. Now I only buy one or two cavity moulds.
Any simular problems?
CW
No, just the opposite. Lee's 6 cavity molds are much better quality than their 2-cavity, and most of mine are as good or better than my Lyman and RCBS molds. Temp and mold fillout has not been an issue; I normally get good bullets by the 2nd or 3rd cast with my 6-cavity Lee molds.
Let me guess though - you probably ladle pour, and don't smoke your molds?
Quote from: Yondering on August 06 2012 04:21:08 PM MDT
Quote from: cwlongshot on August 06 2012 04:06:08 PM MDT
Just a observation...
I bought one 6 cav mould once... I never was satisfied with bullet quality, Keeping temps constant, filling out the moulds... I found it annoying and sold it off. Now I only buy one or two cavity moulds.
Any simular problems?
CW
No, just the opposite. Lee's 6 cavity molds are much better quality than their 2-cavity, and most of mine are as good or better than my Lyman and RCBS molds. Temp and mold fillout has not been an issue; I normally get good bullets by the 2nd or 3rd cast with my 6-cavity Lee molds.
Let me guess though - you probably ladle pour, and don't smoke your molds?
Nope. ;)
Lee bottom pour 10# pot. I rarely need to smoke the mould.
I haven't owned a Lee 6 cav but I do have a Lee 2 cav .50 cal mould thats been a good performer. Most of my moulds are Lyman but I have a old Gibbs I think... 525G Spitzer 459 single cav. and a H&G 200 SWC 452
CW
I too have found the six cavity molds from Lee to be far superior. I don't smoke them either. But I do heat them extra hot. I find best results come from my lee molds when I heat them to unusably frosty for the first few bullets and then let them cool to nice shiny/barely frosty.
When I try to heat them by casting the wrinkles just never seem to stop.
A brisk cadence is needed as well, especially if you are casting in an unheated garage in the winter.
I am shooting two RCBS molds, or the bullets from them...........RCBS 40/180 which weighs 191 grains and the 38/40 180 grain CM which weighs 184. Either is accurate, the CM bullet may be my choice for a do all bullet. I like the meplat like BarryIN and seems to feed well. The 200 grain mold offerings seem to me to be too long for enough WC 820. Very intersted in 480/475's mold from Accurate. We need pictures when you get some cast please.
Quote from: The_Shadow on August 06 2012 02:02:09 PM MDT
Barry in IN, I have a Saeco two cavity mould for 44Mag which is a TC design at it doesn't cast very well. Hard to get clean sharp edges... it could be the mix & temp but I try it from time to time.
What are the length of the bullets from the H&G 315 mold? The Speer SWC 200's are 0.7135" and so far I don't get case bulges with those I have tried.
I have a Saeco 428 (.44 240 TC) and it has to be kept hot to make decent looking bullets. I like the shape though, because it loads slick and smooth into chambers and magazine tubes.
Edit- I was thinking about it, and realized that of the dozen or more Saeco moulds I have, only that #428 and the #301 (.30 cal 196 grain) are this picky. The others are noteworthy in that they cast fine at most temps, so I can jump right in when I'm casting something else. The 428 needs hot alloy, and the 301 needs hot alloy, a pressure fill, and maybe the right moon stage. The rest don't care as long as the alloy is liquid.
I'll measure some 315s tomorrow. We just got back from an emergency run to the vet with the new pup. I doubt it's that long, though. But then, I have to keep OAL on the short side to get them in my Delta mags, which is part of the bulging.
Quote from: Barry in IN on August 08 2012 08:19:16 PM MDT
Quote from: The_Shadow on August 06 2012 02:02:09 PM MDT
Barry in IN, I have a Saeco two cavity mould for 44Mag which is a TC design at it doesn't cast very well. Hard to get clean sharp edges... it could be the mix & temp but I try it from time to time.
What are the length of the bullets from the H&G 315 mold? The Speer SWC 200's are 0.7135" and so far I don't get case bulges with those I have tried.
I have a Saeco 428 (.44 240 TC) and it has to be kept hot to make decent looking bullets. I like the shape though, because it loads slick and smooth into chambers and magazine tubes.
Edit- I was thinking about it, and realized that of the dozen or more Saeco moulds I have, only that #428 and the #301 (.30 cal 196 grain) are this picky. The others are noteworthy in that they cast fine at most temps, so I can jump right in when I'm casting something else. The 428 needs hot alloy, and the 301 needs hot alloy, a pressure fill, and maybe the right moon stage. The rest don't care as long as the alloy is liquid.
I'll measure some 315s tomorrow. We just got back from an emergency run to the vet with the new pup. I doubt it's that long, though. But then, I have to keep OAL on the short side to get them in my Delta mags, which is part of the bulging.
Mine is a OLDER Saeco 44 Gas Check TC 245 grain, I think the number is 449 but very close to the 424, even pouring hot they are tough to fill out to the sharpest edges, I might need to add some extra linotype... :-[
Quote from: The_Shadow on August 08 2012 10:01:00 PM MDT
Quote from: Barry in IN on August 08 2012 08:19:16 PM MDT
Quote from: The_Shadow on August 06 2012 02:02:09 PM MDT
Barry in IN, I have a Saeco two cavity mould for 44Mag which is a TC design at it doesn't cast very well. Hard to get clean sharp edges... it could be the mix & temp but I try it from time to time.
What are the length of the bullets from the H&G 315 mold? The Speer SWC 200's are 0.7135" and so far I don't get case bulges with those I have tried.
I have a Saeco 428 (.44 240 TC) and it has to be kept hot to make decent looking bullets. I like the shape though, because it loads slick and smooth into chambers and magazine tubes.
Edit- I was thinking about it, and realized that of the dozen or more Saeco moulds I have, only that #428 and the #301 (.30 cal 196 grain) are this picky. The others are noteworthy in that they cast fine at most temps, so I can jump right in when I'm casting something else. The 428 needs hot alloy, and the 301 needs hot alloy, a pressure fill, and maybe the right moon stage. The rest don't care as long as the alloy is liquid.
I'll measure some 315s tomorrow. We just got back from an emergency run to the vet with the new pup. I doubt it's that long, though. But then, I have to keep OAL on the short side to get them in my Delta mags, which is part of the bulging.
Mine is a OLDER Saeco 44 Gas Check TC 245 grain, I think the number is 449 but very close to the 424, even pouring hot they are tough to fill out to the sharpest edges, I might need to add some extra linotype... :-[
Add pure tin (about 1% volume - not weight - at a time) at about 690*, and flux generously with pure paraffin (let it burn off first), then stir/dros well. More antimony (linotype) makes it more difficult with temp control and can make it over-hard. If you don't have any tin, PM me and I can send you some.
+1 on pure tin, or near pure tin. I have about 50 lbs of 95/5 tin/silver that I sweeten with. I add 4 ounces to a 20 lb pot of isotope lead, which should put me at 2% tin, 2.5% antimony and the rest lead. Casts great bullets from a 700 degree pot.
Quote from: DM1906 on August 08 2012 10:41:14 PM MDT
and flux generously with pure paraffin (let it burn off first), then stir/dros well.
Try sawdust or fine wood shavings instead of paraffin. Either way, you're trying to add carbon to the pot (burned residue from sawdust, paraffin, bullet lube, whatever), which binds with the oxidized metals. Sawdust is just more efficient at producing enough carbon. Once the sawdust is burned and mixed with the dross, use the back side of a spoon to smash/smear that against the sides of the pot, untill all the dross is gone, mixed back into the melt. Then scrape the sides of the pot to get all the black dust to the top, and discard that.
I use lots of sawdust when refining my lead. Used motor oil too.
As Yondering says, about any carbon source works well.
Quote from: sqlbullet on August 09 2012 07:58:43 AM MDT
+1 on pure tin, or near pure tin. I have about 50 lbs of 95/5 tin/silver that I sweeten with. I add 4 ounces to a 20 lb pot of isotope lead, which should put me at 2% tin, 2.5% antimony and the rest lead. Casts great bullets from a 700 degree pot.
Silver is good, but I don't toss it in the pot (on purpose). Laser-Cast brags of their use of it in their cast bullets. Good lead-free solder will usually have 3-5% silver.
I use wood chips and paper when refining raw bullet trap material. Not on purpose, but that's what they're shooting at, and the bullets drag some to the trap. I don't use wood or other non-pure organics in the pot, as they are "dirty" with by-products than can foul the alloy. Clear paraffin is about as pure as you can get. Pine pitch (dry dust or drops) also works really well.
That's the first I've ever heard of something in wood fouling a lead alloy. :-\
Quote from: Yondering on August 09 2012 08:46:57 PM MDT
That's the first I've ever heard of something in wood fouling a lead alloy. :-\
Wood contains minerals/metals. Some undesirable.
Only offering what works for me. Your metallurgy may vary.....
Quote from: siberian505 on August 08 2012 07:23:44 PM MDT
The 200 grain mold offerings seem to me to be too long for enough WC 820. Very intersted in 480/475's mold from Accurate. We need pictures when you get some cast please.
Here are the bullets from the moulds I have.
Lee 175gr TCBB,Accurate moulds 190gr LFNGC , Accurate moulds 200gr LFNPB, MM 215gr WFNGC
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x150/475480/10MMboolits003.jpg
Man, I like that 190gr LFNGC, I'd like to be able to make that up with a wide cavity Hollow Point (sort of the flying ashtray), although some guns might not feed that thing reliably! :-\
Cool picture. I really like that 2-groove 200gr. I wonder how well that would work with the top groove unlubed, and seated at 1.250" in 40 S&W brass? It looks like the mouth of the brass should line up in the middle driving band somewhere around max 10mm OAL.
I shot the 200gr LFNPB bullet this weekend in the STI ,offhand at 15 yards . Load was AA9-11.0gr and 12.0gr. I did not check the velocity but I would say 1000-1100 fps. Accuarcy was a little less than 2" at 15 yards offhand which is not bad, good enough for practice. I had no FTF with a OAL of 1.260" . I could not go any shorter because of the noselength on the bullet. I do like the nose profile on the 200gr Accurate mould bullet, it seems to help with feeding.
Sean