Picked up my M&P Thursday from the FFL and took it to the range yesterday after I cleaned and lubed it (8 points of lube).
The trigger is a little gritty at 4.75 lbs of pull, but still much better than the old hinged trigger (I replaced them with APEX flat faced triggers). Has full chamber support. It absolutely didn't not like my powder coated 175gr cast boolits (3-5" at 25 yds) and it leaded the barrel so I need to slug the barrel and figure out what the deals is with it. However, it produced under an inch group at 25yards with the Rainer plated HP bullets.
The frame is more narrow than my M&P 40 and 9mm (original M&P) at the grip and frame. I use a brass catcher on all my pistols that attaches to the picatinny rail and it would not stay attached because it's narrower. Even though I have small hands, I shoot the best with the large grip panel. I like the new grip texture and was comfortable even with full power loads. No malfunctions at all!
I'm a huge M&P fan and shoot them well, but I need to put some time in to see how I like it overall.
Thanks for the range repot TXCOONDOG, who makes your brass catcher?
Quote from: Kenk on March 26 2022 09:34:08 AM MDT
Thanks for the range repot TXCOONDOG, who makes your brass catcher?
Graco Model Mark II Case Catcher. You shape it to catch at different positions and it has saved me some money in brass. It takes some getting use to, but catches 99% once you get it adjusted to the proper ejection angle.
Thanks man!
My new 4? M&P 10mm has a slightly gritty feel in the takeup. It?s the raised portion of the trigger bar lifting the striker blocker. The trigger bar is a stamped part and that area can smooth out over time. I may take the dremel tool with a polishing wheel to mine.
I agree that this is a better trigger than the one that came in my original M&P 9 full-size. The sear was chromed with the remains of a machining swirl on one side in that gun. Apex solved that for me, too.
For the cost of these M&Ps, I can?t really complain about anything on mine. It?s still better than any G20 I?ve ever fired and better than the stock trigger in my XDM 10. My old spring type trigger pull gauge showed a little over 4lbs, so that?s pretty consistent.
Good luck with your cast bullets issue. I look forward to hearing how your barrel slugging goes.
Several things to note on my barrel and chamber:
Slugs .399" at the bore and gets very loose in the middle and near the throat. Sent a 403" slug (pure soft lead) through the chamber and (the lands start approximately 1/8" deeper than my other 10mm barrels) slugged at .401" (had to do it several times to get consistent readings) about an 1/2" into the lands and grooves than drove it back out the chamber so now I know where it's gas cutting and why.
I was shooting my FP cast bullets (forgot my .403" RN cast rounds) rounds for my G40 KKM barrel (tight tolerances) which are 401" as it has constant readings of .399" throughout the length of the barrel. In order to get the FP cast boolits to feed reliably, the OAL must be 1.255" or less with a .4210-.4215" crimp at edge of the case mouth to feed 100% during rapid firing.
The M&P chamber will accept (plunk test) a .4235" crimp at the edge of the case mouth and OAL of 1.264" before getting into the lands.
I need to order a kit to cast my chamber and throat to be 100% sure on the exact measurements.
Sounds like you've got it figured out. That initial gas cutting is roughing up your coated bullets too much for great accuracy. That would explain the leading, as well.
Thanks for posting that.