Hi
I usually use CCI 300 primers and CFE Pistol for my pet loads- want to know if it is safe to use the magnum primers, and if so, what adjustment I should make to my normal powder charge?
Thank you
Well not knowing all the details of you load you could be just fine using the CCI 350 or you could drop 1/10 or 0.1 grain...
Welcome Piie, lots of knowledge here, Enjoy!
Ken
I've been asking, since I started reloading decades ago, if magnum primers are hotter (more pressure) or simply harder (to handle more pressure). Never have I gotten a definitive answer, particularly since there are so many different brands.
I have substituted magnum for standard primers using CCI, in both large and small pistol. As Shadow wisely suggests, I did drop my powder charge a little and work back up. No real difference in 45acp or 9mm. I did notice the CCI magnum small pistol primers seemed to be harder as some didn't go off in a gun that runs flawlessly with standard CCI SPP.
I'd say go with it, but do a little work up. I'd also suggest shooting quite a few if it's "bet your life on it" ammo you're making.
I believe they are hotter based on chrono readings. I also think it depends on the powder you are using as to the results.
Thanks All for the responses so far.
I have tried this a while ago, but because I was super carefull, I reduced powder charge quite a bit. Eg, the min load is 6.7gr and the max load is 7.7gr - I used 7.0 gr of CFE Pistol with a 180gr FMJ.
What I saw was alot of powder blowback marks on my cases, and unfortunately I had a chrono malfunction at the time so I could not verify velocities.
Not sure what the blowback really means (typically, on bottleneck cases, that means a weak load that doe not expand the neck quickly enough to seal the chamber, but have no idea if this is the same with straight wall/short pistol cases...), I'm weary to try again, since I don't know if I already saw excessive pressure issues (the primers appear normal though, but again, not sure if pistols show the same tendency on primers wrt flattening when pressures are too high).
BTW - I'm shooting with a standard Glock 20 gen 4
Appreciate your inputs!
Nothing wrong with being careful, considering the hobby we have embarked on 😊
Ken
Quote from: DDRiller on March 10 2021 04:21:36 PM MST
I believe they are hotter based on chrono readings. I also think it depends on the powder you are using as to the results.
I think faster powders tend to nullify any difference between primers. I'm not disagreeing with you re chrono data. It's just that I haven't seen a substantial enough difference, with the slower powders I was using, to feel certain about it with CCI primers.
To Piie: Yes the straight walled pistol cases aren't sealing the bore completely if you have soot marks coming down the sides. Pistol primers will flatten as you reach higher pressures, but a little bit of flattening in upper end 10mm loads is kind of normal. With a careful workup, if you're chasing max velocity, you should see a little primer flattening, maybe a primer pop out, then case bulging, if you have good chamber support. If you're not using a chronograph, popping a primer out and excessive bulging is definitely time to stop. Guns vary in chamber support and lock time. You may see bulging before a primer pops out with your G20.
Good luck with it ;)
Thank you.
Perhaps I could ask the question like this as well:
What is the hottest safe loads with plated 180gr "FMJ" bullets and CFE Pistol powder that members here have been able to safely shoot from their G20's? COAL being kept to the standard.
This would give me some benchmark as to whether I should even consider working up to the published maximum with CCI 350's or does my logic have a flaw?
I don't use CFE, but I've loaded plenty of plated bullets in various calibers. You have to look at the manufacturer's rating for maximum velocity. Some like Berry's make a thick plate for 10mm loadings and a regular version better suited to 40SW.
Your risks, if exceeding the speed limit, is separation of the plating in the barrel. Poor accuracy will result. A steady diet of that will also result in small thin pieces of plating being hammered into the rifling of the barrel by the next round.
Don't write off plated bullets just because of that, though. The lead in plated bullets is typically pretty soft and they obturate well. I've gotten some really accurate loads from plated bullets. You just shouldn't hot rod them unless they're designed for the speed you're after.
Another thing to keep in mind is switching from a pistol to a pistol caliber carbine with plated bullets. You may be under the speed limit on the pistol, but the extra barrel length of the carbine can put you over.
Last I looked, RMR had 180gr fmj bulk bullets available for about the same money as plated bullets. They're actually Armscor 180gr fmj and use a brass alloy with an open bullet base. You could push those as hard as you want. I run them in my 10mm AR and have gotten around 1550fps.